trans shelled out... again

Does your trans adapter still have both alignment dowels?

Something has to be out of alignment for your truck to continually eat converter snouts, pump bushings, and pump gears.
 
I got it apart finally, after cutting the sunshell apart:doh:. Looks like the 5th clutch had come off the splines and caused the pack to bind up. So, lesson learned, going back to stock setup.

Now why does this damn thing keep eating converter hubs and pumps? I'm running out of ideas. Trans dowel pins are there, flexplate runout within .005 last I checked it. There was at least 1/8" clearance between the TC and flex so no issue there.
 
12vCumminsFTW said:
I got it apart finally, after cutting the sunshell apart:doh:. Looks like the 5th clutch had come off the splines and caused the pack to bind up. So, lesson learned, going back to stock setup.

Now why does this damn thing keep eating converter hubs and pumps? I'm running out of ideas. Trans dowel pins are there, flexplate runout within .005 last I checked it. There was at least 1/8" clearance between the TC and flex so no issue there.
Click to expand...

Since I'm likely putting my trans in today, how do you measure TC/flexplate clearance, and where do you put the end of the dial indicator on the TC to check runout?
 
Chrisd91 said:
Since I'm likely putting my trans in today, how do you measure TC/flexplate clearance, and where do you put the end of the dial indicator on the TC to check runout?
Click to expand...


mathews8pt said:
I bolted the tc to the flex plate and mointed a dial indicator on the block, then positioned it so it was resting on the convertor hub, where the bushing sits.

I had already checked the flex plate with the dial indicator as well
Click to expand...

I see you answered the TC part earlier, do you check the flexplate in the same area?
 
mathews8pt said:
I checked runout on the flex plate at the outer edge of it. Just stuck the dial indicator on the block
Click to expand...

It was a pain to get my dial indicator on the block, but it barely fit the magnetic end between the firewall and block. Runout was ~.015" From the various specs I found, that did not seem to be excessive
 
Chrisd91 said:
It was a pain to get my dial indicator on the block, but it barely fit the magnetic end between the firewall and block. Runout was ~.015" From the various specs I found, that did not seem to be excessive
Click to expand...

Ive never seen an exact spec listed for it, but i would think that is fine. Especially if your using something other then a solid "billet" flexplate.
 
So been checking stuff in the trans today, still cant find anything that would cause the converter hub and pump to destroy themselves. Checked crankshaft endplay, around .010 which is in spec. Flexplate runout was fine when I checked it last time. I put the trans case on the engine and the alignment dowels fit the case tight still, no slop or anything. Might get a different case anyway.

There was no endplay when I tore it apart (locked up forward pack), not sure if that had anything to do with it?

Also still not sure what was causing the whining noise. I ran the truck without the trans and it sounded fine so I'm pretty sure it was something in the trans.
 
Tcs aermet input showed up today, hopefully the last input I'll have to buy. Guess its a 2 piece?

I'm going to go pick up a 48re tommorrow, gonna use the 48 hard parts and case the next go around. Hopefully have better luck this time:banghead:
 
At least you are sticking with it. Most people give up by now and sell their truck lol
 
Was the engine ever pulled out and have you had any starter issues, like binding or stripped teeth?
 
I did rebuild the engine last summer. No issues with the starter. I had run the same flexplate and a different converter after the engine rebuild with no problems like this.


Sent from phone
 
Does anyone have a 47rh laying around and can measure the vb connector hole? I need to machine a bushing since the hole in the 48 case is too big.


Sent from phone
 
Newtodagame said:
Did problems start before or after rebuild?
Click to expand...

Which rebuild lol. Ok the problem with the TC hub and pump getting destroyed started after I rebuilt trans when the OD planetary blew up on me. I installed a new goerend TC and new pump and the trans started acting up a few miles down the road so I pulled the VB, found it to be full of metal shavings, so pulled the trans and found the hub and pump ruined. Everything else was fine. Couldn't figure out why so cleaned/checked everything and put in new TC and pump again and it worked fine except for a weird whine. I pulled it out again when the forward clutch bound up and found the hub, pump, pump bushing screwed again. So this is where I am at now. I guess I'm just gonna put it back together with new parts and different trans case and try again. Not sure what else to do. Like I said I have check the flexplate, bellhousing adapter looks good, still has the dowel pins.
 
What is pressure set at idle in drive?

What mods have been done to the valvebody?

Did u remove cooler line checkball?

Thanks
 
pratherjoe said:
What is pressure set at idle in drive?

What mods have been done to the valvebody?

Did u remove cooler line checkball?

Thanks
Click to expand...

Checkball is long gone. Its is a Goerend Vb, line pressure in gear at idle was 60-100 depending on fluid temp which seems a bit low to me.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top