Who is running a VGT on 2nd gen 24 Valve and how do you like it ????

[Billysgoat]

I haven't gotten to far with the charge pipe, I have some parts in hand that should work, just waiting to make sure before I say anything.

Now I'm going to hurt your feelings, that $30 clamp you had to modify? For another $8 you could have had the OEM one :bang Yes, it is high for a V-band clamp, but with the oddball size it is about the only option I could find. I looked at Source, but Snedge sold me the same return at a better price, just an FYI, what I plan to do in the AM is use the factory return with some nifty high heat hose I found and see what I can come up with, pretty sure I can make this work.

 

[Big Blue24]

What clamp are you all looking for, the turbine housing to cast elbow or the cast elbow to downpipe?

I'll have to look in my parts bin, but I'm pretty sure I have a v-band from a 351ve in there somewhere.

 

[bna5017]

What clamp are you all looking for, the turbine housing to cast elbow or the cast elbow to downpipe?

I'll have to look in my parts bin, but I'm pretty sure I have a v-band from a 351ve in there somewhere.

I have the clamp that connects the cast elbow to the turbine housing. I needed one to go to the downpipe I had to make, I wasn't able to use the cast elbow that is used on 6.7L with a second gen manifold..

 

[FDPOWER]

Thae way you would center the vanes on a 6.7 you alight the gear for the vane to the hole underneath it. There is a tool for that but you can use a drill bit to do it. As for the motor since you have the fleece i would use the knob to calibrate it . Then remove the bit and install. Then check the operation and travel.

 

[VMacKenzie]

I was told that opening the vane controller was a big no-no, supposedly causes it to lose its zero reference point or something like that and it's about impossible to correct without Chrysler software. Seemed kinda of far out. Sounds like your alignment method might do the trick?

 

[6btdakota]

Maybe it works well, but a $595 Controller on a $75.00 turbo seems weird!

I have have a He351ve on my 98 12 valve, turbo spools very quick!
Anyone with a controller of any kind, do you mind doing a test for me, how much boost are you seeing at 1500 rpm? (lugging the truck in Overdrive with Lock Up) Like that I'm seeing 30 psi at 1500 psi and right after that its at 40 psi, where I set it.
My torque converter hates me! RPM goes from 1400 RPM to 2000 in a blink of an eye! turbo is spooled WELL(25 psi) at 1400 rpm
Im at almost 7000 feet elevation

So anyone minds to test?

Wow you need a new control design. The vanes should be OPEN at low throttle, not shut!. Your boost should be ZERO while cruising if set up correctly. with the simple boost open setup- your drving around with the vanes shut most of the time = waste of fuel, extra heat, like a clogged cat or dpf.

I have mine set to be open, shut with throttle input, open with drive pressure. Works amazing. I derived this control setup from extensive testing with a simple lever manually controlling the vanes.

On the highway, mine does not whistle at all, zero boost. but if you touch the pedal any more than cruising, vanes start to close, boost goes up accordingly, cruise again, vanes open.

 

[kansasfirstgen]

If anybody has any questions about the vgt and fleece on a 24 valve, pm me. Have one and a fleece controller on the shelf that didnt satisfy an overfueled customer. Have dp and cold pipe and adapter for 3 piece manifold too.

 

[Street sleeper]

I have my complete kit for sale. Everything needed including manifold and fleece.

 

[dslhtrdr]

With a stock manifold and any kind of adapter, the turbo is way to close to the shock tower for my liking. Don't bother trying to flip the manifold either, that puts the turbine housing way to close the rubber hood seal.

My solution was to make a new shock tower mount out of 3/8" plate.

Oh, and I got a v-band clamp from carquest that was about as close to the dodge v-band clamp as you could get, I did have to modify it a bit, but it seals and works fine.

What are you doing for a downpipe?

Care to take a picture and show us? I think I've heard of aftermarket shock tower mounts too. I have no idea the cost or who makes them though.

 

[Bigdawg6969]

This turbo is good for those who don't have a massive amount of mods. Just won't flow enough for massive amounts of fueling.

 

[swordfish]

Out of curiosity do you guys who have this installed do anything with the missing or misplaced down pipe hanger? The hanger for our trucks attaches at the transmission and there isn't one on for that on the 3rd gen down pipe. Just curious as I am getting ready for this conversion.

swordfish

 

[thebullet83]

Out of curiosity do you guys who have this installed do anything with the missing or misplaced down pipe hanger? The hanger for our trucks attaches at the transmission and there isn't one on for that on the 3rd gen down pipe. Just curious as I am getting ready for this conversion.

swordfish

i cut the dp shorter and used the exhaust already on the truck. the down pipe fit inside the current exhaust (in my case any way).

