Where to by Water to air Intercooler

seeker1056 said:
Thoughts - I have been running one of the cheapies for three years - and it flat out works

No, i dont make over the rated 80 psi boost rating on it, but then neither do 97% of most pullers on here. So does one pay $800 for a name brand, or $80 for an Australian or China piece. I bet they both get thier cores from the same manufacturer, which is still probably chinese

efficiency rating wether pressure drop, or cooling limits are subjective at best - because it depends on who was testing it and at what air and water pressures, boost pressures etc etc etc

Considering an air to air doesnt do much of anything at 10-28 mph on the track, except heat soak, I would think any air temp reduction would be beneficial

I know my water/air will pull temps down to almost ambient with the current setup with two heat exchangers, one that is fan cooled, one that is ice cooled

i would suggest that you buy what you can afford, because some air temp reduction is better than none

I think with the water pump, the w/a, the AN lines and fittings and two exchangers i might have $250 tied up in the whole setup

Ryan - yes the larger w/a will do a better job if you have the room for it. The only thing will change is the boost pressure drop from the 2 psi or so for the 4x6x12 core to about 5-6 psi on the 4x10 x12 cores that are regularly advertised
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did you get all of these parts for your intercooler off of ebay or where did you get them? i saw the link for ebay but didnt know if there was anywhere else you get them. thanks
 
Thats about the closest pic I have of it. I don't have any under the hood pics. But I run 2 intercoolers, 2 holding tanks of ice/water, and to pumps. This gives each cooler the best possible cooling. You can see the top of one of the intercoolers on the lower right. Next to the fuel tank. The other one is directly across from it on the other side. Sorry my pics suck.
 
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i would really like to know if that kit from ebay would do some good.. haha i wanna buy it just to try.
 
i wanna know if that one from ebay really works... i wanna buy it just to try haha
 
heres a place http://www.siliconeintakes.com/index.php?cPath=7&osCsid=b5f1751b417a4bde17fee531e87ea9d7

whole kit with exchanger is 450 or so,.

RyanB
Anyway, just curious to what makes these cheaper units differ from the turbonetics unit listed on Garrets site? Also, the core's in these a/w IC's are quite a bit smaller in cubic inches than the typical aftermarket intercooler most have ran in the past. Is there a point when forcing freezing cold water thru these cores that you just can't cool the air anymore? Just curious if an even larger core could bring the intake air temp down even more while still using the same amount of cooling (bags of ice) as the smaller systems do.
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they are smaller because they are a huge deal more efficient, the water pulls heat off the aluminum better than air, and as was stated above too cold can hinder performance. the trick is to cool as much air as possible down to a consistent temp throughout the range of power..
my $.02
 
Well never tried them but don't cut yourself short on cheap parts. Spend the money and get a cooler and pump. Grainger has some very big pumps that work great. Would you buy a full blown race pump off the net for $1000 cause it was a hell of a deal from a place you knew nothing about? I guess if you have a few hundred extra dollars and can take that chance its no big deal.
 
2Tone12V said:
Well never tried them but don't cut yourself short on cheap parts. Spend the money and get a cooler and pump. Grainger has some very big pumps that work great. Would you buy a full blown race pump off the net for $1000 cause it was a hell of a deal from a place you knew nothing about? I guess if you have a few hundred extra dollars and can take that chance its no big deal.
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I understand what you mean. Good way to put it. Just curious. Just getting info before I go throwing $$$ away for things that I wont be happy with.
 
we have the frozenboost cooler on three trucks with no problems. i have datalogs showing the cooling as well, takes 450 down to under 100 every pull. this is with the second biggest one they have. first pull i forgot to turn the pump on and the cooler survived.
 
well keep in mind that if you put too big a pump on it and the water is flowin too fast to do a good job of taking the heat away that you are not gettin the most from your equipment. The pump needs to be matched to the size of the intercooler and the heat exchanger in order to do the best job

You can buy a Ford/bosch water pump for like $85 that Ford probably spent millions testing to make sure it flowed "just right" or you can buy a grainger or other unknown pump and maybe get the best performance.

