Ram50

Really Cool!

First thing off DON'T LET EVERYONE TELL YOU A GLIDE WON'T WORK!!!! I have use one for 2 years and I would not run any other tranny if it was FREE! Ryan is a smart guy but I promise you that if you get with the correct company they can and will make a converter work and work well! I run a 11" and have no problems with it. I can stage and cut a light as good or better than anyone. I have issues with the motor missing but IT HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH THE CONVERTER! I will gladly give up a tenth or 5 or 6 mph if I can run the front half better. Quicktime makes a bell that will fit a 13" in for $600 so there is and has been a cheap option. I have gone as fast as others that have spent 5 to 10 times the money I have! My car will go down any track, every time. I think i'm going to build a rear eng mud dragster and put a duramax in it. I see your in WV so I hope to see you out sometime. I think it's time to try something different.
 
Why did you not just answer me in the other thread. It was a question not a poke in any way. I thought by the way it sounds every pass that it was uncoupled, at Ennis I was setting in the blechers at the 1/4 stripe, and it just sound that way to myself and all the guys that were there with me. If not, Im glad PTC is working out great for you, you have surly gone faster than I did. I fought a ridged chassis that flat didn't work, I couldn't get it down the track when I'd put a big tune up on the car. But I did have the tranny/convertor combo fiqured out 'for me' finally.

My intentions and advise on the matter has always been in the best intentions for people. I spent over 4 grand and built a killer Super Glide and all the best advised 11" units I could find back then and it was a complete failure 'for me'. I knew this site was full of unexperienced and young racers and I just was passing on expensive knowledge that I learned the hard way 'for me', and hated to see someone else try and fail at something that I tried so hard to make work.

It's known on here and it wont be mentioned again, by me. I made my first 6 second pass just a few weeks ago at over 200mph and it was a PTC 10.5" piece in a Super Glide. PTC makes a great convertor no dought. I don't know if they were around back in 06 -07 when I was building and designing my diesel stuff, but if they were I sure wish I had known of them then and give them a try as well. Just after spending so much time and money with other big name guys and their parts failing and them telling me it couldn't be done.... I believed them and agreed. Including TCI, Coan, Art Carr, Hughes, TS, etc....and a few other local shops.

Scheid, John, the Hyper Max, etc.. guys, have it fiqured out with the correct clutch like a Alk. car. Expensive and a ton more labor intensive but 'the' way to load the engine properly and maintain the torque to the wheels. I love a good convertor, their easy to stage and consistant. But just look at the Pro Mod guys for a perfect example at e.t.'s and mph on a apples to apples compairasion, look at the orig. fast clutch cars and compare them to the convertor cars, many teams stepped into the convertor deal to see what it was about only to quite and go right back to the clutch, in those cars it's unreal what they were and are leaving on the table. Just a thought and conversation piece.

Below: 'A couple post on page 2 I believe it was, for others that didn't follow what was being talked about.'

Texas Diesel Fall Nationals Oct 18th 19th, 2013 - Page 2 - Competition Diesel.Com - Bringing The BEST Together
 
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Ryan

It was not a slam on you but things have changed in the last few years. I also tried the PTC 10.5 at first, matter of fact it was 3 of them. The 10.5 would go 5500 on the brake. Then we went to a 11 and all is good. I have run in the 4.6's when it runs without missing so I would say it's working pretty good. All the others guys can have all the clutch setups they want. Look at the results this year and tell me if any of them cut a light on me. If I wanted to be dirty i'm pretty sure I could burn them down and MAKE them pull through the clutch on the line BECAUSE of the way they have to stage. There is good and bad with both. I will take my chances with the auto. I'm going to be testing a 13" soon but i'm afraid it my shake the tires and be harder to drive. I'm going to try it just because I think it will be faster but I also think it will come with it's on problems. I had 5 tenths on John at TX and if it would have run anything at all he would not have come back around me. 5 tenths on a pro tree is hard to make up. I promise I will get the miss out and it will surprise people how well a auto will work. At the TX race it was only going 4700 in the lights well under the rev limiter. Also nice job going 6's at 200 that must fill insane going that fast.
 
