Real world benefits from cam swap..

Look, it's the one hit wonder! :hehe: Makes a pass, builds a new motor! :D Had to lol
 
Hey dipstick................... That picture is in the burnout box at Cecil County Dragway and my truck is over 900 hp on fuel
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When it runs and is not being towed behind a Powerstroke Equipped Tow Truck which runs fine and your not getting a ride home in a Dodge.....LOL

Sorry Greg...Had to do it.....LOL
 
B-swope- It looks to me like some larger injectors would take full advantage of the extra air that you have. You have more air across the entire range now. When your extra air runs out of extra fuel to burn, the dyno numbers start to overlap your pre-cam numbers. I assume this is where you would have cleared up all of the smoke, but you would have to verify with Lloyd. I have seen this on mild setups when people only have small amounts of extra fuel they see directly related peak hp gains even if they gain large amounts of power on the initial hp ramp at lower rpms. I think if you were to run larger injectors before the cam swap it is possible that the numbers would have been higher across the entire rpm range. If you look at the dyno sheets I posted earlier, that truck was WAY overfueled. This made it easier to see any gain in airflow because there was more than enough extra fuel at all rpms. Gains in airflow were directly related to more horsepower in this instance, regardless of the rpm.

Zach
 
Hammer, What valve springs and retainers are you running?..Zach
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Zach...
I am running a full ported head cut for oversize valves with double springs and titanium retainers/keepers.The push rods are Manton's and the rockers on it now are a set of stock rockers.The aftermarket units when they failed were sent back to be checked and repaired.They are here and have been on my shelf for about a year as I do not want to have them fail again in a short time(failed in less than 10,000 street miles last time).

The truck drives very well and pulls OK up to about 2700 where it lays an egg and dies.I have had many cams in my life nose over on various combinations but never one which lays down like this one.I had other issues which was why it did not really show itself until lately as we have been working on the tune and trying to expose the problem........Andy
 
With the larger valves, more spring pressure is needed to control float, do you know where your seat pressure is. Also it sounds as if you have a pretty good flowing head. Have you had it flowed? And if you have, does your cam have enough lift to take full advantage of it? Don't want to snoop, just wondering what gives on your setup. Something is definitely going on there.

Zach
 
My truck doesn't nose over at all up to 3500rpm. Before you could feel it die about 2700. Stock head with hamilton springs and pushrods and cam.
 
I think Twins would be best, but you dont want to hear that. A cam will broaden your power band some, but not raise peak power very much. It's not gonna make a night & day difference with that single turbo like adding a chip to a stock truck. And just like Greg said all these guys saying, Quicker spool, lower EGT's, more power are inflaming their results cause they just spent all that money and believe it has to be way better. They help some just not as much as alot of people rave.
 
I hpoe mine helps. Too bad I'm changing so much at once and I cant get before and after dyno #'s.
 
2007 5.9 said:
Again...I am not going to be towing at 5500ft with 700hp on tap....I can de-tune when I need to. What I want is a set-up that can make 700hp at sea level and can be de-tuned for towing at elevation.
.
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This is where your reasoning is flawed:poke:

I understand you will "de-tune" it to tow with. The problem is you will still have to spool a large enough turbo capable of 700 hp REGARDLESS of how you have it tuned. Taking fuel away will only hurt that response!

This is why people are recommending twins to you for your desired application:poke: You will have the capable air flow of the large primary for 700 hp with the off idle and medium throttle response of the tighter secondary.

Just my opinion but it seems by your posts that you only want to hear the answers you are looking for and that is "I want a cam......which one should I get?" :confused:
 
700 hp and towing maybe should get triples. I made 710 with minimal smoke it spools very fast and pulls great.
 
The guys are right, a cam will make more horsepower and broaden the curves but will not give the same cooling that twins will give.

Zach
 
Dockboy said:
This is where your reasoning is flawed:poke:

I understand you will "de-tune" it to tow with. The problem is you will still have to spool a large enough turbo capable of 700 hp REGARDLESS of how you have it tuned. Taking fuel away will only hurt that response!

