What you guys running for rods in the LLY engines?

I've got 3 years of running 10's at 7400 lbs on my stock pistons. Don't know the hp, but it's in the 900-1000 range. Wouldn't hesitate to use them again. Also like others said, do a good set of rods.
 
rush said:
Sorry, stock delipped. No coating
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These were my cut stockers after 8k and 8-900 H.P.,,, Truck still ran OK untill the Crank broke:doh:

BrokecrankLLY4.jpg


BrokecrankLLY5.jpg


I will be going with Aria's this time around...
 
custom8726 said:
These were my cut stockers after 8k and 8-900 H.P.,,, Truck still ran OK untill the Crank broke:doh:

BrokecrankLLY4.jpg


BrokecrankLLY5.jpg


I will be going with Aria's this time around...
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Ouch, forged pistons or not, i would be changing something besides that before its running again...
 
RobH said:
Ouch, forged pistons or not, i would be changing something besides that before its running again...
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That engine seen some extreme temps and I'm not talking about EGT's... But yes I am changing alot of things on my current build....
 
Diesel Tech said:
TTS rods are not re-badged anything, we designed them here as we do all of our products. If your planning to make power your best bet would be to install aftermarket billet rods, have the factory crankshaft key'ed and make your mind up how much power you want to run as that will dictate which pistons you will require. Using a stock piston and delip'ing it is good for about 700 Hp at the crank max. Forged pistons will go much higher but the unknown on them is how long they will last if you plan to make it a daily driver. We have several with over 25,000 on them so far but we do not want you to get mislead about how long they will last.

With our forged pistons and rods we have made over 1600 Hp and things hold up well with a stock crankshaft that has been key'ed and the assembly balanced. Internal balance only goes to weaken the stock crankshaft as you must remove to much of the parent material and replace it with heavy metal, so do not waste your money on that one.
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Thats the most retarded statment i've seen you make to date...:hehe:

Sorry but how can drilling the counterweight make the crank mains or rod throws weaker......:nail:
 
DIESEL_POWER said:
Thats the most retarded statment i've seen you make to date...:hehe:

Sorry but how can drilling the counterweight make the crank mains or rod throws weaker......:nail:
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If he said that? I don't agree either.

However I don't believe a balanced motor is what we need.... I'm going with a offset this time around.


I think wade that you will find some damage on the bearings, it not as simple as a good balance. Jmho
 
The rods just bend or they get thrown? Would a gridle help keeping everything together.

Just took for granted that a duramax could handle 1000rwhp.
 
DIESEL_POWER said:
Thats the most retarded statment i've seen you make to date...:hehe:

Sorry but how can drilling the counterweight make the crank mains or rod throws weaker......:nail:
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Well Wade just goes to show that you have not seen an internal balanced Duramax crankshaft for a steel rod motor! You need to take the counterweights and make swiss cheese out of them to try and get enough heavy metal in them and when you remove all that parent material it is much weaker as there is not much left of the original counter weights. Then what have you done to the NVH that no one has bothered to look into. The damper will have to be changed as well. As I said weaker and not worth the trouble for what the OP is asking for.

Now were not talking about an aluminum rod motor which requires much less weight to start with and the fact that you have R&R aluminum rods in a motor you did not build doesn't compare. So before you go sticking your foot in your mouth again maybe you should go build one and see.

As for a girdle we have seen no reason to add one but if done properly it's not going to hurt anything. As far as making 1000 Hp they will do it without one just fine. If you plan to offset gring the stock crankshaft you can go 1/4" up or down by dropping the rod bearings down to a BB chevy rod size. Make sure you get the crankshaft rehardened and nitrated when doing it. We've built several at +1/4" and one at -1/4" stroke. The +1/4" with a +.060 bore gets you 441 cu. in.
 
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sweetdiesel said:
If he said that? I don't agree either.

However I don't believe a balanced motor is what we need.... I'm going with a offset this time around.


I think wade that you will find some damage on the bearings, it not as simple as a good balance. Jmho
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It is Weight and ballance issue's.
 
Diesel Tech said:
Well Wade just goes to show that you have not seen an internal balanced Duramax crankshaft for a steel rod motor! You need to take the counterweights and make swiss cheese out of them to try and get enough heavy metal in them and when you remove all that parent material it is much weaker as there is not much left of the original counter weights. Then what have you done to the NVH that no one has bothered to look into. The damper will have to be changed as well. As I said weaker and not worth the trouble for what the OP is asking for.

Now were not talking about an aluminum rod motor which requires much less weight to start with and the fact that you have R&R aluminum rods in a motor you did not build doesn't compare. So before you go sticking your foot in your mouth again maybe you should go build one and see.

