Very small 12 valve tow twins

Go full loose, and then near full tight.. See how each drives, then shoot for somewhere in the middle, where it drives best... And has good balance with drive pressure...
 
24vriviera said:
Go full loose, and then near full tight.. See how each drives, then shoot for somewhere in the middle, where it drives best... And has good balance with drive pressure...
Click to expand...

full tight pulled the hardest, I didn't go full loose because I'm afraid the nut will vibrate off and the spring will get lost LOL But with it fairly loose total boost dropped 20psi, and it doesn't pull near as hard, and the primary doesn't do as much. I need to rent a dyno for an hour and just play with it.
 
juguzy4y.jpg

a3ujydaq.jpg

ymetatuj.jpg

te5a3u3a.jpg

yga7ybaj.jpg

e7u5ugu5.jpg

ygesa3u7.jpg

zy3upeja.jpg


Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
Looks good mike. Are you gonna need a hood scoop or aftermarket hood? Doesn't look like it'll clear
 
I may still use a hood scoop just to push a little more cold air onto that cooler. I figure every little bit helps. I need to find a cheap 2nd gen hood that I'll feel ok with cutting a hole in, and just use one of those stick on scoops to see how it looks. Then I'll have someone with real skills mold one in.
 
Looks great! This is as close as I've come to watching my spawn take it's first steps!!!

One radiator?
 
newsmoke said:
Looks great! This is as close as I've come to watching my spawn take it's first steps!!!

One radiator?
Click to expand...

2

Bottom one is completely covered by condenser/trans cooler. In the one picture you can see the water lines running too it from the pass headlight area.
 
Last edited:
Cliff is correct.

Sent from my SM-T210R using Tapatalk
 
Yeah, it looks bad. But I can pull it all out with 6 clamps, and 2 bracket bolts. 2 sockets on the electric impact and about 30 seconds, and it can all be lifted out. Putting it back in takes a little longer because it has to be lined up. You can see in the one pic where the secondary boot to the cooler is starting to tear, I need to clock the housing just a hair.

I think after I get the 2nd water pump in, it will be good to go and I should never have to tear it out.
 
Just make a one piece block and head in your garage. That way no more head gasket/stud garbage again
 
Head gasket fixed, no more oil leaks. Truck is now actually 100% leak free lol.

Cruising @ 75 @ 2300rpm: egt 600 10psi, uphill egt 700 20 psi

e5y6y7um.jpg


asynyzyv.jpg


Weird rust in #6

hynyzunu.jpg


uranumub.jpg


hy5y8aga.jpg


Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
Looks good man.

It would be neat to have a few water temp gauges to monitor the a/w coolant temp pre and post.

Time for some aluminum polish.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top