Whats the Best fix for this?? Small Freeze Plugs??

:hehe: Well I guess a fool and his money are soon parted......:hehe::kick:


j/k dude.:Cheer:


LOL

SOON parted my A$$.....That started a LONG time ago with the Interceptor!!

Well, at least I not wasting money on Meth and Crack like most of the Tards I put in Jail daily!!!

This diesel addiction is DRUG like Though!!!!! :bang


:Cheer:
 
Well, Last Friday I went to the track to see what was up....Still have a power loss issue but that's beside the point right now..

After my 3rd pass, I noticed the water temp. climbing up pretty good...I knew something was up cause my truck never does that....Parked it and looked under the truck and had MAJOR blow by.....Took the oil cap off and samething...Ugh!!

Had it towed to Jeff's and spent the night there...Next morning I pulled the VC and injectors out....Bore Scoped it and THOUGHT it looked like I had 2 melted pistons....#1 & #3 looked wierd...

Just pulled the Head off Wed. and come to find out, ALL the pistons were fine and the HG was Perfect!!! (Still stock bolts BTW).....BUT, I blew out one of those little Freeze Plugs inside the head and that dumped a Chit load of Antifreeze into my motor!!! Thank God I had it towed!!!

What the best fix for this to not happen again??? It was on Cyl. #5 I think...Just above the Exhaust port!! Jeff thinks that since the metal is So thin there at the exhaust port that those are getting WAY hot and thats why it came loose..not from the pressure really ...My truck doesn't turn much above 3600-3700 rpms...

Jeff had and Idea about Tapping those openings and putting a threaded plug in there!! What do you think???
I heard that Tim Barber may have done this before but it wasn't cost affective....

I'd love to fix it soon ( least amount of money Poss)....So I can maybe make the Race in Sept. with NADM here in Reynolds GA...

Suggestions??



On the flushing side of it.....

With a new filter use a mix of 2 parts Butyl Cellosolve to 1 part 10 weight oil, for the first fill, high idle for 30 mins, then drain.

Again new filter, fill again with 10 weight oil, 20 mins high idle then drain.

Fill with what you normally use.

(The best flush solution would be to use a external pump and circulate this mix with engine not running first.)


You have a good chance if you shut it off hot and it hasn't run again cold with the glycol in the crankcase.

*******If it was started again, after it cooled down and run with a load with the glycol gelled up in the bearings, its time to pull the engine.****


(While your at it...)I'd give those stock bolts back to Garmon, and get some 625's there is no comparison in holding power.

I don't feel real good about the chances the bottom end will make it, but here's too hoping for the best.....:Cheer:
 
On the flushing side of it.....

With a new filter use a mix of 2 parts Butyl Cellosolve to 1 part 10 weight oil, for the first fill, high idle for 30 mins, then drain.

Again new filter, fill again with 10 weight oil, 20 mins high idle then drain.

Fill with what you normally use.

(The best flush solution would be to use a external pump and circulate this mix with engine not running first.)


You have a good chance if you shut it off hot and it hasn't run again cold with the glycol in the crankcase.

*******If it was started again, after it cooled down and run with a load with the glycol gelled up in the bearings, its time to pull the engine.****


(While your at it...)I'd give those stock bolts back to Garmon, and get some 625's there is no comparison in holding power.

I don't feel real good about the chances the bottom end will make it, but here's too hoping for the best.....:Cheer:


AH!! MAN!!! YOUR HURTING MY FEELINGS!!!!! :bang

Please Just tell me it's going to be OK!!!! lol




:bang Well, I'd Love to tell ya that it wasn't cranked again cold but it was.....We parked it outside the shop that night I had it towed and then cranked it in the morn. to pull it into the bay......:bang But it was just idling...No load..



Well, it's worth a try!! Where do I get that Butyl Cellosolve??? Never heard of it.....

Thanks for the suggestions on flushing though!!!

BTW, I'm am considering the 625's now just for the future!! I'm tired of working on the dang thing.....The Stock Bolts were holding just fine and I think we proved our point but I'm probably going with 625's this time....

