studs & rockers

fire power said:
can you post a pic of them installed?
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sure thing, its uploading to webshots right now

its the first one thats given me the problems, the others will fit with the webbing gone and the pedistal relived..
 
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Off of ARP's site says to tap the threads deeper to allow the stud to the specified height. I just installed studs into my rig and I had no issues at all.
 
yeah I would say something is wrong Can you get it to turn down into the block further?
 
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TRUBBS said:
sure thing, its uploading to webshots right now

its the first one thats given me the problems, the others will fit with the webbing gone and the pedistal relived..
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Wrong bro. You need to get the rocker pedistals machined. Look at your arp instructions. Not being rude bro. Bottom taping don't do sh!t and wont fix your problematic. Ill get you pics if you like.
 
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Here's a thread about a fellow that had one of his nuts break in half as he was torquing it:

So how often does this happen? [Archive] - Competition Diesel.Com - Bringing The BEST Together

BC847 said:
This set of studs, nuts and washers came from Haisley's Machine.

The written instruction I used in installing them was from Haisley.

In talking with them this morning, at one time, they used ARP nuts and washers with A1 studs. They have since switched to using all A1 components in their stud kits.
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If they're an early set of studs or one you don't know the history of you might have a set. A1's do go to the bottom of the hole and need to be bottom tapped for. Does the bottom just taper off like in Ahale's pics or is it different?

Here's a set of 12v A1's next to stock bolts:

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There A1's my bad. I missed that part. I just got my pedistals done and it worked great.
 
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2000_fummins said:
Wrong bro. You need to get the rocker pedistals machined. Look at your arp instructions. Not being rude bro. Bottom taping don't do sh!t and wont fix your problematic. Ill get you pics if you like.
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Machining the pedestals won't let studs screw into the block any further.
 
Yeah, if it's an actual interference between the stud itself and the valve cover maching the pedestals won't help. There's a chance that someone tapped the holes then didn't clean the crap out of the bottom.
 
Tate said:
Machining the pedestals won't let studs screw into the block any further.
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I had the studs ahall was talking about in his pics and ran into no problems. I know it don't help with his problem. Im almost certain you can get a long enough tap with out having to custom fab one.
 
clealy the ARP vs A-1 thing is a big difference. there should be a sticky on this somewhere, because its really not an issue that is debatable. ARP's do not need the block bottom tapped, but to get full engagement on the nut, and full thread engagement in the block the pedistals need to be machined.

the A-1's clearly have more thread than the ARP's, and are longer, so they will need to be bottom tapped to take advantage of the excess thread

stock bolts have lots of thread, but they are only long enough to use about 1inch of that thread (you can see how much of the stock bolt thread is used in the picture i posted on the 2nd page)
 
Tacoclaw quoted something a while back that was interesting, about the relationship to thread length and the actual amount of load each thread carries, it is not equal... meaning the threads closest to the deck surface of the block take more load than the lower ones... so a super long stud may be pointless... that being said, I dont see the point in bottom tapping for the a1's
 
Looks like the A-1's have the bottom with no threads to bottom out on the block. What good would it do to tape the block if stud has no threads on the bottom? The a1'a are like the extreme studs on the bottom. If lubed good the washer on top of the rocker pedestal doesn't have to be used.I can see it on the cast iron but a slick steel with lube ought to torque as good as using a washer. Not any different than the stock bolts rubbing on the rocker pedestal.
 
ahale2772 said:
clealy the ARP vs A-1 thing is a big difference. there should be a sticky on this somewhere, because its really not an issue that is debatable. ARP's do not need the block bottom tapped, but to get full engagement on the nut, and full thread engagement in the block the pedistals need to be machined.

the A-1's clearly have more thread than the ARP's, and are longer, so they will need to be bottom tapped to take advantage of the excess thread

stock bolts have lots of thread, but they are only long enough to use about 1inch of that thread (you can see how much of the stock bolt thread is used in the picture i posted on the 2nd page)
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Sticky is a great idea. Mods help? :rockwoot:
 
Just did a set of arp's this morning. We didn't bottom tap all of them worked fine. On the rocker ones we left the washer out and ground the ribs out of the valve covers. With no gasket it still didn't hit. If you bottom tapped the rocker pedestal would need cut. They had about a 1/8 to 1/4 inch sticking out above the nut. Worked great.
 
The tit on the bottom of the A1's is there to bottom out in the hole so the stud doesn't turn into the block while you're torquing the nut and give a false torque reading.

If you all have A1 studs and don't think you need to bottom tap the block, then don't. If you don't have A1's and are telling people they don't need to bottom tap for them, then you need to stop talking. The instructions say to bottom tap and I needed to bottom tap to get mine to the bottom of the hole.

If the instructions say to do it, then do it, There's really no reason not to.
 
Also, to add to the above you need to clean the crap out of the bottom of the hole after you've cleaned the threads. It seems like common sense, but considering the amount of people who don't follow instructions it seems to merit mentioning.
 
Tacoclaw said:
Also, to add to the above you need to clean the crap out of the bottom of the hole after you've cleaned the threads. It seems like common sense, but considering the amount of people who don't follow instructions it seems to merit mentioning.
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Correct... but you don't have to its a matter of opinion
 
fire power said:
Are you sure they are arp??
TRUBBS said:
the nut on them says ARP so i would assume that the stud is also arp
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I only mentioned the A1s in my post as a response to this. Since this thread was started about ARPs I'll stop talking about them after this post, I was just wanting to let this guy know he could have had A1s.


fire power said:
Correct... but you don't have to its a matter of opinion
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With A1's it'll be the opinion of someone who's cutting holes in their valve covers. With ARPs it won't make any difference since they don't go anywhere near the bottom of the hole.
 
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Tacoclaw said:
If you don't have A1's and are telling people they don't need to bottom tap for them, then you need to stop talking.
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Tacoclaw said:
With ARPs it won't make any difference since they don't go anywhere near the bottom of the hole.
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So what are you trying to say??????.....And i was talking about arp not a1 I thought that was already determined
 
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