studs & rockers

fire power said:
So what are you trying to say??????
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gwhammy said:
Looks like the A-1's have the bottom with no threads to bottom out on the block. What good would it do to tape the block if stud has no threads on the bottom?
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This is what I was aiming at with the post about if you don't have A1s, you don't need to tell people what does or doesn't need to be done with them.

Honestly, I don't see the confusion here. Unless someone gets a used set or something they should come with instructions. If they can read then there's no need for questions. If they say to clearance your rockers, clearance your rockers. If they say to tap your holes, tap your holes. If it says to use washers, use washers.

Even if it takes some extra time, at least you'll know it works without having to rely on internet rumors.
 
Well, the arp's said to tap the holes. We didn't do it. It also said to cut the pedestals. We didn't do that either. It said to torque to 125. Dido didn't do that. Didn't use the washer under the nuts on the rocker arm studs.

Did it work for us, yes, am I telling people this is the way it should be done, no. I'm just telling people what we did. If you want to do it by the book that's the way I would do it. If you want to experiment it's your nickle if it don't work.

Oh, we didn't use the arp lube either. I guess the only thing done by the arp instructions was to use most of the kit sent.

I put the extreme studs in mine, did they work, yes. Most wouldn't have put a stud they no nothing about in a motor. I think they are a quality product after using them. Did I have a problem, yes. The torque sheet that comes with them doesn't have a high enough torque value. How do I know this, I blew the first gasket. It recomended 105, mine are torqued to 140 now and I'm going to back them off and relube and torque to 150. Is there a chance of breaking, yes but that's the chance I will take.

I do agree with you, just put the info on here you know something about, everyone can take or leave it.
 
gwhammy said:
Well, the arp's said to tap the holes. We didn't do it. It also said to cut the pedestals. We didn't do that either. It said to torque to 125. Dido didn't do that. Didn't use the washer under the nuts on the rocker arm studs.

Did it work for us, yes, am I telling people this is the way it should be done, no. I'm just telling people what we did. If you want to do it by the book that's the way I would do it. If you want to experiment it's your nickle if it don't work.

Oh, we didn't use the arp lube either. I guess the only thing done by the arp instructions was to use most of the kit sent.

I put the extreme studs in mine, did they work, yes. Most wouldn't have put a stud they no nothing about in a motor. I think they are a quality product after using them. Did I have a problem, yes. The torque sheet that comes with them doesn't have a high enough torque value. How do I know this, I blew the first gasket. It recomended 105, mine are torqued to 140 now and I'm going to back them off and relube and torque to 150. Is there a chance of breaking, yes but that's the chance I will take.

I do agree with you, just put the info on here you know something about, everyone can take or leave it.
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Amen
 
gwhammy said:
Looks like the A-1's have the bottom with no threads to bottom out on the block. What good would it do to tape the block if stud has no threads on the bottom? The a1'a are like the extreme studs on the bottom. If lubed good the washer on top of the rocker pedestal doesn't have to be used.I can see it on the cast iron but a slick steel with lube ought to torque as good as using a washer. Not any different than the stock bolts rubbing on the rocker pedestal.
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The washers are hardened to prevent galling between the rotating faces.
 
Well I've done two sets now, one to 135 and another to 140 without the washers with no problems. Lots of lube. Again, I'm not telling anyone this is the way to do it just that this is the way I did it and had good luck. Without the washers on the arp's we didn't have to cut the pedestals down to clear the valve covers and we didn't bottom tap. We did grind the ribs out of the top of the though. The valve covers would clear without gaskets set up this way.
 
No but it is a slick finish. We put a lot of lube on them when they were torqued. It's not like you are spinning a nut against it with a impact. This is the way we did it, it worked good. Put a washer if you are scared to do it this way. I'm just explaining how I did it, not recomending it to anyone.
 
If some company decided to make a stud exactly for a 12v... Then i would follow the instructuons to the letter.

But those theoretical studs would have no clearance issues and bottomtapping would not be nessesary. In a perfect world.

Since that isnt true... I think improvization is nessesary.

Clearly the arp's are ment to be used with the studs. I would rather have 4 surfaces to hold lube then 2.... The whole
Idea of them is that they are a bearing, such that the nut spins to propper rotational tourque without interfearance from the friction of spinning the nut
 
Well that's why I bought the extreme studs, you don't have to bottom tap and I was told buy the maker to leave the washer off the the rockers so the nut would clear the valve covers. The only problem I had with them was the torque value was to low with the instructions and they didn't come with recomended grease.

I've since had several talks with Jeff the owner and he agrees he needs to send a recomended lube with them. I hope he ups the torque specs with the lube, then I believe he will have a product as good as any out there.

I've watched when we torque and sometimes the washer will spin and sometimes it won't so if it spins with the nut it ain't no different than the nut no washer. Granted I think the washer should be used. I don't think the washers make one lick of difference on the rockers, if you are not comfortable leaving them off don't.
 
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