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 I think i'm going to build a rear eng mud dragster and put a duramax in it. I see your in WV so I hope to see you out sometime. I think it's time to try something different.

Cool. I'd love to see it happen. Still better yet, why don't ya buy up an old class 3 chassis, duramax that baby and come run with me?????

If my fore-sight was as good as my hind-site, I would have just went ahead with Hughes or ATI lockup glide. Stall as high as you want and lock it up whenever. I'm about $3,000 away from the lockup with the set-up I have now.

By the way, why does your engine miss the way it does?? I think it was your rail we watched at Schied's that missed on the top end.

The rain has set in here so we've made some progress on the project. I'll see if I can get some pics up later on. My son is moving around well now with a gimp. Surprisingly, the broken femur does not bother him as much as his knee.
 
We got the pump back and bolted it on. My son fab'd up the exhaust and we are in the process of figuring out how to mount the seats. As you can see in the pics, the passenger will have no problem staying warm on a cool day. I'm gonna wrap it plus stick some heat shield material under the floor. Yeah, its not the best, but, my turbo weight is towards the back and I didn't want to limit the exhaust flow. The floor/firewall in this area is gonna be a bear to fab.

We also threw on a set of 34.5x17x16 Hoosier slicks.

We added more triangulation and x-bracing to the cage. Most of which is not required, but, we are going to get pretty crazy lightening up the frame so a little more here and there won't hurt.

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Miss

I'm not sure what the miss is. The motor is shutting down. Guy Tripp and John Jordan (johnboy) thinks it's in the ECM. I'm going to try another one before the year is up and see. The ECM and Injector bodies are the only thing that has not been changed. I keep calling it a miss but it more than that is shuts down. Its pretty violent in the car. I going to take it to Fleeces and strap it down on the dyno also and see if we can find it. I also want to put a data logger on it so we can see more things going on. Your truck looks good, nice job.
 
I'm not sure what the miss is. The motor is shutting down. Guy Tripp and John Jordan (johnboy) thinks it's in the ECM. I'm going to try another one before the year is up and see. The ECM and Injector bodies are the only thing that has not been changed. I keep calling it a miss but it more than that is shuts down. Its pretty violent in the car. I going to take it to Fleeces and strap it down on the dyno also and see if we can find it. I also want to put a data logger on it so we can see more things going on. Your truck looks good, nice job.



it's fuel related or electronic, positive.
 
I keep calling it a miss but it more than that is shuts down.

That's sorta what we were think'n. Kinda like the speed limiter/rev limiter kicking in.

I stated earlier that I should have just gone with the lock-up glide. If anyone would be interested in the glide and converter I have now, say for around $7,000, I'd go for what I should have bought to begin with.
 
Glide

I think you would be wasting your money on a lockup. There is no way in 200' it could help very much if any at all. You may be surprised at how you won't hurt parts with a none lockup setup. Don't let everyone scare you. I think trying to lock up that quick would hurt your times. Let the converter do it's job and multiply TQ. Good luck.
 
We've made a little more progress.

This is my first attempt at a chain drive. It is a single 60 unit that will hopefully hold. The front end will see a pretty decent load when the trans brake is released and after that, should see a minimal load for the rest of the run. So, if I can get everything to live for the first 1/2 second, I should be OK. The drive sprocket is a 15 tooth sweated over the yoke and welded. The driven sprocket is an 11 tooth slid on a 1.25 inch keyed shaft. This combination makes for a .73 ratio overdrive and will ultimately result in a 1.80% over driven front end. The key is .25 inch. If the key will hold, I'm pretty confident everything else will also hold. The driven shaft in the pics is a dummy for fit up. I took an axle from the original 1/2 ton front end that was under the boy's '92 and am having it turned to the 1.25 diameter and key way'd for the sprocket attachment. This way, I'll have a very light drive yoke. My machinist is currently having trouble cutting through the hardened shell on the axle, but, I have faith he'll get it.

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One of my 'ol racing buddies runs a single 60 with a 700+ inch engine and it has lived so far. I could have built it completely inclosed, but, I felt it wasn't necessary. most of the chain drives out there are open anyway. I wanted something I could remove with minimal effort for the occasional drive into town or when drag racing.