Just trying to find the best price on a set....Feel free to PM me if your a dealer....Let me warn ya now though...I'm cheap!! LOL
 
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Pretty sure Amsoil engine flush has it in it, not sure of the concentration.

I have a old bottle of it on the shelf from a local painting outfit. Not sure if you have "Acklands" down there....

Get the STUDS!!!
 
IMO, once you torque down a set of 625's you never want to use anything else. Make sure you bottom tap before installing the studs. Actually I run a taper tap first and then bottom tap.

While you have your head off, check for any hair line cracks between the threaded head bolt holes and the water jacket in the block.

Sorry about all of your problems. Keep after it though, and you'll come out in the end.

Paul
 
Anyone looking to clean the inside of there engine.
AUTO RX amazing stuff!!!!
 
IMO, once you torque down a set of 625's you never want to use anything else. Make sure you bottom tap before installing the studs. Actually I run a taper tap first and then bottom tap.

While you have your head off, check for any hair line cracks between the threaded head bolt holes and the water jacket in the block.

Sorry about all of your problems. Keep after it though, and you'll come out in the end.

Paul


Thank you Sir for the advice and kind words!!

We'll keep ya posted..
 
ONE single run. They took my s06 Smarty and changed my tune on it to the 3500 rpm tune and took the truck out on ONE single run to 3500 rpms while the engine was cold and Voila!! "F'd" up my engine and everything you read about. ONE single run!!! A Cummins engineer told me those plugs have to heat up during the warm up process,.. they expand and you have a good seal. If you take the truck out and run it balls out with all the stuff I had on the truck when it's cold,.. and mine was cold as they were working on a couple electrical problems without the truck having been running at all,.. then you stand a high probability of blowing those plugs.

That friggin' antifreeze will KILL bearings. When they tore it down antifreeze was throughout the entire engine and turbos/intercooler with oil and antifreeze mixed. The crankcase area was expanded to the entire engine when you have everything pumped into the block. I'm talking nightmarish disaster here.

did you tell them to do that or they went out and done it at a shop without you knowing it? I was told a long time ago never to run it hard when its cold wait til it gets warm before you pound on it with any engine for that matter
 
IMO, once you torque down a set of 625's you never want to use anything else. Make sure you bottom tap before installing the studs. Actually I run a taper tap first and then bottom tap.

While you have your head off, check for any hair line cracks between the threaded head bolt holes and the water jacket in the block.

Sorry about all of your problems. Keep after it though, and you'll come out in the end.

Paul


That is the truth right there, torque up a set of 625's and you know you've got something holding that head down.

Back off a set of stock bolts from the factory and you'll wonder how they ever held anything.

X2 you'll win in the end.
 
That is the truth right there, torque up a set of 625's and you know you've got something holding that head down.

Back off a set of stock bolts from the factory and you'll wonder how they ever held anything.

X2 you'll win in the end.



625's Are ON the Way!!!!!:rockwoot:




BTW, Anyone ever heard of using Diesel Fuel as a Cleaning / Flushing Agent ???

Jeff says we'll fill the engine with 3 gallons of Diesel and let it high-idle for just a few minutes to flush it.......Fill with Reg Oil and a new filter about twice and do short runs / idling......Then Fill with my Schaefers 7000 and F1 ZDDP.....And that should do it!!!

We'll See!!!
 
625's Are ON the Way!!!!!:rockwoot:




BTW, Anyone ever heard of using Diesel Fuel as a Cleaning / Flushing Agent ???

Jeff says we'll fill the engine with 3 gallons of Diesel and let it high-idle for just a few minutes to flush it.......Fill with Reg Oil and a new filter about twice and do short runs / idling......Then Fill with my Schaefers 7000 and F1 ZDDP.....And that should do it!!!

We'll See!!!

Why Schaeffers 7000 when they came out with the 9000?

And for head studs, I would try Brown's Diesel. I am going there tomorrow to buy my set.

Also, good luck however it turns out. We all have to pay to play. Trust me, sometimes I think I should by another 03-04 Cobra and Procharge it, then be done with it.
 
Why Schaeffers 7000 when they came out with the 9000?

