Twins On A Budget?

I dont want to hyjack this thread. I'll give a pic and short disc.
1. Take a BOV of your choice (I used a 38mm to vent 30psi) and mount it in a good spot. do not use the paper gasket it will not hold! use an O-ring or v-band flange. $35-300.
2. get an oil pressure guage kit with 1/8 copper tubing and compression fittings.$10-20
3. Drill a 1/8 NPT hole in exhaust manifold and mount the oil pressure guage fitting and line in it. runthe other end to the BOV and attach with a compression fitting into the vacuum port of the BOV.
4. adjust to suit.:charger:
 

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Not to be a total buzz kill..

But wouldn't a pressure releif valve do nearly the exact same thing? Maybe not as tune-able...

I think you can actually adjust the BV blow off to also be a pressure releif.. So it works as a regular BOV, and will pop off at a set pressure to keep total boost under control.
 
MD-Lucky, the idea is not to limit max boost or be a simple relief valve. The idea is to vent boost when you get off the throttle so boost doesn't rush backwards through the compressor, bark or stall it and break the shaft.
 
TURBOLVR said:
I dont want to hyjack this thread. I'll give a pic and short disc.
1. Take a BOV of your choice (I used a 38mm to vent 30psi) and mount it in a good spot. do not use the paper gasket it will not hold! use an O-ring or v-band flange. $35-300.
2. get an oil pressure guage kit with 1/8 copper tubing and compression fittings.$10-20
3. Drill a 1/8 NPT hole in exhaust manifold and mount the oil pressure guage fitting and line in it. runthe other end to the BOV and attach with a compression fitting into the vacuum port of the BOV.
4. adjust to suit.:charger:
Click to expand...

nice! how does it sound when you are driving normally? or does it only open when you completely let off under full throttle?
 
typically it (mine) will only vent over 20psi and a dropped throttle and it has a simple fssst sound. you can get valves that whistle and set up to dump easier but the noise wasn't MY motivation.
 
Big Blue24 said:
MD-Lucky, the idea is not to limit max boost or be a simple relief valve. The idea is to vent boost when you get off the throttle so boost doesn't rush backwards through the compressor, bark or stall it and break the shaft.
Click to expand...


No No, I totally understand the concept.

I just don't think that is the way to get it done. If your drive pressure spikes for any reason, your going to start cracking the bov and drop boost. Yes, it should work.. But does it 1: work fast enough to really prevent barking the turbo. and 2: what about pulling grades with a load?

The APPS idea is the best in function.. Just not the best in price.

If I ever get carried away, it will be with the BD system. But in all honesty.. I have enough boost control with my right foot now to not be too concerned about it.
 
why not just get a good turbo? my sps62 has been run at 50psi for over 40k miles, and I've barked it too many times to count...

if you guys haven't noticed, on diesels, it's usually shaft overspeed that kills turbos, not barking
 
MD-LUCKY said:
http://www.dieselperformance.com/index.php/product/index/10P

Not cheap.. But cheaper than a turbo!
Click to expand...

Off-topic:

Not cheap at all, and it doesn't work all that well as designed. It keeps the valve closed by using a small spring and boost pressure. The problem is that the spring isn't strong enough to overcome the boost from the CAC, so it leaks. I disconnected mine while drag racing. I only left it on for street use.

If you put a stiff enough spring for it to overcome the pressure, your turbo will bark. I fought that darn thing for a year before I gave up on it.

Knowing what I know now, I would have invested in an on-board air system and used air pressure from the tank to hold the valve closed. Then it would be a good system, but your cost just went from $600 to almost $1k when you're done. IMO you would need a regulator in addition to the on-board air so as to not damage the diaphragm in the TIAL valve.

The stupid 0-ring seals have a tendency to blow out of the piston as well when venting at 45+ PSI. Not a big deal to put it back in, but it's a buzz kill to have to pull over to get rid of your boost leak. The TIAL wasn't designed to work at the boost pressures our Cummins diesels make.

ON-topic:

I've been wanting a set of budget twins myself using the stock turbo. Only thing holding me back is the idea of pushing 600hp worth of exhaust gasses through a 9cm housing. The ideal thing for me would be an externally wastegated setup using the stocker over a S400, but there goes the budget. I might as well get a proper set of twins at that point!

For me, I might as well get a 62/65/13ss and start from there...
 
Bill You Know that twins aren't cheap!!!! Just use your ...... Credit card bud! Wish you would hurry up and get them so you could make some horses!
 
JCleary said:
Off-topic:

Not cheap at all, and it doesn't work all that well as designed. It keeps the valve closed by using a small spring and boost pressure. The problem is that the spring isn't strong enough to overcome the boost from the CAC, so it leaks. I disconnected mine while drag racing. I only left it on for street use.

If you put a stiff enough spring for it to overcome the pressure, your turbo will bark. I fought that darn thing for a year before I gave up on it.

Knowing what I know now, I would have invested in an on-board air system and used air pressure from the tank to hold the valve closed. Then it would be a good system, but your cost just went from $600 to almost $1k when you're done. IMO you would need a regulator in addition to the on-board air so as to not damage the diaphragm in the TIAL valve.

The stupid 0-ring seals have a tendency to blow out of the piston as well when venting at 45+ PSI. Not a big deal to put it back in, but it's a buzz kill to have to pull over to get rid of your boost leak. The TIAL wasn't designed to work at the boost pressures our Cummins diesels make.

ON-topic:

I've been wanting a set of budget twins myself using the stock turbo. Only thing holding me back is the idea of pushing 600hp worth of exhaust gasses through a 9cm housing. The ideal thing for me would be an externally wastegated setup using the stocker over a S400, but there goes the budget. I might as well get a proper set of twins at that point!

For me, I might as well get a 62/65/13ss and start from there...
Click to expand...


New i didnt want to hear...:hehe:
 
Pack to the twins on a budget subject, I might be selling a 1/2 complete kit for an HX35/HT3B here very very soon.
 
Forrest Nearing said:
why not just get a good turbo? my sps62 has been run at 50psi for over 40k miles, and I've barked it too many times to count...
Click to expand...


Fair enough.. My $300 hybrid has been barked from 40 psi more times then I could possibly count also.. I've always figured that if I nuke it, I will pick up some flavor of the s300. Hybrid or 300, its going to be the small turbo on a twin setup by this summer, anywho.


Not cheap at all, and it doesn't work all that well as designed. It keeps the valve closed by using a small spring and boost pressure. The problem is that the spring isn't strong enough to overcome the boost from the CAC, so it leaks. I disconnected mine while drag racing. I only left it on for street use.

If you put a stiff enough spring for it to overcome the pressure, your turbo will bark. I fought that darn thing for a year before I gave up on it.

Knowing what I know now, I would have invested in an on-board air system and used air pressure from the tank to hold the valve closed. Then it would be a good system, but your cost just went from $600 to almost $1k when you're done. IMO you would need a regulator in addition to the on-board air so as to not damage the diaphragm in the TIAL valve.

The stupid 0-ring seals have a tendency to blow out of the piston as well when venting at 45+ PSI. Not a big deal to put it back in, but it's a buzz kill to have to pull over to get rid of your boost leak. The TIAL wasn't designed to work at the boost pressures our Cummins diesels make.
Click to expand...

Good to hear from someone that has used them. Sounds like they are also not the answer.
 
MD-LUCKY said:
If you have a nonwastegated housing, you will need an external wastegate. That is a little more expensive (and complicated) but well worth the extra cost. It shoots your "budget" in the foot, but it is a superior setup.
Click to expand...

bump

Why is the external gate a superior setup ?
 
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