Single pump, SB 66 and 120's = 918/2000 !!!!!

Floor-Its dyno is a load cell dyno. I dont like dynos either. But i have been on a few and allways had lower than expected numbers. That aside i have seen alot of dyno runs that were horsepower consistant. I have no idea about the original posters number but i do have some questions.
Here is a video of Floor-Its dyno in action with my brothers truck if people want to see the dyno.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FIdZmW5S81E

Dunbars dyno, (all inertia dynos really) i think I was told the inertia wheels are equal to 6k lbs of rolling force. Is this true? If it is then that would explain why everytime i have dynoed, the truck never built the boost numbers it does on the street because it is not as big a load. Plus the operators will ride the brakes to help spool bigger turbos. Isnt that stopping power from going to the wheels? One guy blew my rear wheel cylindars out he was riding the brakes so hard only to tell me i was overfueld and that is why i only made 350 hp.

Then on load cell dynos, i watched 10 trucks dyno then it was my buddies turn. He runs a 13mm pump and a standard s475 turbo. The could not get it to light in 5th with his 6 speed. Then they went to 6th gear and it would light but not until about 4k rpms so they went in on the computer and increased the load to 100%. Now how does that give the previous 10 trucks an honest number? Isnt that the point of a load down dyno to have a outside force drag the truck down?

Tim
 
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pwerwagn said:
Now you are contradicting the crap outta yourself bro. You said the reason his truck made too much hp was because he ran 6th gear...higher gear, taller than 5th. Now you are saying a car with 4.10's will make more hp than a car with 3.73's, lower gear?

I get it now. Makes complete sense. :hehe:
Click to expand...

I apologize for the confusion, my statement was to show how a car that accelerates harder would drive the mass of the drum quicker therefor making more hp on a dynojet. Changing your rear gears to a lower gear would only increase the accelerating force so the ratio your transmission is in on that particular dyno run would still make a diff and should be 1:1.

So here's the real answer, KNOW WHAT DYNO YOUR ON!!! make sure the operator also knows what gear for you to run, and if it's a load cell you can dyno in any gear your heart desires.
 
TMONEYDIESEL said:
I apologize for the confusion, my statement was to show how a car that accelerates harder would drive the mass of the drum quicker therefor making more hp on a dynojet. Changing your rear gears to a lower gear would only increase the accelerating force so the ratio your transmission is in on that particular dyno run would still make a diff and should be 1:1.

So here's the real answer, KNOW WHAT DYNO YOUR ON!!! make sure the operator also knows what gear for you to run, and if it's a load cell you can dyno in any gear your heart desires.
Click to expand...

Hey, it's ok. You got punked. Let it go man. :hehe:
 
haha guys real funny you got the point ok how about tacos with white queso
 
idk too much about all of this, but i have always
been told ( and always have ) dynoed 1:1, in 5th
gear. please dont ban me.
 
smoke machine said:
181/210 on 107 lsa. valves set to 10 intake 15 exhaust
Click to expand...

When i had my 181/210 I tried a few different lash setting on the dyno.
10&15 had a bit faster spool up and like 2-3 hp gain but was also hotter than 10&20. I'd rather have the colder temps than 2-3 hp
 
SCHOOL BUS said:
When i had my 181/210 I tried a few different lash setting on the dyno.
10&15 had a bit faster spool up and like 2-3 hp gain but was also hotter than 10&20. I'd rather have the colder temps than 2-3 hp
Click to expand...

That makes little to no sense at all. The cooler temps part, that is...

A .020" lash vs a .015" lash is a looser lash, which translates to less valve opening in both duration and lift. Less duration/lift will generally translate to hotter temps due to the increased backpressure.

A .015 lash adjustment would promote more flow due to increased lift and duration, but would cause a lower exhaust pulse velocity which would potentially hurt initial spool.

It's the same concept as a split pattern cam (one that is made for turbo vehicles). They typically utilize a shorter duration exhaust lobe to cause a higher exhaust pulse velocity, which promotes spool up time, but at the sacrifice of top end flow.

Are you sure you didn't get the two adjustments confused?
 
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No, I worded it right. Even noted it in my cam install on here a few years back.
-Boostjunky- said:
That makes little to no sense at all. The cooler temps part, that is...

A .020" lash vs a .015" lash is a looser lash, which translates to less valve opening in both duration and lift. Less duration/lift will generally translate to hotter temps due to the increased backpressure.

A .015 lash adjustment would promote more flow due to increased lift and duration, but would cause a lower exhaust pulse velocity which would potentially hurt initial spool.

It's the same concept as a split pattern cam (one that is made for turbo vehicles). They typically utilize a shorter duration exhaust lobe to cause a higher exhaust pulse velocity, which promotes spool up time, but at the sacrifice of top end flow.

Are you sure you didn't get the two adjustments confused?
Click to expand...
 
hotter egt's = less heat in the cylinder/piston. I'd rather have higher egt's before a melted piston...
 
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