Why do I need to adjust my valves every 200 miles???

greg if you see this please chime in about the push rods. I noticed the ends are a little different.


Greg haters: no bashing please. I want this to stay on track. I'm just trying to learn and if it turns into a bashing thread or goes off topic(valve lash issues) I'll request it be closed
 
So nick cracks a gay joke about me and thats fine but we arent allowed to crack a joke about greg? Not cool man LOL
 
Where you live at im in granbury, if your close i could come over and give you a hand. I got nothing to do all week....
 
valve adjustment procedure.


tools.
10 mm for cover bolts
9/16 and a 5mm allen wrench for the adjustments
15mm on a long 1/2 drive to turn the motor over..

140k on the clock, mine were LOOSE!
recomended specs are .010/. 020
int tolerance .006/.014
exhaust tolerance .016/.024
i set mine .008/.018

directly from svc man:
STANDARD PROCEDURE - VALVE LASH
ADJUSTMENT AND VERIFICATION
NOTE: To obtain accurate readings, valve lash measurements
AND adjustments should only be performed
when the engine coolant temperature is less
than 60° C (140° F).
The 24–valve overhead system is a “low-maintenance”
design. Routine adjustments are no longer
necessary, however, measurement should still take
place when trouble-shooting performance problems,
or upon completion of a repair that includes removal
and installation of the valve train components or
injectors.
(1) Disconnect battery negative cables.
(2) Remove cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(3) Using the crankshaft barring tool #7471–B,
rotate crankshaft to align damper TDC mark to
12:00 o’clock position.
(a) If both number one cylinder rocker levers are
loose, continue to next step.
(b) If both number one clylinder rocker levers
are not loose, rotate crankshaft 360 degrees.
(4) With the engine in this position, valve lash can
be measured at the following rocker arms: INTAKE
1–2–4 / EXHAUST 1–3–5. Measure the valve lash by
inserting a feeler gauge between the rocker arm
socket and crosshead (Fig. 32). Refer to VALVE
LASH LIMIT CHART for the correct specifications. If
the measurement falls within the limits, adjustment/
resetting is not necessary. If measurement
finds the lash outside of the limits, adjustment/resetting

is
required.
VALVE LASH LIMIT CHART
INTAKE EXHAUST
0.152 mm ( 0.006 in.)
MIN.
0.381 mm (0.015 in.)
MIN.
0.381 mm (0.015 in.)
MAX.
0.762 mm (0.030 in.)
MAX.
note:
If measured valve lash falls within these
specifications, no adjustment/reset is necessary.
Engine operation within these ranges has no adverse
affect on performance, emissions, fuel economy or
level of engine noise.
(5) If adjustment/resetting is required, loosen the
lock nut on rocker arms and turn the adjusting screw
until the desired lash is obtained:
²


INTAKE 0.254 mm (0.010 in.)
²


EXHAUST 0.508 mm (0.020 in.) Tighten the
lock nut to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.) and re-check the valve
lash.
(6) Using the crankshaft barring tool, rotate the
crankshaft


one revolution (360°) to align the
damper TDC mark to the 12 o’clock position.
(7) With the engine in this position, valve lash can
be measured at the remaining rocker arms: INTAKE
3–5–6 / EXHAUST 2–4–6. Use the same method as
above for determining whether adjustment is necessary,
and adjust those that are found to be outside of
the limits.
(8) Install the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(9) Connect the battery negative cables.

The 24–valve overhead system is a “low-maintenance”
design. Routine adjustments are no longer
necessary, however, measurement should still take
place when trouble-shooting performance problems,
or upon completion of a repair that includes removal
and installation of the valve train components or
injectors.
(1) Disconnect battery negative cables.
(2) Remove cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(3) Using the crankshaft barring tool #7471–B,
rotate crankshaft to align damper TDC mark to
12:00 o’clock position.
(a) If both number one cylinder rocker levers are
loose, continue to next step.
(b) If both number one clylinder rocker levers
are not loose, rotate crankshaft 360 degrees.
(4) With the engine in this position, valve lash can
be measured at the following rocker arms: INTAKE
1–2–4 / EXHAUST 1–3–5. Measure the valve lash by
inserting a feeler gauge between the rocker arm
socket and crosshead (Fig. 32). Refer to VALVE
LASH LIMIT CHART for the correct specifications. If
the measurement falls within the limits, adjustment/
resetting is not necessary. If measurement
finds the lash outside of the limits, adjustment/resetting
is required.
VALVE LASH LIMIT CHART
INTAKE EXHAUST
0.152 mm ( 0.006 in.)
MIN.
0.381 mm (0.015 in.)
MIN.
0.381 mm (0.015 in.)
MAX.
0.762 mm (0.030 in.)
MAX.
note:
If measured valve lash falls within these
specifications, no adjustment/reset is necessary.
Engine operation within these ranges has no adverse
affect on performance, emissions, fuel economy or
level of engine noise.
(5) If adjustment/resetting is required, loosen the
lock nut on rocker arms and turn the adjusting screw
until the desired lash is obtained:
² INTAKE 0.254 mm (0.010 in.)
² EXHAUST 0.508 mm (0.020 in.) Tighten the
lock nut to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.) and re-check the valve
lash.
(6) Using the crankshaft barring tool, rotate the
crankshaft one revolution (360°) to align the
damper TDC mark to the 12 o’clock position.
(7) With the engine in this position, valve lash can
be measured at the remaining rocker arms: INTAKE
3–5–6 / EXHAUST 2–4–6. Use the same method as
above for determining whether adjustment is necessary,
and adjust those that are found to be outside of
the limits.
(8) Install the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(9) Connect the battery negative cables.



