Swole's Carnage AGAIN!!!!

Damn, your going through engines like I go through transmissions! Sorry about your carnage, it sucks but all we can do is adapt and overcome.
 
:doh: If this was April 1st I'd call BS. Unbelievable. Sorry David.
 
WOW!

Not again! I must say you are a trooper to keep going. Sorry to see it seemed all was good this time. Hope to see you at TS. Jeff
 
Thank you to Everyone for their replies and offerings to help!!!

I wish I had time to reply to each and everyone of you right now but I just got up and need to hot foot it down to Jeff's to finish the tear down. I am on duty for three days after today and won't be able to work on it.

For the record you guys, I am TRULY honored to be apart of such a giving family of friends on this forum, most of which have never seen or spoke to me except here!!!

I kinda feel like I becoming a burden on you guys and mainly Jeff G.

A HUGE thank you to everyone that donated last go round and for those who offered this time too! I promise that If I choose to accept, that I will try to "pay it forward" when my luck turns around! Chris Snyder is who reminded me of that movie when he donated the block last time!

You guys are truly Great!!!!
God bless you all and Thank You again!!

David
 
We will get this thing up for TS. David is a trooper for sure most guys would have given up by now. I think he just could'nt find a company to coat the interior of his exhaust housings and manifold!!! They are nice and ceramic now! :hehe:
 
Jeff2 said:
We will get this thing up for TS. David is a trooper for sure most guys would have given up by now. I think he just could'nt find a company to coat the interior of his exhaust housings and manifold!!! They are nice and ceramic now! :hehe:
Click to expand...

That's what I was wondering. Did that coating become a accelerant and make it even hotter than it was. It surely shouldn't have came off every piston like it did.
 
Holey sheet! David, I'm sorry to read and see this! That's just carzy.


Just pull that motor out and put a dinasour in it.....lol...could be cheaper in thel long run..
 
Sorry to hear of this unfortunate luck man. I can tell you this if you keep with it you're going to get these issues well figured out or atleast hopefully you will! Keep your chin up, we've all thought about making that sale from time to time and are glad we didn't;)
 
Big Swole said:
Thank you to Everyone for their replies and offerings to help!!!

I wish I had time to reply to each and everyone of you right now but I just got up and need to hot foot it down to Jeff's to finish the tear down. I am on duty for three days after today and won't be able to work on it.

For the record you guys, I am TRULY honored to be apart of such a giving family of friends on this forum, most of which have never seen or spoke to me except here!!!

I kinda feel like I becoming a burden on you guys and mainly Jeff G.

A HUGE thank you to everyone that donated last go round and for those who offered this time too! I promise that If I choose to accept, that I will try to "pay it forward" when my luck turns around! Chris Snyder is who reminded me of that movie when he donated the block last time!

You guys are truly Great!!!!
God bless you all and Thank You again!!

David
Click to expand...



What was the rail pressure on the runs, with PPE and Smarty?
 
This is certainly a high cylinder temperature failure. All the classic signs are there.

I have posted on every forum I visit on multiple occasions that water injection is the only "crutch" that can help prevent this kind of mess. The Common Rail efficiency at turning fuel into power is unbelievable. The cylinder temps generated are way too high for long term durability. The only thing one can do is a water system to try and drive down those numbers. Im not talking about a bastardized water system with meth or some other chemical. Pure water.

Nearly all Ceramic coatings will be flashed off a in matter of seconds at these cylinder temps.

On a competitive CR engine, the EGT probe is a waste of time. You might as well be reading the fuel gauge. It is no longer an indicator of latent heat like a 12 valve or to a lesser extent a VP44 engine would give. CR engines have very little latent heat from left over unburned fuel. Highly atomized fuel from small spraying holes and massive injection power through pressures 2.5 times higher than a 12V would generate turn that incombustable liquid into a cloud of vapor that burns as fast ( almost literally ) as it can be injected. They simply burn it fast and very efficiently. So larger amounts of heat are generated inside a smaller window of time.

Couple of things I see: Number 5 is baked. Number 1 is getting some aluminum erosion around the outside lip of the bowl. The truck runs low 11 second 1/4 times. Thats enough to tell us the heat is outside the poor stock CR pistons capabilities of remaing a solid. LOL
 
Soup Nazi said:
This is certainly a high cylinder temperature failure. All the classic signs are there.

I have posted on every forum I visit on multiple occasions that water injection is the only "crutch" that can help prevent this kind of mess. The Common Rail efficiency at turning fuel into power is unbelievable. The cylinder temps generated are way too high for long term durability. The only thing one can do is a water system to try and drive down those numbers. Im not talking about a bastardized water system with meth or some other chemical. Pure water.

Nearly all Ceramic coatings will be flashed off a in matter of seconds at these cylinder temps.

