Stalls in gear after DV swap

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zsk7687

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Just installed a set of Weston's 7mm DV's, and after install my idle dropped considerably. Raised the idle back to ~900 in park, but it drops well below 500 when put in gear and stalls. I've searched around and figure my gsk will be my next adjustment, but have seen some say tighten and others say loosen. So do I tighten a couple clicks, or back it off?

Also on a side note, can anyone explain to me why the different DV's caused such a drastic drop in idle?
 
Loosen the governor springs and then raise the idle to desired rpm. You might have to go 3-4 clicks looser to gain a steady idle if your particular setup is finicky.
 
I have not tried messing with the governor since installing the 7mm delivery valves with a fully sealing shoulder (which I assume is what you have) but can tell you in my truck the difference of idle in neutral to idle in drive is 1100/650. This difference did not show up until trying the 7mm delivery valves with fully sealing shoulders. There is a thread discussing the possibility of this being a trait of the smaller diameter delivery valve when using a fully sealing shoulder. I don't have this issue with the competition versions which don't have a fully sealing shoulder nor any 8mm delivery valve I have run through various pumps and I've tried nearly all popular combinations.

qualifier: Fully sealing means extremely tight tolerance between shoulder and seat where as the competition style has a looser tolerance due to the entire length of the shoulder being turned down to decrease shoulder diameter.

Given the new charger I just put on i'm going to go back to comp style this evening and not fool with the fully sealing style any more at the moment. Let us know if you try the above mentioned governor changes and if they reduce the difference from neutral/drive idle.

The different delivery valves act differently at different areas of rack travel. The fully sealing style really limit low rack fueling it appears which is also why they are hard to make idle correctly (with the fully sealing shoulder). Most of Weston's latest 7mm DVs use a fully sealing shoulder so I would again certainly think that is what you have. If they are rated at 80cc or 100cc they are likely a fully sealing shoulder. My comp style with the loose shoulder are rated at 130cc if I recall.
 
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I installed his 7mm delivery valves in my truck and they dropped my idle from 750 to not being able to start.

I raised it up to 750 again and it holds with and without the a/c on.

Also mine are the 70cc dv's.
 
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APWCU said:
I installed his 7mm delivery valves in my truck and they dropped my idle from 750 to not being able to start.

I raised it up to 750 again and it holds with and without the a/c on.

Also mine are the 70cc dv's.
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So your truck will idle at 750 in neutral and 750 in drive?
 
Mine dropped idle also when I installed my 100cc 7mm from Weston.All I did was readjust the idle back to where it was with the 042 DDP's.
 
NickTF said:
The different delivery valves act differently at different areas of rack travel. The fully sealing style really limit low rack fueling it appears which is also why they are hard to make idle correctly (with the fully sealing shoulder). Most of Weston's latest 7mm DVs use a fully sealing shoulder so I would again certainly think that is what you have. If they are rated at 80cc or 100cc they are likely a fully sealing shoulder. My comp style with the loose shoulder are rated at 130cc if I recall.
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I talked to Weston and he's going to have me try some 100cc's to hopefully allow a little more low-end fuel. Hopefully that'll straighten her out.

Thanks for the responses.
 
APWCU said:
Its a manual
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Yeah, should have checked your sig.

Got the truck back together and went back to the 7mm comp style delivery valves. Idle is back to having only a few hundred rpm drop.
 
Mine does the same thing with Weston's 7mm DVs.....I have messed with the GSK in both directions and no change. I have my idle set to 950 in park and it will drop to 750 in gear and idle there....any lower and it stalls. I'm glad to see this is normal....makes me feel a bit better about the situation.
 
In my opinion the trade off favors the 7mm delivery valves still. They are extremely clean and can pour on the fuel still!
 
I agree.....plus with my idle bump the truck starts better too.....I was just worried I did something wrong. Now that I see it's normal and thanks to your explanation Nick I feel a 100% better. I was about to pull them tonight and go back to the stock 181's and see if my problem went away. You saved me some hassle. Do you have a link to that thread you referenced about the sealing shoulder?
 
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Dusterb318 said:
I agree.....plus with my idle bump the truck starts better too.....I was just worried I did something wrong. Now that I see it's normal and thanks to your explanation Nick I feel a 100% better. I was about to pull them tonight and go back to the stock 181's and see if my problem went away. You saved me some hassle. Do you have a link to that thread you referenced about the sealing shoulder?
Click to expand...

sdx comp delivery valve vs? - Page 5 - Competition Diesel.Com - Bringing The BEST Together

Enjoy and no problem. Definitely good to save time and hastle when possible! Unfortunately I often find you don't know until you try it for yourself. I would say leave the 7mm dv's in though for sure.
 
Yup, I went through this last week. Loosened the gov springs 3/4 of a turn each and turned the idle up. Solved the problem.
 
100cc set seemed to solve the issue, the 180hp P7100's always seem finicky. Phil I will trade you up to the 100cc also if you like, just let me know.
 
Sure......Im up for that. I can pull them tonight. Do you still have my address? Thanks Weston.
 
Weston is sending me some 100cc units to swap out for my 70cc.....When I get them I'll post up about how they idle. I'm sure it will be better if Weston says it will. Thanks again Weston as you don't have to do this but it is very much appreciated.
 
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