This is why people are recommending twins to you for your desired application:poke: You will have the capable air flow of the large primary for 700 hp with the off idle and medium throttle response of the tighter secondary.

Just my opinion but it seems by your posts that you only want to hear the answers you are looking for and that is "I want a cam......which one should I get?" :confused:
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Thanks for your input Greg, but the title of this thread is Real world results of cam swap...not weather or not I need twins or not.

Hamilton Cams said:
The guys are right, a cam will make more horsepower and broaden the curves but will not give the same cooling that twins will give.

Zach
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Thanks for the reasponse Zach...I will be calling you in the next week or so to discuss options.
 
Les isn't asking whether he should get a cam, or get twins. We all know that twins are going to out perform a single. However,he doesn't want to run twins. 1 pump, 1 turbo, 700hp, fuel only-- It's as easy as that.

Taking away fuel doesn't always make spool up worse. If you're overfueled on the bottom end, taking fuel away will help spool up.

Anything other than a stock truck is going to compromise spool up, or smoke output if attempting to tow at 7,000+ ft. elevations.

Les,
with a second gen manifold, your super b special, a good pressure box, and mild injectors, you're going to be really close to 700 hp. Dial back the smarty, and go easy on the pedal, and light towing will be alright. Will it be ideal for towing? no. But it'll be doable.

get that cam in already.
 
Hamilton Cams said:
B-swope- It looks to me like some larger injectors would take full advantage of the extra air that you have. You have more air across the entire range now. When your extra air runs out of extra fuel to burn, the dyno numbers start to overlap your pre-cam numbers. I assume this is where you would have cleared up all of the smoke, but you would have to verify with Lloyd. I have seen this on mild setups when people only have small amounts of extra fuel they see directly related peak hp gains even if they gain large amounts of power on the initial hp ramp at lower rpms. I think if you were to run larger injectors before the cam swap it is possible that the numbers would have been higher across the entire rpm range. If you look at the dyno sheets I posted earlier, that truck was WAY overfueled. This made it easier to see any gain in airflow because there was more than enough extra fuel at all rpms. Gains in airflow were directly related to more horsepower in this instance, regardless of the rpm.

Zach
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Thanks for the info Zack!! I kinda didnt expect higher HP #'s, I did think my TQ was alittle low but Lloyd explained that to me... pretty much I need more fuel...:doh:

I did the cam because I couldnt pass up the 1/2 off deal you did and Lloyd gave me a HELL of a deal on the install, so I dont feel in any way my money was wasted... I cant thank the both of you enough!!!
After all I do plan for a S47? something under this 64 in the future....:rockwoot:
 
2007 5.9 said:
Thanks for your input Greg, but the title of this thread is Real world results of cam swap...not weather or not I need twins or not.



Thanks for the reasponse Zach...I will be calling you in the next week or so to discuss options.
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For the cost of the cam and the mods they help support I would buy a cam again. I do daily drive mine and I like the quicker spooling, better mileage, and broader powerband I got from mine. By the way mine from diesel pros works great and I do recommend it to anybody.
 
I have been following this thread for a few days now and there is some good info here..... basically a good cam will provide some benefits. The problem is what and how do you define a good cam? Using SOP meters doesn't give accurate data. I have done many mods that I swore made gains only to dyno a truck and learn otherwise. Also as some have posted installing a not so good cam is actually detrimental!

Lloyd provided a dyno chart that pretty much sums up a cam install. Most cams produce little if any HP unless the truck is way overfueled, and even then at best one can expect to see in the neighborhood of 20 RWHP gain. What can be gained is a broader power range which results in a more powerful feeling truck. Some report better mileage but at best this is normally around 1 mpg. Egt reduction has been discussed but where did this heat go? Depending on the grind and the engines ability to flow any possible increase in air it may still be in the engine! So in essence one is actually increasing the temps inside the cylinder thus potentially increasing the chance for engine damage due to heat.

In my opinion a cam can be a worthwhile install if done for the right reasons.... One shouldn't expect huge gains but rather a slightly better running truck if the correct cam is installed.

Doug
 
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