On a competitive CR engine, the EGT probe is a waste of time. You might as well be reading the fuel gauge. It is no longer an indicator of latent heat like a 12 valve or to a lesser extent a VP44 engine would give. CR engines have very little latent heat from left over unburned fuel. Highly atomized fuel from small spraying holes and massive injection power through pressures 2.5 times higher than a 12V would generate turn that incombustable liquid into a cloud of vapor that burns as fast ( almost literally ) as it can be injected. They simply burn it fast and very efficiently. So larger amounts of heat are generated inside a smaller window of time.

Couple of things I see: Number 5 is baked. Number 1 is getting some aluminum erosion around the outside lip of the bowl. The truck runs low 11 second 1/4 times. Thats enough to tell us the heat is outside the poor stock CR pistons capabilities of remaing a solid. LOL
Click to expand...

Well, I think I'll be putting water on my motor as well once we get the truck running again.
 
Soup Nazi said:
This is certainly a high cylinder temperature failure. All the classic signs are there.

I have posted on every forum I visit on multiple occasions that water injection is the only "crutch" that can help prevent this kind of mess. The Common Rail efficiency at turning fuel into power is unbelievable. The cylinder temps generated are way too high for long term durability. The only thing one can do is a water system to try and drive down those numbers. Im not talking about a bastardized water system with meth or some other chemical. Pure water.

Nearly all Ceramic coatings will be flashed off a in matter of seconds at these cylinder temps.

On a competitive CR engine, the EGT probe is a waste of time. You might as well be reading the fuel gauge. It is no longer an indicator of latent heat like a 12 valve or to a lesser extent a VP44 engine would give. CR engines have very little latent heat from left over unburned fuel. Highly atomized fuel from small spraying holes and massive injection power through pressures 2.5 times higher than a 12V would generate turn that incombustable liquid into a cloud of vapor that burns as fast ( almost literally ) as it can be injected. They simply burn it fast and very efficiently. So larger amounts of heat are generated inside a smaller window of time.

Couple of things I see: Number 5 is baked. Number 1 is getting some aluminum erosion around the outside lip of the bowl. The truck runs low 11 second 1/4 times. Thats enough to tell us the heat is outside the poor stock CR pistons capabilities of remaing a solid. LOL
Click to expand...

the EGT probe has to be some sort of usefulness while tuning. Since we can not adjust timing to a known value (yet...). EGT is the best tool for the job that I can see. lower the EGT, the higher the timing. higher the EGT the lower the timing. Now, well knowing if the low timing is low enough, that's a different question........ :) Some math and correct understanding what what timing is a necessary first step here.

We need proper timing information for the CR motors. that's the bottom line.
 
Dang Swole, thats just awful. I know how ya feel man, i did the same thing last year right after I built a big engine for my puller.

Water is not the cure, it is tuning. Evertime I have melted a piston it has been because I got careless with my tune and had too much timming. Timming is everything, get it off just a little bit and the piston turns to liquid. After my major melt down last year i just put in a stock long block and kept the timming in check (best I can with canned tunning) and pistons stayed in tact for the whole season, even 1 minute long burnouts.

tips for not melting pistons (in bdps opinion)-

Run 03 style pistons and inj spray pattern

Timming- TURN THAT SHYTE DOWN! You dont need any added timming at all with big inj nozzles. In fact even the lowest setting you have may be too much already.

Water- can help but not 100% needed IMO if everything else is right.

Spray pattern- Keep it in the bowl, make sure and use nozzles that have had the pattern tightened up so that it stays in, or atleast use a thiner copper washer. Looks like you had a thicker hg then stock so your spray may be off quite a bit.

Do that stuff and it should last you.
 
bdp said:
Dang Swole, thats just awful. I know how ya feel man, i did the same thing last year right after I built a big engine for my puller.

Water is not the cure, it is tuning. Evertime I have melted a piston it has been because I got careless with my tune and had too much timming. Timming is everything, get it off just a little bit and the piston turns to liquid. After my major melt down last year i just put in a stock long block and kept the timming in check (best I can with canned tunning) and pistons stayed in tact for the whole season, even 1 minute long burnouts.

tips for not melting pistons (in bdps opinion)-

Run 03 style pistons and inj spray pattern

Timming- TURN THAT SHYTE DOWN! You dont need any added timming at all with big inj nozzles. In fact even the lowest setting you have may be too much already.

Water- can help but not 100% needed IMO if everything else is right.

Spray pattern- Keep it in the bowl, make sure and use nozzles that have had the pattern tightened up so that it stays in, or atleast use a thiner copper washer. Looks like you had a thicker hg then stock so your spray may be off quite a bit.

Do that stuff and it should last you.
Click to expand...

Define "big" injectors?
 
Damn it boy! That is effing nuts! Holler if you need anything David. glad you are able to keep a good attitude about the deal.
 
Timing and back pressure being in check are the key to any reliable and powerful build. David let me know if you need anything!
 
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