And for head studs, I would try Brown's Diesel. I am going there tomorrow to buy my set.

Also, good luck however it turns out. We all have to pay to play. Trust me, sometimes I think I should by another 03-04 Cobra and Procharge it, then be done with it.


As for the 7000, my desicion was based on some personal testing that Darren Morrison (Quarterman) did on this oil...Really great results...

I add F1 diesel ZDDP to make it even better...

Studs are already on the way...Thanks for the suggestion though..
 
I agree.... full synthetic isn't always the best way to go. I like the fact 7000 is some what half and half
 
Just received my Dr. P threaded freeze plug kit for inside the head....Hoping to install it tmrw...Will keep you guys posted....

Thanks again MikeD for Dr. P!!
 
I popped a freeze plug on mine under valve cover sled pulling last year. Used sleeve retainer to put it back in. 2 pulls later popped the one next to it. Pulled head to tap and discovered a couple of little cracks on exhuast side. Tapped new head and installed opies by-pass. No problems in over a year. We did drain motor right away then engine flushed it twice, the radiator was the worst. The first time we used radiator flush the second time just used dawn a couple of cycle. Dawn seemed to work about the best. Check the head real good for cracks.
 
I popped a freeze plug on mine under valve cover sled pulling last year. Used sleeve retainer to put it back in. 2 pulls later popped the one next to it. Pulled head to tap and discovered a couple of little cracks on exhuast side. Tapped new head and installed opies by-pass. No problems in over a year. We did drain motor right away then engine flushed it twice, the radiator was the worst. The first time we used radiator flush the second time just used dawn a couple of cycle. Dawn seemed to work about the best. Check the head real good for cracks.



I didn't see any cracks...I dang sure hope I didn't miss'm!! Heads already torqued back down...

I still need to get a by pass.. Just trying to decide the best / cost effective one...

Not sure about the radiator yet...How can I tell if it was contaminated?? Gonna run straight water through it the first few times and see what comes out...

Thanks
 
I didn't see any cracks...I dang sure hope I didn't miss'm!! Heads already torqued back down...

I still need to get a by pass.. Just trying to decide the best / cost effective one...

Not sure about the radiator yet...How can I tell if it was contaminated?? Gonna run straight water through it the first few times and see what comes out...

Thanks

I blew one of those small plugs under the valve cover as well. I didn't find any coolant in the oil, but I did find oil in the coolant. The oil should float to the top, so check your radiator cap and your overflow tank. I brought my truck to my friend's shop and they have a machine that flushes your coolant system. I did that twice and there's no traces of oil anymore.

Is there a link to the Dr. Performance threaded freeze plug kit? Mine happened just after I put my new head on but there shouldn't have been any additional pressure, mine just looked like it wasn't seated correctly when the factory assembled it. Shoulda looked closer upon installation I guess. The threaded freeze plug kit seems like good insurance though.
 
I blew one of those small plugs under the valve cover as well. I didn't find any coolant in the oil, but I did find oil in the coolant. The oil should float to the top, so check your radiator cap and your overflow tank. I brought my truck to my friend's shop and they have a machine that flushes your coolant system. I did that twice and there's no traces of oil anymore.

Is there a link to the Dr. Performance threaded freeze plug kit? Mine happened just after I put my new head on but there shouldn't have been any additional pressure, mine just looked like it wasn't seated correctly when the factory assembled it. Shoulda looked closer upon installation I guess. The threaded freeze plug kit seems like good insurance though.

Yeah, there was an advistisment thread on here for it...I'll see If I can find it for ya!!

Or, Just contact MIKE DOSS at Dr. P 877-338-7373 or doss@drperformance.com

Just tell him Big Swole sent ya and he'll charge ya Double!!!! LOL
J/K......Mike's good people!!

Totally Worth it for insurance purposes!!!!

Not sure how you were lucky enough not to get any coolant in the motor though!!!!! Man, with all that pressure it just flooded my motor....
When I drained the pan, It was clear ORANGE for the first minute.Then the oil started to mix in!!! :bang:bang:bang:bang

Not a good feeling.....
 
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