I always get a kick out of the people who beleive that if they didnt pay through the nose to some "known supplier" that the item, whatever it is, is "junk"

Given that the known supplier and the no name are usually sourcing the product(s) or component part(s) from the same place - I will keep most of my money in my pocket, and buy the cheaper brand

Like i said - I got 3 years on "cheap" stuff with no issues in sight - and yet almost every day one can go on the various turbo/tuner/diesel/race sites, and see someone whinin they lost another expensive "name" part for one reason or another.

if your pockets are not deep, and you have important things like motor parts and turbos to buy - it would be my suggestion that you spend your money there first , and then buy the intercooler you can afford after, cuz if you get three years outa a $290 setup, your still way ahead, even if you have to replace a part or two

but then it isnt my money........... ;o)
 
well keep in mind that if you put too big a pump on it and the water is flowin too fast to do a good job of taking the heat away that you are not gettin the most from your equipment. The pump needs to be matched to the size of the intercooler and the heat exchanger in order to do the best job.So if it is flowing the coldest possible water at all times. That would mean everything is covered at all times with the coldest water. Correct? In the case of water/air. To much flow is never enough. Pressure, yes. Flow no. Faster that water moves in and moves out. The colder things stay.

You can buy a Ford/bosch water pump for like $85 that Ford probably spent millions testing to make sure it flowed "just right" or you can buy a grainger or other unknown pump and maybe get the best performance.Well as for the grainger and unknown pump that maybe will work. I've used them. Harts Diesel uses them on all of their 2000+hp tractors. THEY WORK.

I always get a kick out of the people who beleive that if they didnt pay through the nose to some "known supplier" that the item, whatever it is, is "junk"

Given that the known supplier and the no name are usually sourcing the product(s) or component part(s) from the same place - I will keep most of my money in my pocket, and buy the cheaper brand

Like i said - I got 3 years on "cheap" stuff with no issues in sight - and yet almost every day one can go on the various turbo/tuner/diesel/race sites, and see someone whinin they lost another expensive "name" part for one reason or another.

if your pockets are not deep, and you have important things like motor parts and turbos to buy - it would be my suggestion that you spend your money there first , and then buy the intercooler you can afford after, cuz if you get three years outa a $290 setup, your still way ahead, even if you have to replace a part or two

but then it isnt my money........... ;o)So what happens when you buy that cheap a$$ intercooler and it doesn't work?? Then you have wasted that money and have to buy the "name" brand anyhow. Were not talking thousands of $$$. Were talking $50-$100. Get you a part that is known for working and don't worry about it.
 
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Mr twotone
You can have all the cold water you like -if it is goin thru the intercooler too fast, it is not picking up as much latent heat from the core as it would if it was going the correct speed for the size of the core - you can argue till ur blue but the physics of it wont change

Wether the grainger pumps water fast or not - is irrelevent - so do many others - including the Bosch unit, my point is what is too fast - and everyone has thier own favorite. Yes they all push water - but do they push em the best - you personally have no idea or empirical proof of performance like Ford does for what really works ie for the bosch pump - just because you or a particular shop uses one particular pump does not make it the "best" choice, it only makes it thier/your choice - so end of storey

considerin the cheaper units have already been proven to work by many people in many many applications , I dont understand where your comin from - just because this is a diesel application means didley for the performance of the parts

the gentleman who started this thread wanted to knwo what he had for choices - you have told him what you beleive - I told him what works for me and others - it does not make it right or wrong - it just makes it a choice

However before this becomes another sandbox - pissin contest - I am done here
 
not sure if i agree on two fast is no good. all the pumps i have seen are bilge pumps for boats. i forgot the brand but they are submergable so you can mount all in the reservoir. the chiseledperformance unit is priced right if you can't weld your own.

i went to a 16volt battery to spin the pump faster (no alternator) and i thought it was slightly cooler but nothing stood out on the datalogger, i just slept easier.
 
Gona have to agree with seeker on that one. Just take the thermostat right out of an engine and see if it cools better... No, the engine will overheat because the water is moving too fast to absorb the heat. Its simple physics, stick your hand in an oven it takes a little while before you get burned
 
jupton said:
Gona have to agree with seeker on that one. Just take the thermostat right out of an engine and see if it cools better... No, the engine will overheat because the water is moving too fast to absorb the heat. Its simple physics, stick your hand in an oven it takes a little while before you get burned
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Can't say I've ever seen an engine overheat with no thermostat in it. The thermostat is open once it's at operating temp anyway... :what:

I do however see the theory that moving too much water too quickly could take away some efficiency of the air to water system but is it enough to make a noticeable difference?
 
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