What you guys running for rods in the LLY engines?

The rods just bend or they get thrown? Would a gridle help keeping everything together.

Just took for granted that a duramax could handle 1000rwhp.

They bend and can possibly put a hole in your block if you dont catch it in time. The girdle helps with Crank walk and will not change anything as far as Rod strength.. With stock LLY rods you are pretty limited to around 600whp before rods start shortening..... Now BAck to the Steve / Wade Banter :pop:
 
I want to run big block chevy rods, at least they are cheap, don't care if the motor is a time bomb. Just don't want to spend a chit load of cash on stuff that will break anyways.
 
I want to run big block chevy rods, at least they are cheap, don't care if the motor is a time bomb. Just don't want to spend a chit load of cash on stuff that will break anyways.

Or a better Idea since you got 2 LLY engines for free and from the sounds of things are just going to destroy them, How about selling them to me and atleast making a couple bucks?
 
:blahblah1:
That's real funny Wade as I was one of the ones involved in your Aluminum rods and motor to begin with and you were no where around for it other than to supply the money! You go right ahead and keep dreaming that you have to add more weight to the crankshaft when switching to Aluminum rods. When you change the stroke of the crankshaft by offset grinding it, it has to be rehardened and should be nitrated as well but if you want to cheap out that's up to you. The simple truth is you did not handle any of this for your own motor and there are several of us that were involved that already know that. I've never said a thing about using Aluminum rods other than they are not for use in a street application and that's just a simple fact. A race vehicle only is another story, so you need to get your facts straight but you never do, so why change now!

If you indeed have done three steel rod Duramax STROKER motors and you needed to add more heavy metal to the stock offset ground crankshaft for those then the the aluminum rod motor you need to go back to school to learn how to balance. The stroker motors we've done and left external balance required NO heavy metal at all! When we setup for an internal balance it required to swiss cheese the counter weights to allow for enough heavy metal and that's not worth doing in any motor!

As far as you rebuilding an engine it easy once all the design and manufacturing of the parts has already been done for you. You can teach a monkey to unbolt and bolt all the parts together, but, I would not want one designing and fitting them together for me, guess that's why you paid others to get it done for you.

hey man i work for wade and i dont remeber you ever seeing in our shop nor ever hearing wade speak to you on the phone about this motor but we currently have a dmax built going on right now so please feel free to stop by show me how its done. Or do we already have engine parts on the way from you that wade and i dont know about. :blahblah1::blahblah1::blahblah1:
 
Or a better Idea since you got 2 LLY engines for free and from the sounds of things are just going to destroy them, How about selling them to me and atleast making a couple bucks?

My brother just gave me two of them, not about to dump tons of cash into a freebie. If the rods come out, so what. Hopefully when it happens I will be going fast at something.:Cheer:

Worst case I can throw a cummins into the truck:evil
 
Steve, back to the origonal topic here, how( as you stated) Can drilling the counter weight to add mallory make the crank mains or rod throws any weaker....LOL

And your the mastermind behind my rods?....:umno:


PS you better stick to external ballance jobs, mainly because Chimps can perform them..:poke: Internal ballance is apparently out of your league :doh:


Oh yea just to make you look even more stupid, my crank with aluminum rods took (15) slugs of mallory....Yea you read that right:owned:
 
Last edited:
I want to run big block chevy rods, at least they are cheap, don't care if the motor is a time bomb. Just don't want to spend a chit load of cash on stuff that will break anyways.

Used LMM or LBZ rods will last longer than the initial startup though. BB rods arent made for this kind of tq if they even would fit.
 
Wade and steve you guys seem to have the most experience with these balance jobs

What is you opinion with these cranks breaking or even damaged bearings?

I've seen many broken cranks and they seem to break in the same place.... Not just high hp trucks either! My crank had sighns that it wasn't going to make many more passes either.

I would like to believe it's just a good balance job.... But I'm hard pressed to believe this since I've seen good balance work and not work.

Do you guys think that being balanced different to compensate for the weight on the front accessory will help?


Curious to hear your opinions since you both have built some pretty good stuff or atleast been around it!

I'm fine with changing main bearings every year, but if you men think you have a better idea I would love to hear it
 
I going to build-up a decent street LLY engine. Been curious is the stock rod and crank set-up can handle a 1000rwhp, or you have to get aftermarket rods and crank?

Anybody making a gridle or a device to reforce the mains for the crank. I plan on using some spray.

This is my first duramax engine build, so I would like to make sure its a




You needs rods.....
 