As for a girdle we have seen no reason to add one but if done properly it's not going to hurt anything. As far as making 1000 Hp they will do it without one just fine. If you plan to offset gring the stock crankshaft you can go 1/4" up or down by dropping the rod bearings down to a BB chevy rod size. Make sure you get the crankshaft rehardened and nitrated when doing it. We've built several at +1/4" and one at -1/4" stroke. The +1/4" with a +.060 bore gets you 441 cu. in.
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With all due respect, Your Wrong again..

I've done three steel rodded engines internal and they accually needed less malory than the aluminum rodded engines needed....These cranks are designed for steel rods and external ballance jobs, thats a fact.

With that in mind what you think will work is not the case, is it hard to do yes, but it's certainly not a waste of time, the bearing taken out of any of my internal builds look great almost perfect.

And know i dont need to re-nitrate the crank eather it only serves as a surface hardner which a race engine does not need, it's run time is very limited, nitration is designed for run time over 100k, also the nitraition i feel is part of the problem with the brittle type failure were seeing, with the surface being so hard the coar cant flex and "give" like it's designed to, compounded with a bad external ballance and heavy recipricating parts they break.

Oh yea Steve i build and rebuild all my own engines, and have done some for yours and others X customers as well...

Come to think about it you and guy tripp were one of the first to tell me that aluminum rods would never work, funny how facts and results have proved you both wrong... No wonder you too dont work together anymore your both too much alike....
 
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That's real funny Wade as I was one of the ones involved in your Aluminum rods and motor to begin with and you were no where around for it other than to supply the money! You go right ahead and keep dreaming that you have to add more weight to the crankshaft when switching to Aluminum rods. When you change the stroke of the crankshaft by offset grinding it, it has to be rehardened and should be nitrated as well but if you want to cheap out that's up to you. The simple truth is you did not handle any of this for your own motor and there are several of us that were involved that already know that. I've never said a thing about using Aluminum rods other than they are not for use in a street application and that's just a simple fact. A race vehicle only is another story, so you need to get your facts straight but you never do, so why change now!

If you indeed have done three steel rod Duramax STROKER motors and you needed to add more heavy metal to the stock offset ground crankshaft for those then the the aluminum rod motor you need to go back to school to learn how to balance. The stroker motors we've done and left external balance required NO heavy metal at all! When we setup for an internal balance it required to swiss cheese the counter weights to allow for enough heavy metal and that's not worth doing in any motor!

As far as you rebuilding an engine it easy once all the design and manufacturing of the parts has already been done for you. You can teach a monkey to unbolt and bolt all the parts together, but, I would not want one designing and fitting them together for me, guess that's why you paid others to get it done for you.
 
Diesel Tech said:
That's real funny Wade as I was one of the ones involved in your Aluminum rods and motor to begin with and you were no where around for it other than to supply the money! You go right ahead and keep dreaming that you have to add more weight to the crankshaft when switching to Aluminum rods. When you change the stroke of the crankshaft by offset grinding it, it has to be rehardened and should be nitrated as well but if you want to cheap out that's up to you. The simple truth is you did not handle any of this for your own motor and there are several of us that were involved that already know that. I've never said a thing about using Aluminum rods other than they are not for use in a street application and that's just a simple fact. A race vehicle only is another story, so you need to get your facts straight but you never do, so why change now!

If you indeed have done three steel rod Duramax STROKER motors and you needed to add more heavy metal to the stock offset ground crankshaft for those then the the aluminum rod motor you need to go back to school to learn how to balance. The stroker motors we've done and left external balance required NO heavy metal at all! When we setup for an internal balance it required to swiss cheese the counter weights to allow for enough heavy metal and that's not worth doing in any motor!

As far as you rebuilding an engine it easy once all the design and manufacturing of the parts has already been done for you. You can teach a monkey to unbolt and bolt all the parts together, but, I would not want one designing and fitting them together for me, guess that's why you paid others to get it done for you.
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It's obvious you have gone out on the deep end, but thats been the case for years from what others say. I had everything to do with this build from consecption to completion, YOU Had nothing to do with this...all the demensions and clearances length/ width, Small end big end everything came from me after countless hours trying to get every thing to work. matter of fact i bet you did not know i orded the first two pieces as a mock up untill i got it right....There are too many folks on here that witnessed me putting this together with there own eyes, your full of crap!

Stroker motor....I've never built one nore would i ever. Thats what beginers do to pull stumps out of the ground....or sled pull old school style. REAL builders do just the opposite with turbo motors, but i guess what they say is true you never really built anything, so you still a beginer at this.

Now your trying to claim my work? The only piece of work here is you!
 
You know how to piss someone off, thats a fact.

Here ya go tell me in the next 5 minutes what the exact specs on my rods are since you mysteriously had something to do with them.....BET you cant!

Width, Legth, Big end bore, Small end bore thickness, Rod bolts used, Rod length, Weight.


Come on Einstein, no time to dream this up.....No time to wait untill monday....in your own little world you did this remember....LOL

Your a phoney looking to claim My successful build and we all know it. The joke's on you!
 
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