Who is running a VGT on 2nd gen 24 Valve and how do you like it ????

Gotcha...

So a 45* reducer and that above...then clock the comperssor housing so the 90* outlet is at the bottom, then use above pieces (with some stock boot clocking) and they will like up.

Correct me again if I am wrong....I would like to order this stuff today...

:thankyou2::thankyou2:

Jake
 
A nice little addition to this swap is the billet batmo wheel that is being made for these turbos as well...
 
Nor_Cal_Angler said:
Gotcha...

So a 45* reducer and that above...then clock the comperssor housing so the 90* outlet is at the bottom, then use above pieces (with some stock boot clocking) and they will like up.

Correct me again if I am wrong....I would like to order this stuff today...

:thankyou2::thankyou2:

Jake
Click to expand...

Correct on items...wrong on what to clock! Loosen the clamp at the inter cooler and turn it to fit the angle to which the above items will be attaching.
 
Street sleeper said:
Correct on items...wrong on what to clock! Loosen the clamp at the inter cooler and turn it to fit the angle to which the above items will be attaching.
Click to expand...

OK...I think we're talking apples to apples...we are just talking fuji and red delicious....

I went back and looked at your post with pic's...

Your using a 6.7 mani...which allows you to install that in a "factory" location (as it were on a 6.7) I am using a 2nd gen mani..which will require me to clock the commpressor housing or I will have that sucker sticking up dang near above the valve cover...lol

I will be clocking the compressor housing to line it up closer to the bottom for a cleaner install.

Jake
 
Well I think I just shot myself in the foot...

In my haste to get this thing up and running...I decided to clean the EX Housing and thought hey in order to get a good cleaning lets take off the electroic actuator and move the collar manually....

Come to find out that these things are "timed" or "indexed" for the rod travel or something...

So now based upon conversations, their is really only two known ways to have it reset...1. Cummins has a tool, but good luck..2. someone with a 6.7, I can use their truck to have the ecm go through its self dia. system check and on "key on" it will see the actuator out of rythem (so to speak) and re-index it to the proper orientation.

Anyone have anyother options....ideas...ways to reset this thing. 6.7's are hard to come by around here, much less convincing someone to let me do the plug in my turbo their truck method.

Throw them out....(idea's..and or flames...I got my suit on) I am trying to make this work still with a Fleece controler and they need that timing set to oem position for their programming to work.

Thanks

Jake
 
I think that if you have the fleece controller and hook it up to a lap top, you should be able to re index it based on the manual control of the programing.
 
bwdt said:
I think that if you have the fleece controller and hook it up to a lap top, you should be able to re index it based on the manual control of the programing.
Click to expand...

Talked to Caleb on Friday...sorry to say AFTER I tore it down....the first thing he said to me is..."you didnt remove the electronic's did you"

I guess, according to him, their programming will only allow full travel or 0-100% if the gearing and rod placement is left alone from the last removal off a 6.7.

supposedly (and this is what I am taking away from our conversation, which I am going to call again) once unpluged from the ecm the actuator and electronics are in "sink" and the gears and teeth of gears are in the proper place for full sweep of the collar...

If you remove the actuator and the teeth become seperated then when assembling it back together your teeth are not set back in the same location the travel of the collar will be off. And their programming I guess does not allow for that correction.

BWDT...if you have first hand experience to suggest otherwise dont be shy....shout it out!!! Any solution will do.

Jake
 
12valve said:
Maybe it works well, but a $595 Controller on a $75.00 turbo seems weird!

I have have a He351ve on my 98 12 valve, turbo spools very quick!
Anyone with a controller of any kind, do you mind doing a test for me, how much boost are you seeing at 1500 rpm? (lugging the truck in Overdrive with Lock Up) Like that I'm seeing 30 psi at 1500 psi and right after that its at 40 psi, where I set it.
My torque converter hates me! RPM goes from 1400 RPM to 2000 in a blink of an eye! turbo is spooled WELL(25 psi) at 1400 rpm
Im at almost 7000 feet elevation

So anyone minds to test?
Click to expand...


THis is why most mechanical VGT setups are wrong. You cant drive around with the vanes shut it will kill your mileage and heat everything up quick.
I Think THrottle input is a neccesary aspect of VGT control.
 
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i took mine apart just like you did. i thought the geared shaft was keyed inside the turbo, not! but what i did was carefully make sure the shaft was centered for travel, that way the motor would have the best shot to cycle it completely. slapped the motor on it and tried it out. was happy to see it didn't overtravel either direction.

im sure the fleece table i have set up now is probably some amount off of the normal. but as long as it works.
 
thebullet83 said:
i took mine apart just like you did. i thought the geared shaft was keyed inside the turbo, not! but what i did was carefully make sure the shaft was centered for travel, that way the motor would have the best shot to cycle it completely. slapped the motor on it and tried it out. was happy to see it didn't overtravel either direction.

im sure the fleece table i have set up now is probably some amount off of the normal. but as long as it works.
Click to expand...

Great to hear...

I think I have mine lined up damn close too...I know for sure that when I took off the EH that the collar was in the open position...I think it might have been like a bit, very small bit closed....

