Valve face depth in head.

Guess what, the lash adjusters on the back of the rocker are used to make up for small differences, no need for different pushrods.

Also, if the valves are all the same length(which they should be) then the only issue is the valve face depth. That should be your only consern, after the above is checked.
 
I have a plan(cut the shallow ones deeper and live with the couple that are a bit deeper than normal). just looking for a place to do it without setting me back to square one.
 
:hehe: at the tags to this thread...

Feel sorry for you Ron, a buddy of mine bought a head from the place mentioned in the tags. Spent good money for it, only to find out he had the same issues. Had to have it all redone at his cost.:bang
 
GOT-Torque said:
:hehe: at the tags to this thread...

Feel sorry for you Ron, a buddy of mine bought a head from the place mentioned in the tags. Spent good money for it, only to find out he had the same issues. Had to have it all redone at his cost.:bang
Click to expand...

I laughed at those too. Funny thing is, this was not a cheap job so i guess the last tag isn't always true. But in all fairness these things do happen. I've been machining for over 30 years and and I know that there are just times when something slips through.
 
Last edited:
Smokem said:
I take it you are unaware of what Ron paid, but it might be uncharacteristic of you to make assumptions now wouldn't it?



The ignorance level of your posts grows daily I see.
Click to expand...



it's not just price but service, but who thinks about that...

i was familiar with what Ron wanted to spend because i was asked by him what i would charge to perform the same services.
 
Last edited:
paulb said:
Stem height really mostly matters when setting push rod length. Getting them the same, means that you only need one lenght of push rod, to get the contact area in the bridge correct.
Click to expand...

Since the rocker arms on these engines are on a "fixed" pivote point, the push rods are not of big consern on getting the length right. They should have a good contact pattern with factory spec on the stem lengths and/or the the closed depth height on the top side of the head. This would include the rocker bridge hieght aswell. The only way you could change the contact pattern would be to change the overall height of the valve and bridge or the height of the rocker pivot.

Now in some instances, lets say a small block chevy with traditional stud mounted rockers, the rocker pivote "floats" and the valve lash (or lifter preload in a hydrolic tappet situation) is adjusted by the rocker stud nuts, but the contact pattern is adjusted by push rod length.
 
This isn't how i like to learn, but having problems tends to drive home the information to a part of the brain that doesn't forget. The shop that did the work has been very supportive and I harbor no ill will towards them at all. It is merely a small setback in my time frame. I learned alot.
Thank you all.

RonA
 
RonA said:
This isn't how i like to learn, but having problems tends to drive home the information to a part of the brain that doesn't forget. The shop that did the work has been very supportive and I harbor no ill will towards them at all. It is merely a small setback in my time frame. I learned alot.
Thank you all.

RonA
Click to expand...


What I learn and retain, is directly proportional to the amount of pain it took to learn it.
 
Smokem said:
The ignorance level of your posts grows daily I see.
Click to expand...

You take it however you want, i was making a general statement, ive taken apart some sloppy chit that was working fine

I in now way was recommending just to use it that way
 
Last edited:
More issues. The intake is poorly made and won't seal even with a gasket. I can flycut it(that will remove the ceramic coating , but it has runs on the sealing surface anyway), but for $1k I could make 2 out of stainless and do a better job. I need to measure the metal on the bottom of the intake, it feels thin and that may be a problem. A couple of standoffs to tie the top and bottom togeter would help.All in all, I would not recommend someone that does this kind of work. The head needs rework and the intake is not a quality part. Sad. I will make my own intake and take care of the valve issue myself. This isn't the first expensive piece of the puzzle that is substandard.
 
I flat sanded the sealing surface of the manifold and it is the coating that is inconsistant. I will go ahead and sand it off the other sealing surface and at least be able to use it to get up and going. I can make a new one later when it's all together and i see how much additional room is gained by the new gear housing having the pump mounting position slightly rotated. Now I just have to wait for the to come back from re-work and then send some cross over tube blanks to be gundrilled. I happened to notice that the ones i purchased were drilled from both sides and are about half the hole diameter off where they meet in the middle.
 
Got the head delivered to a shop to see if they can fix it. I told him not to be afraid to say no. He likes the porting, but not the valve job.
 
The local shop(3 hours away) turned the repair job down. They recommend new seats and re-port but are afraid to damge it. I'm sending it to a shop in Utah to see if they can fix it. If not, Zachs heads are almost done and all I would have to do is backtrack a bit. I still have the pistons to run with the 12V head so I could just get the reliefs cut, get them coated, and then go through about 10 sets of 12v injectors to find some that work.LOL On the bright side, I wouldn't need to buy custom lines and make a new set of cross over tubes.
 
RonA said:
The local shop(3 hours away) turned the repair job down. They recommend new seats and re-port but are afraid to damge it. I'm sending it to a shop in Utah to see if they can fix it. If not, Zachs heads are almost done and all I would have to do is backtrack a bit. I still have the pistons to run with the 12V head so I could just get the reliefs cut, get them coated, and then go through about 10 sets of 12v injectors to find some that work.LOL On the bright side, I wouldn't need to buy custom lines and make a new set of cross over tubes.
Click to expand...

Are the intakes at least the same per bore? or all all of them different. I got a head like this once when i first started out with engine building myself, ran it anyway and made lots of power, you i dont think will have much to worry about, unless you want to spend more money.
cheaper way if you must would be to re lap the valves, there is plenty of margine, espesially the exhaust valve...
 
I'll wait and see what I hear from Randy's Engine and Machine. If he can fix it , great. If not, I'll back track to the 12V head and pistons.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top