Last edited:
Sure that there are a few alcohol big blocks out there pushing way more power than a duramax or cummins, running a big blower.

What options are there for aftermarket pistons for a duramax? Can you get bigger bowls and different designs?
 
:blahblah1:

hey man i work for wade and i dont remeber you ever seeing in our shop nor ever hearing wade speak to you on the phone about this motor but we currently have a dmax built going on right now so please feel free to stop by show me how its done. Or do we already have engine parts on the way from you that wade and i dont know about. :blahblah1::blahblah1::blahblah1:

You may work for Wade but the motor was not done by Wade at all. Mike Schelton of Small Blocks Unlimited (the same guy that sold Wade the Lenco setup) did the motor design for him. Wade supplied the money. Mike worked with another Mike and myself for the design of the rod/piston combination for the motor. It was no big deal but the way that Wade is trying to tell this is BS! Wade has been a teller of tall tails for years and everyone knows it and he is at it again. :blahblah1::blahblah1::blahblah1:

As far as coming to the shop you are correct I’ve never been there, nor do I plan to be, but that has nothing to do with what I know about the motor or rod/piston combination in it.

Anyone who would like Aluminum rods for a Duramax built the same as the ones in Wades motor is free to contact us as it seems Wade thinks we know nothing about them. They use custom pistons as the wrist pin size was dropped to a Hemi pin size 1.156”, crank pin size is BB chevy and the rod length is longer since his was destroked at 6.535” from the stock length of 6. 419”. So basically you have a BB Chevy rod with a Chrysler Hemi wrist pin in it. They run $2195 a set and take about 8 weeks from order date to make. You also cannot fit an Aluminum rod in the motor with a stock crank pin size as there is not enough room.
As I've clearly stated before you have to make the crankshaft counter weights like Swiss cheese to get enough heavy metal to do an internal balance job and Wade you just admitted what I said. Now if you’re not smart enough to realize that cutting all that parent material out of the crankshaft and installing a soft heavy metal weakens it, that’s your problem not mine! :badidea: Just think, yours was only with Aluminum rods, now add more weight with steel rods and the problem get worse, use an LBZ crankshaft and it get worse again due to those crankshafts using more external weight to start with!

Simon

We have not had any issues with bearings in our race engines; they are checked once per season, no girdle, no internal balance. Believe it or not we use just a well setup block with main studs and a good balance job using the stock damper. We do replace the damper about once a year or whenever the rubber starts to look bad. We have had one crankshaft crack after three seasons of racing it but if you race, that is expected. We tear the engines down every season and the crankshaft is crack checked at that time.

Mike Holmen

We can get them made up pretty much however you want. Compression ratio's from 14:1 to 19:1 with bores ranging from 4.055" - 4.185"
 
Wade

Just so you do not think I left something out I forgot to mention that your rods also used ARP L19 rod bolts. :owned:
 
You may work for Wade but the motor was not done by Wade at all. Mike Schelton of Small Blocks Unlimited (the same guy that sold Wade the Lenco setup) did the motor design for him. Wade supplied the money. Mike worked with another Mike and myself for the design of the rod/piston combination for the motor. It was no big deal but the way that Wade is trying to tell this is BS! Wade has been a teller of tall tails for years and everyone knows it and he is at it again. :blahblah1::blahblah1::blahblah1:

As far as coming to the shop you are correct I’ve never been there, nor do I plan to be, but that has nothing to do with what I know about the motor or rod/piston combination in it.

Anyone who would like Aluminum rods for a Duramax built the same as the ones in Wades motor is free to contact us as it seems Wade thinks we know nothing about them. They use custom pistons as the wrist pin size was dropped to a Hemi pin size 1.156”, crank pin size is BB chevy and the rod length is longer since his was destroked at 6.535” from the stock length of 6. 419”. So basically you have a BB Chevy rod with a Chrysler Hemi wrist pin in it. They run $2195 a set and take about 8 weeks from order date to make. You also cannot fit an Aluminum rod in the motor with a stock crank pin size as there is not enough room.
As I've clearly stated before you have to make the crankshaft counter weights like Swiss cheese to get enough heavy metal to do an internal balance job and Wade you just admitted what I said. Now if you’re not smart enough to realize that cutting all that parent material out of the crankshaft and installing a soft heavy metal weakens it, that’s your problem not mine! :badidea: Just think, yours was only with Aluminum rods, now add more weight with steel rods and the problem get worse, use an LBZ crankshaft and it get worse again due to those crankshafts using more external weight to start with!

