Who is running a VGT on 2nd gen 24 Valve and how do you like it ????

Couple pics of connecting coolant lines, using M16x1.5 to -8AN adapter

VGTCoolantConnection2Post.jpg


VGTCoolantconnectionPost.jpg
 
Got the he351vgt finally on my 2002 and the Fleece hooked up. Just need to spend more time to get it tuned in better. Here are some pics.
 

Attachments

  • 135smaller.jpg
    135smaller.jpg
    99.8 KB · Views: 0
  • 136smaller.jpg
    136smaller.jpg
    102 KB · Views: 0
  • 137smaller.jpg
    137smaller.jpg
    95.4 KB · Views: 0
Got mine installed the other day too with Fleece controller. Turbo is having some issues though it's stucking shut on occasion.

One thing I found on tweaking the map is having it fairly open at light throttle then going tighter with increased throttle position for the next 2-3 lines which helps get it spooling. That way at light throttle restriction is lower for better MPG.

Vaughn
 
Hey guys that's cool you have yours up and running, please keep me posted on the tuning and overall performance gains you are seeing with the VGT set up ! THANKS
 
Anybody with a fleece controller mind to test how much boost you can get at how low of rpm?
thanks
 
been running mine for about a week, and so far i'm loving it. i see more boost out of this 351 than i ever saw with the hx35, comes on quicker too. i was scared at one point when i tried to load a table onto the fleece box and had a comm error. had to limp it home and use the desktop to fix it (i didn't have a table saved on the laptop!)

so far about 1.1 better mpg as well. we'll see if i can improve that.
 
Mine is OK except I think I have a bum turbo. For me there's a fine line between having enough boost to keep EGT ideal and closing it down too much and creating too much backpressure.

With this turbo when you're at the ideal boost level the drive pressure seems higher than what it would be for a standard turbo at the same boost level. I don't have a DP gauge so it's hard to say but it feels kinda bottled up.

The programming is a little tricky and takes a fair amount of trial and error but once set up it works well. It's built on throttle position vs RPM, and you fill the vane percentages in the table for each map point.

Right now I'm debating whether to find another turbo and hopefully it fixes it or bag it and go with something else. I've had quite a bit of trouble with the vanes always moving freely, but then it was a $100 eBay purchase so my expectations weren't that high in the first place.
Vaughn
 
Last edited:
tear it apart. i rebuilt mine before i put it on. the vanes were sticking when i got it, and there wasn't all much gunk in it either.
 
Yeah I'm going to do that, take it apart and work it over a little, just haven't had the time since May/June is busy time.
 
mind your business asshole

kazairl said:
It's just silly that people don't take the time to do a simple search about a subject that has tons of information on it. There are two big threads on this very subject of controlling the vanes mechanically. One is over 30 pages the other one is over 10 pages. All dealing with this subject.

It is not hard to find them either as the information is not that old.

Although I could have been more helpful I suppose.
Click to expand...

you dig
 
Blackdog said:
I'm with you on this one. I just can't justify it until I have heard more good comments on this swap. It does seem to me that this is a good swap for a mostly stock or not truck that performs towing.
Click to expand...
Try the 6.0L turbo. it's a 64 and according to fleece takes less electronics to go with. supposed to be a much better set up than using the 351 but only for 12V's
 
bna5017 said:
Do you have a 5.9 or a 6.7 manifold? If it's off of a 5.9, then you're going to need an adapter. You will also have to come up with something for a charge pipe. I made a pipe for my air filter, but your airbox may hook up.

As for an oil return line, I think the easiest thing to do would be to buy a flexible oil drain line.

Flexible Turbo Oil Drain



Edit: Also, the outlet on the HE351VE compressor housing is 2.75", HX-35 is 3". So you will need to get an adapter to go to the intercooler pipe.

2.75" to 3.00" Black Silicone Reducer Columbia River Mandrel Bending[/url]
Click to expand...


Newish member here, big time lurker!!!!!!

and I wanted to bring this thread out of the dark....I am gonna do this swap and was wondering if anyone went with this reducer for their IC boot..

It says 4 ply..but gives not other info...whats the thoughts of the community...Is that sucker gonna hold up..isn't our stocker stronger than that.

what temps should we be seeing out of that compressor and what boost pressures are people getting...I mean if this thing is only rated to 40psi...wouldnt that be a bit on the too close for comfort side of the scale???

Thanks

Jake
 
New info on this swap. I found out today that a cover is available from Holeset that is like the HX-35 cover and should make it similar to a factory install.
 
bwdt said:
New info on this swap. I found out today that a cover is available from Holeset that is like the HX-35 cover and should make it similar to a factory install.
Click to expand...

Would you care to expand on this a bit....

"Cover" what do you mean. Where can someone else find this info I would love to read a bit about it.

Thanks

Jake
 
Street sleeper said:
http://www.silconeintakes.com
45 degree elbow reducer is what I used and works fine. Also need a straight hose coupler to complete the fit to the 2nd gen pipe.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the help...I just found this sight yesterday night "Late Night" after searching post after post after post on various forums.....

So I am assuming your refering to the 3" to 2.75" 45* reducer found here..

Bending Reducer

and for the straight coupler did you get the 3"...1 foot section for 30 bucks or the little piece for 7...

Thanks

Jake
 
I guess I should also ask you street sleeper...

did you reclock the compressor housing to put that IC connection at the bottom...that is what I am doing, so if you did then your same set up should work...if u didnt clock it then I am back to the drawing board....

Thanks

Jake
 
all you do is clock the boost tube and rubber at the ic to make it line up. Hose coupler (Union)refers to the 3" steel connection between bending reducer and original ic boot the old turbo connected to.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top