 

[keifferscummins]

i just looked at the price idk but 624 dollars seems kinda high priced but my hx35 is not dead yet

 

[dslhtrdr]

i just looked at the price idk but 624 dollars seems kinda high priced but my hx35 is not dead yet

$624 for a brand new he351ve? I bought mine for $50 and it's basically new. Look locally. I got mine off of craigslist.

 

[Billysgoat]

Thae way you would center the vanes on a 6.7 you alight the gear for the vane to the hole underneath it. There is a tool for that but you can use a drill bit to do it. As for the motor since you have the fleece i would use the knob to calibrate it . Then remove the bit and install. Then check the operation and travel.

Could you elaborate a bit? I am familiar with the holes in question, but I have to assume you use the hole towards the middle part of the travel area? Also, do you know about what percentage open/close this should be?

Out of curiosity do you guys who have this installed do anything with the missing or misplaced down pipe hanger? The hanger for our trucks attaches at the transmission and there isn't one on for that on the 3rd gen down pipe. Just curious as I am getting ready for this conversion.

swordfish

I moved the existing pipe back to help clear the tranny etc better so I just cut the hangar in question off and welded it back on where I wanted it at.

 

[vcustoms86]

If anybody has any questions about the vgt and fleece on a 24 valve, pm me. Have one and a fleece controller on the shelf that didnt satisfy an overfueled customer. Have dp and cold pipe and adapter for 3 piece manifold too.

Dont have enough posts yet to PM. How much for the controller? Does it have all software and instructions?

 

[rotory26]

Thae way you would center the vanes on a 6.7 you alight the gear for the vane to the hole underneath it. There is a tool for that but you can use a drill bit to do it. As for the motor since you have the fleece i would use the knob to calibrate it . Then remove the bit and install. Then check the operation and travel.

I wish someone would do a YouTube vidio , so we all can under stand exactly how this is done.

 

[Billysgoat]

Ok, I had the joy of retiming everything on mine, and I seem to have it right now, it drives a lot better, but still on the ass scratch map.

I removed the electronics from the turbo and went by the local dealer, they had a 2010 in the shop for something minor and agreed to let me plug up and try my luck. So I crawled under the truck, got everything plugged in and did a key cycle, I think the gear on the motor moved a tooth. Called that good and came home.

With the electronics removed from the turbo, the toothed lever arm that the gear on the motor engages to move the internal ring should be almost all the way forward toward the intake side of the turbo. When in this position it should be very close to lining up with the timing reference hole underneath the arm. In the arm there is a hole, what you need is a screwdriver or drill bit which is just barely smaller than that hole in the arm. Pass your bit, screwdriver, allen wrench or freshly removed pinkie bone of a thief through the hole in the arm until it contacts the housing. If the pass through object hits the housing, wiggle the arm fore and aft till it slides in the hole there in the housing. Once it does so, carefully remove it and replace the electronic unit on the turbo.

Hope this helps.

 

[rotory26]

Ok, I had the joy of retiming everything on mine, and I seem to have it right now, it drives a lot better, but still on the ass scratch map.

I removed the electronics from the turbo and went by the local dealer, they had a 2010 in the shop for something minor and agreed to let me plug up and try my luck. So I crawled under the truck, got everything plugged in and did a key cycle, I think the gear on the motor moved a tooth. Called that good and came home.

With the electronics removed from the turbo, the toothed lever arm that the gear on the motor engages to move the internal ring should be almost all the way forward toward the intake side of the turbo. When in this position it should be very close to lining up with the timing reference hole underneath the arm. In the arm there is a hole, what you need is a screwdriver or drill bit which is just barely smaller than that hole in the arm. Pass your bit, screwdriver, allen wrench or freshly removed pinkie bone of a thief through the hole in the arm until it contacts the housing. If the pass through object hits the housing, wiggle the arm fore and aft till it slides in the hole there in the housing. Once it does so, carefully remove it and replace the electronic unit on the turbo.

Hope this helps.

Billysgoat, Thanks for that info now have that part in the brain box. Lets back the train up a bit and talk about a good way to dismantle the controller so it is easy to go back to that referance point. This is what I am thinking. Make 2 screws the same as the ones that hold the controller to the centre section but with no heads on them, maybe a bit longer over all. Take 2 bolts out and screw the bolts with no heads on them in there place. Now take the other 2 bolts out which leaves the bolts with no heads on them. Gently slide the controller of but only so you can see the drive gear from the side, then slip a narrow white marker in there. Make shore you tag both the drive gear and the arm before you totally disingage the drive. As long as you dont move the drive gear it should go back in the same spot it was. Billysgoat, what do you think about that. Would that work.

 

[Billysgoat]

Yes, that would work, but I'm not sure you could do it with the turbo installed, off the truck it should be no problem. You wouldn't need to make bolts, just use the long ones in the short position, all you need to do is hold it from moving side to side. The teeth on the lever are pretty coarse, so you don't have to be 100% exact, 90% will work in this case. The biggest concern is keeping the orientation of the electronic module the same when you R&R.