studs & rockers

2000_fummins said:
Since we are already on the subject. I have the pattern on witch bolts to tighten in order. What do you torque ur studs to the first time second time and final torque. Would be much appreciated.
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if you are replaceing one at a time torque to 130# call it good no need for 1,2,3
 
Depends on if you have normal studs or the high strength ones. 130 is good for the normal ones, 150ish for the high strength ones iirc.
 
Just did mine tq'd the to 130 arp spec is 125.

I didnt bottom tap, and to set the record straight, arp 2000's will bottom from not enough thread on the stud, before they bottom inside the block.

Here is a pic of the stock bolt, vs a arp stud, the arp has about 1 inch of thread and the stock bolt is atleast 1.5 inch. If you look close you can see the line of oil where the stock bolt bottomed. Its only uses about 1 inch of thread.
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I did have to mill the pedistals, took off about .3 of an inch, didnt take long at all. I didt have to grind the covers at all. Arp says in the instructions that the new studs are designed to be the same height as a stock bolt. Also, it didnt say anywhere in the unstructions that you should bottom tap the block....

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BTW the short studs neer the exhaust were too short, they dont use 100% of the threads on the stud, if you bottom them in thw block they only protrude out if the head about 3/8 of an inch, they catch about 1.5 threads if you keep them bottomed and install a nut and washer. I backed them out untill the nut caught all threads and tourqued them down, they tourqued fine
 
ahale2772 said:
Just did mine tq'd the to 130 arp spec is 125.

I didnt bottom tap, and to set the record straight, arp 2000's will bottom from not enough thread on the stud, before they bottom inside the block.
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Ha! That's awesome, an internet myth blown out of the water by actual testing. :lolly:
 
Yeah imagine that, unless people decide to tap the studs for more thread, its usless...
 
arp studs 220,000psi studs have a max torque of 225# so the stud is not the problem. due to the lube on the stud the better the lube less torque is needed for the same clamping force or stud elongation.also most torque wrenchs have a indicated value accuracy of 5%, I like to go to the high side.
 
Arps NEED to have the rockers clearanced to fit the v-covers I just found out the hard way on this :(
 
TRUBBS said:
Arps NEED to have the rockers clearanced to fit the v-covers I just found out the hard way on this :(
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also, where do i find a bottom tap? even after reliefe cutting the rockers, the vcovers still wont fit...
 
What is the interference with the cover, the stud, the nut, or both? In ahale2772's pics it almost looks like the pedestal didn't need to be milled as the stud protrudes well above the nut. Just need the nuts flush with the end of the stud right?
 
I just done one of these. All I had to do was mill some out of the valve cover. Are you sure that's why the are leaking?
 
jdjanetka said:
What is the interference with the cover, the stud, the nut, or both? In ahale2772's pics it almost looks like the pedestal didn't need to be milled as the stud protrudes well above the nut. Just need the nuts flush with the end of the stud right?
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stud sticks up to far, i bought the studs used and it appears the owner before me had the same issue as the top of the stud has already been cut down to the point i couldnt use the allen head to screw them in. i ground the valve cover completely flat underneather and even ground down the rocker pedistall and still couldnt clear it
 
TRUBBS said:
stud sticks up to far, i bought the studs used and it appears the owner before me had the same issue as the top of the stud has already been cut down to the point i couldnt use the allen head to screw them in. i ground the valve cover completely flat underneather and even ground down the rocker pedistall and still couldnt clear it
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Are you sure they are arp??
 
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