Truckers, lets see your rigs!

tiffo60 said:
My Ranger does 380w on a bad day :)

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How many of your kids did you sell to buy that thing? JESUS those Rangers are expensive!!!!
 
Ok serious question... 94 379. My fuse box is not taking a liking to my lights on one circuit. Would switching to all LED lights take enough draw off the circuit to be ok or am I gonna have to rewire? The truck was wired how it is when we got it or we would have wired into separate circuits.
I have 17 incandescent lights on the bed, 6 LED's on the bed including tail lights.
18 incandescents on the breathers.
2 led's on the back of the cab.
7 incandescent cab lights.
15 led's in the bumper.
And how ever many lights are in the headlight bezels. 2 running lights on each side if I remember right.
 
BRE said:
Ok serious question... 94 379. My fuse box is not taking a liking to my lights on one circuit. Would switching to all LED lights take enough draw off the circuit to be ok or am I gonna have to rewire? The truck was wired how it is when we got it or we would have wired into separate circuits.
I have 17 incandescent lights on the bed, 6 LED's on the bed including tail lights.
18 incandescents on the breathers.
2 led's on the back of the cab.
7 incandescent cab lights.
15 led's in the bumper.
And how ever many lights are in the headlight bezels. 2 running lights on each side if I remember right.
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It'd be cheaper to add a relay to that wire and run that circuit off a bigger fuse and trigger the relay with the fuse box.

It'd be sweeter to just replace all the incandescents with LED's.

Is that what you wanted to hear? What size is the fuse? 20A or 30A? I imagine it would hold all LED's. A 30A fuse should hold 30-35 LED's if they each draw 3/4 amp or so. Only load your fuse to 75%.
 
You most definately need LED's or more circuits, Pete's like to melt the fuse panel if over loaded.
 
Yup. Pete or no pete.....don't ever load your fuses over 75% is my rule of thumb. You don't need any more heat there.

Rick, you should get one of them Christmas light controllers and make them all dance to Prisoner of the Highway whilst trucking tobacco our of Carolina.
 
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4x4dually said:
Yup. Pete or no pete.....don't ever load your fuses over 75% is my rule of thumb. You don't need any more heat there.

Rick, you should get one of them Christmas light controllers and make them all dance to Prisoner of the Highway whilst trucking tobacco our of Carolina.
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The cool thing with a Pete is if you over load a relay it will melt the fuse panel down to the next relay and make a nice fire for roasting marsh mellows. They should have used a better plastic for the fuse panel.
 
6.4 F-350 said:
The cool thing with a Pete is if you over load a relay it will melt the fuse panel down to the next relay and make a nice fire for roasting marsh mellows. They should have used a better plastic for the fuse panel.
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Every 379 I've been around has a melted fuse panel... Which is exactly my problem. It's melting my fuse panel at the relay.
 
6.4 F-350 said:
You most definately need LED's or more circuits, Pete's like to melt the fuse panel if over loaded.
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Is switching to all led's gonna do the job? It's gonna cost is over 300 without doing cab lights. We'd rather do that than rewire though.
 
BRE said:
Every 379 I've been around has a melted fuse panel... Which is exactly my problem. It's melting my fuse panel at the relay.
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I would agree most do, people add things to factory wiring without thinking about load on a circuit. The best thing to do is add a couple more circuits with relays for the extra lights, add up amperage draw per light for the extra lights added along with wire size and length of run and add circuits. Take anything extra off the factory circuits.
 
6.4 F-350 said:
I would agree most do, people add things to factory wiring without thinking about load on a circuit. The best thing to do is add a couple more circuits with relays for the extra lights, add up amperage draw per light for the extra lights added along with wire size and length of run and add circuits. Take anything extra off the factory circuits.
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That's gonna suck ass... F me...
I bet boss man tries led's first though. He's good at wiring but hates it. Lol
 
BRE said:
That's gonna suck ass... F me...
I bet boss man tries led's first though. He's good at wiring but hates it. Lol
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Yeah it does suck, but I am not sure if just changing to LED's will be your saving grace.
 
I had an 88 379 that had terrible wiring gremlins, it'd drop to 9-10 volts on the gauge when you turned the markers on. We changed everything to led and the needle would barely flicker after that.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
 
Incandecents draw a TON of power. Switching to LED's would absolutely make a world of difference.
 
[ QUOTE=Mr.T;2294572]Incandecents draw a TON of power. Switching to LED's would absolutely make a world of difference.[/QUOTE]

Betting she gets switched right shortly. Have a set if 24" hogebuilt fenders sitting in the shop as well.
 
Wiring is easy.
Truckers... Now there's a pain in the ass.

Yank the relay, build jumpers for 85 and 86. Get 30 from a fuse protected source that you supply. 87 jmper to 87. Remote mounted relay.

You could also wire tandem relays and spread the load across them both.

But not splitting the load will ultimately set fire to something

Monkey Fist Rage
 
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I've been trying for 6 years to get the owner to give this thing up, near as I can tell its a mid 60's W900, has a 220 iron lung, 6x4 trans, and the mercury sleeper is sitting in the guy's shop. Offered him 11,000 cash today and still got turned down
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Incadessents average 194 bulb 3 watts @12v

LED 194 type .22 watts and .03 amps @12V

Huge difference , we did the same thing on our Tour busses , we stopped having wiring issues, light issues, and they last SOOOO much longer its kinda rediculas, were now looking into LED round headlingts and square headlights to replace the older ones too .
 
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