Simon

We have not had any issues with bearings in our race engines; they are checked once per season, no girdle, no internal balance. Believe it or not we use just a well setup block with main studs and a good balance job using the stock damper. We do replace the damper about once a year or whenever the rubber starts to look bad. We have had one crankshaft crack after three seasons of racing it but if you race, that is expected. We tear the engines down every season and the crankshaft is crack checked at that time.

Mike Holmen

We can get them made up pretty much however you want. Compression ratio's from 14:1 to 19:1 with bores ranging from 4.055" - 4.185"

BS!!!!!!!

You are lost son.

Mike sold me the lenco and sold me the rods @ dealer cost, i gave a design blueprint to mike shelton and he faxed them to the other mike and he made them exactly the way i requested.....You are a idiot to belive otherwise:doh:

And your specs are STILL wrong you dont know **** about this build....:redx:

Crank was destroked to 3.650 and the rod length is 6.545....Yet you built these....LOL Your a tard that needs attention.

Where are the other specs i asked you for????????? Oh thats right you have no idea because you had NOTHING to do with this build!


Your idea that internal ballance weakens the crank is again, like everything else you spew WRONG. Why does the most powerfull engines in the world run internal ballance engines????

Did you mom or dad pass on to you ANY Common sence.....:nail:


Oh year ****face, why after TWO YEARS of this engine build completion would you Try to claim this now??? Bussines slow? Pay checks small? Penis small????
Your a Fraud, a Phoney,a Wanna Be innovator, Copy cat, your a fricken FAG....

OH yea Steve you dont design nothin i talk to most of the industry and they laugh at you. All the steel Rods you relable were designed/ built by Mike @ R&R, NOT YOU! Unlike you i get things made from MY designs and innovate FIRSTS, which you would know nothing about. Matter of fact i bet i have more first to markets than you have copyied products.....

You can try your best here to defame the truth, but there are way to many who know the truth and YOU LOSE! Go find someone else's ideas to "Claim", Queerbate.

Steve riding the coatail of a innovator will do nothing for you but get you dirty.
 
Wade

Super Stud I tryed to click on your web link to check out that awsome shop and it redirects you. Is there a problem with the link? #1 Fan
 
Wade

Riding your coat tail is something no one would ever want to do, at least if they were in there right mind. As for the rest of your BS it's just that BS. You didn't design **** and everyone knows it but just keep diggin that hole deeper. Sooner or later you will do what you always do and the roof will cave in, like always. As for making a claim of building the motor I've never said it nor will I ever as I did not do it. What I did say is I was involved in the piston/rod design which is the truth. I said who designed it and now you have at least given him some of the credit. I wonder how I would have know just who it was if I wasn't involved as you try and make out. Yes, I've waited for 2 years for you to come tell the truth but I can see now I should have spoke up long ago, I did have some hope that you would grow up and grow a pair and give credit to Mike for the motor design but I can see now that's not going to happen.

BTW if the rods are now at 6.545 you had better order a new set as they have stretched by .010 and that's what Aluminum rods do as they age. Let see after two years and what maybe 20 passes the rods have stretched if we believe your numbers. A top fuel car replaces the AL. rods every 20 passes, an alcohol car every 20 - 40 passes and a good running diesel on NOS has cylinder pressure numbers in the same range as a Top fuel car.
 
Super Stud I tryed to click on your web link to check out that awsome shop and it redirects you. Is there a problem with the link? #1 Fan


Fixed.
Wade

Riding your coat tail is something no one would ever want to do, at least if they were in there right mind. As for the rest of your BS it's just that BS. You didn't design **** and everyone knows it but just keep diggin that hole deeper. Sooner or later you will do what you always do and the roof will cave in, like always. As for making a claim of building the motor I've never said it nor will I ever as I did not do it. What I did say is I was involved in the piston/rod design which is the truth. I said who designed it and now you have at least given him some of the credit. I wonder how I would have know just who it was if I wasn't involved as you try and make out. Yes, I've waited for 2 years for you to come tell the truth but I can see now I should have spoke up long ago, I did have some hope that you would grow up and grow a pair and give credit to Mike for the motor design but I can see now that's not going to happen.

BTW if the rods are now at 6.545 you had better order a new set as they have stretched by .010 and that's what Aluminum rods do as they age. Let see after two years and what maybe 20 passes the rods have stretched if we believe your numbers. A top fuel car replaces the AL. rods every 20 passes, an alcohol car every 20 - 40 passes and a good running diesel on NOS has cylinder pressure numbers in the same range as a Top fuel car.

Keep dreaming steve....:blahblah1::blahblah1::blahblah1::bs::bs:
 
Back
Top