Basicly when you look down vertically and you have the hole on the gear and the two holes below it...I have it centerd on the top hole which is almost in the full open position.

Did you center it between the two wholes...

I'll get home tommrow and snap a picture and upload it if you want to compare for me where yours was when you reassembled it.

When you got it all together and uploaded your tables do you feel the EB kick in and how could you tell that your getting the right amout of travel.

Thanks Bullet

Jake
 
Nor_Cal_Angler said:
Gotcha...

So a 45* reducer and that above...then clock the comperssor housing so the 90* outlet is at the bottom, then use above pieces (with some stock boot clocking) and they will like up.

Correct me again if I am wrong....I would like to order this stuff today...

:thankyou2::thankyou2:

Jake
Click to expand...

I just want to add that website above that sells the silicone hoses and joiners are a great company. I ordered two clamps, a 3" joiner and a 90* 2.5" to 3" piece of hose on Monday and it shipped to me on Wednesday. .
 
i centered it up on the hole where the gear from the motor goes. open and closed.

i put the fleece control on the truck, and set the turbo on a little table to see if it was working right. i cycled it to see if it overtraved or got close to full operation. take your measurement of the collar open and closed, with it plugged in and not. the motor never pulled it all the way open nor never fully closed it. so i was happy.
 
Nor_Cal_Angler said:
Talked to Caleb on Friday...sorry to say AFTER I tore it down....the first thing he said to me is..."you didnt remove the electronic's did you"

I guess, according to him, their programming will only allow full travel or 0-100% if the gearing and rod placement is left alone from the last removal off a 6.7.

supposedly (and this is what I am taking away from our conversation, which I am going to call again) once unpluged from the ecm the actuator and electronics are in "sink" and the gears and teeth of gears are in the proper place for full sweep of the collar...

If you remove the actuator and the teeth become seperated then when assembling it back together your teeth are not set back in the same location the travel of the collar will be off. And their programming I guess does not allow for that correction.

BWDT...if you have first hand experience to suggest otherwise dont be shy....shout it out!!! Any solution will do.

Jake
Click to expand...

Ok I am a dummy. Had my friend in the US take my turbo apart and ship it to ATTurbo for the wheel upgrade with out saying anything about the location of the vanes. So this is what i think I will do when I get it back to Australia. Hook up the Fleece controller to the Actuator and cycle it. Once I know 0-100% I should be able to place it In the right location. What do you guys think of that.
 
thebullet83 said:
i centered it up on the hole where the gear from the motor goes. open and closed.

i put the fleece control on the truck, and set the turbo on a little table to see if it was working right. i cycled it to see if it overtraved or got close to full operation. take your measurement of the collar open and closed, with it plugged in and not. the motor never pulled it all the way open nor never fully closed it. so i was happy.
Click to expand...

So you centered it between the two holes....intresting. I am gonna order the controller and bench test it as well.

Jake
 
Well, since the stocker finally bit the dust, I'm ordering parts to get mine slapped on this weekend (I hope!).

Thanks to everybody putting up links and info on the parts needed!
 
Billysgoat said:
Well, since the stocker finally bit the dust, I'm ordering parts to get mine slapped on this weekend (I hope!).

Thanks to everybody putting up links and info on the parts needed!
Click to expand...

Go bigger Billy....I have some HE551's for sale....:hehe: :hehe:

Chris
 
That might be a bit to big Chris! For right now anyway :)

I did find out a few things, Summit sells the AN fittings cheaper than the anfittings website, the v band clamp for the 6.7 DP is a Dodge only part, and this sucker is a fairly tight fit LOL
 
Billysgoat said:
That might be a bit to big Chris! For right now anyway :)

I did find out a few things, Summit sells the AN fittings cheaper than the anfittings website, the v band clamp for the 6.7 DP is a Dodge only part, and this sucker is a fairly tight fit LOL
Click to expand...

With a stock manifold and any kind of adapter, the turbo is way to close to the shock tower for my liking. Don't bother trying to flip the manifold either, that puts the turbine housing way to close the rubber hood seal.

My solution was to make a new shock tower mount out of 3/8" plate.

Oh, and I got a v-band clamp from carquest that was about as close to the dodge v-band clamp as you could get, I did have to modify it a bit, but it seals and works fine.

What are you doing for a downpipe?
 
I'm using a 6.7 manifold and DP, I just got the turbo and manifold on today, now I leave for work in just a few so I had to call it quits at that. From the looks of things there is plenty of spacing between the shock tower and turbo. Looks like my biggest hurdle will be oil return and clocking the cast elbow a bit for lineup. I have the part # for the DP clamp that I will get posted up tomorrow, amazingly the dealer was cheaper than anywhere else I found it.
 
Oh ok. A 6.7 manifold will definitely make things easier. I think I paid like $30 for the v-band from carquest, which I thought was ridiculous, but I didn't have any other options at the time.

Oil return shouldn't be too big of an issue, I'm pretty sure source automotive sells a flexible oil return line that would make that job really easy.

What are your plans for the charge pipe between the turbo and intercooler? It's possible that you may be able to re-use the stock charge pipe with a 6.7 manifold. As you said you will have to clock the compressor housing, which is not a hard job at all.
 
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