I have much to do yet. My test drive date is slated for some time in March.

I ordered materials to build a completely sealed air shut-off. I'll get some pics up when the stuff gets here and we start on it.
 
Very Nice!

That looks killer! I like how the bottom is the adjuster for the chain. You need to make them and sell them. Lite weight and compact, awesome job.
 
Here is our attempt at a completely sealed air shut off. You will have to forgive some of the welds. I had an old piece of 1/8" plate aluminum standing in the corner of the garage and for some reason, it just didn't weld right. I think they'll hold.

We started out by welding the 5" v-band flange to the borg-warner.

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Then fab'd the air shut off.

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We were going to box in the cut section of the 6" OD tubing, but, the thing was just going to be too long for practicality.

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So, we ended up cutting most of the 6" off and welding on a holding tab.

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A little dab of silicone on the choke cable should seal it up nicely. I realize the efficiency of the air cleaner is compromised just a bit, but, I'm hoping with a K&N this large, it won't matter.
 
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...more progress today. We bent and installed the strut bars and then the front shocks.

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We then bent out the seat mount and mounted the seats. I borrowed this idea from the Bad Medicine truck of Philip Price's.

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At least when I get in it now to 'pretend race', I don't have to worry about the wood falling out!! Just about wrecked it once like this in a race against the Schied Dragster. And to think I just about had it won. LOL
 
Seats and belts are completely mounted. Rear drive shaft is in and loop is complete.

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Charge pipe is built and installed. ...had to grind a notch in the girdle to clear the 90.

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I started mounting the brake pedal and realized I need a master cylinder with remote mount tanks. !@#$$$
 
I've done some searching around and posting over on the injectables part of the forum. Some folks have given me opinions, but, I was sorta hoping for more. lol
So, since the water injection questions relate to this project, I'll post here for maybe more info.

I've looked at the haldex pump option. This thing weighs 30lbs!! So, I know it sounds a bit anal, but, to me, 30lbs is huge!

So, I've done more 'google'ing and found this.

http://www.alcohol-injection.com/en/pumps/281-300-psi-recirculation-pump.html

I know its not near the 800 psi injection of the haldex, but, how much do you actually need? I believe if you get at least 100 psi over boost pressure, and as long as you spray near the intake ports, you'll get good enough atomization.

I was originally thinking I'd run internal lines inside the intake, but, I think some good nozzles placed correctly on the intake plate will work just fine.

Please provide some input if you can help. Thanks!!
 
I did the math a while back, 1 sled puller kit = about 27 normal kits.
 
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Yep, pump is done and ready to install.

Craig broke the leg a little before 4:00PM. We got him here just after 4:30. They were taking him to surgery at 7:30PM. Around 8:00PM, they come out and tell us another trauma has come in that needs immediate attention and they are going to delay Craig's surgery +\- 3 hrs. I knee jerked and asked why they couldn't get another trauma surgeon coming? I for sure got some smoke blowed up my hiney so at the moment I'm stewing over just how important the financial department of this hospital thinks my son is. I may be way off base here, but, I believe it's all about the almighty dollar! Am I wrong?

They made the first cut at 11:00PM. We are waiting. This is considered one of the top hospitals in WV.

Yes you are wrong. No it is not a financial conspiracy or anything of the sort, although it feels like it for the patient and family at the time, it's called triaging, every hospital does it, priorizing patients based on the seriousness of injury and degree to which it is life threatning, your son's injuries may well have bumped someone else back on the list, some surgeries can wait some can't, simple as that.
 
Yes you are wrong. No it is not a financial conspiracy or anything of the sort, although it feels like it for the patient and family at the time, it's called triaging, every hospital does it, priorizing patients based on the seriousness of injury and degree to which it is life threatning, your son's injuries may well have bumped someone else back on the list, some surgeries can wait some can't, simple as that.

Yep. I felt like an idiot for saying that crap. It just wasn't a good time for any of us and my apologies go out to the little nurse who had to deal with me.

I did the math a while back, 1 sled puller kit = about 27 normal kits.

:lolly: That's what I was hoping to hear.:Cheer:
 
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