REMOVAL - VALVE SPRINGS AND SEALS
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Remove the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(3) Disconnect rocker housing injector harness connector.
Remove all injector harness solenoid nuts.
(4) Remove injector(s) for cylinder(s) to be serviced.
Refer to Group 14 for injector removal.
(5) Remove the rocker housing.
(6) Remove the rocker arms and crossheads from
the cylinder(s) to be serviced. Mark each component
so they can be installed in their original position.
(7) Using the crankshaft barring tool #7471–B
(Fig. 33), rotate the engine to position the damper
Fig. 32 Measuring Valve Lash - Typical
1 - INTAKE
2 - FEELER GAUGE
3 - EXHAUST
9 - 308 ENGINE 5.9L DIESEL DR
INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES & SEATS (Continued)
mark in the 12 o’clock position. At this engine position,
cylinders #1 and #6 can be serviced.
(8) Remove the accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(9) With the damper TDC mark in the 12 o’clock
position, add a paint mark anywhere on the gear
housing cover next to the crankshaft damper. Place
another mark on the vibration damper in alignment
with the mark you just made on the cover.
(10) Divide the crankshaft damper into three
equally sized segments as follows:
(a) Using a tape measure, measure the circumference
of the crankshaft damper and divide the
measurement by three (3).
(b) Measure that distance in a counter-clockwise
direction from the first balancer mark and place
another mark on the balancer.
(c) From the second damper mark, again measure
in a counter-clockwise direction and place a
mark on the damper at the same distance you
measured when placing the second damper mark.
The damper should now be marked in three
equally spaced locations and the damper TDC
mark should be in the 12 o’clock position.
(d) Remove injectors, fuel lines, and high pressure
connectors for every cylinder that requires
repair.
(11) Compress the valve springs at cyls. #1 and #6
as follows:
(a) Remove bolts and injector hold-down clamp.
(b) Using miller special tool #9010, remove injector.
(c) Install the valve spring compressor mounting
base as shown in (Fig. 34).
(d) Install the top plate, washer, and nut. Using
a suitable wrench tighten the nut (clock-wise) (Fig.
35) to compress the valve springs and remove the
collets.
(e) Rotate the compressor nut counter-clockwise
to relieve tension on springs. Remove spring compressor.
(f) Remove and replace retainers, springs, and
seals as necessary.
(g) Do not rotate the engine until the
springs and retainers are re-installed.
(h) Install seals, springs and retainers. Install
spring compressor, compress valve springs and
install the collets.
(i) Release the spring tension and remove the
compressor. Verify that the collets are seated by
tapping on the valve stem with a plastic hammer.
(12) Using the crankshaft barring tool, rotate the
engine until the next crankshaft damper paint mark
aligns with the mark you placed on the cover. In this
position, cylinders #2 and #5 can be serviced.
(13) Repeat the valve spring compressing procedure
previously performed and service the retainers,
springs, and seals as necessary.
(14) Using the crankshaft barring tool, rotate the
engine until the next crankshaft damper paint mark
aligns with the mark you placed on the cover. In this
position, cylinders #3 and #4 can be serviced.
(15) Repeat the spring compressing procedure previously
performed and service the retainers, springs,
and seals as necessary.




INSTALLATION
(1) Install rocker housing.
(2) Install fuel injectors and high pressure fuel
lines.
(3) Lubricate the valve tips and install the crossheads
in their original locations.
Fig. 33 Rotating Engine with Barring Tool - Typical
1 - REAR FLANGE
2 - BARRING TOOL
Fig. 34 Spring Compressor Mounting Base—Part of
Tool 8319–A
1 - COMPRESSOR MOUNTING BASE
DR ENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 309
INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES & SEATS (Continued)
(4) Lubricate the crossheads and push rod sockets
and install the rocker arms and pedestals in their
original locations. Tighten bolts to 36 N•m (27 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(5) Verify valve lash adjustment (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/INTAKE/EXHAUST
VALVES & SEATS - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(6) Install cylinder head cover and reusable gasket
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER
HEAD COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(7) Connect battery negative cables.
ROCKER ARM / ADJUSTER
ASSY
DESCRIPTION
The unique intake and exhaust rocker arms have
their own rocker shafts and are lubricated by passages
intersecting the cylinder block main oil rifle.
Crossheads are used, which allow each rocker arm to
operate two valves.
The solid push rods are hardened at the rocker
arm and tappet contact areas for superior strength
and durability.



REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Remove cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the rocker arm/pedestal fasteners (Fig.
36) and remove rocker arm and pedestal from cylinder
head. Mark the arms and pedestals so they can
be installed in their original position.
CAUTION: When removing the rocker arms, the
sockets (Fig. 37) may come loose and fall into the
engine. Make sure they stay with the arm upon
removal/installation.
(4) Lift the push rod(s) up and out of the engine
(Fig. 38). Mark them so they can be installed in their
original position.
NOTE: The #5 cyl. intake and exhaust and #6 cyl.
intake and exhaust push rods must be raised
through the provided cowl panel access holes.
(5) Lift the crosshead(s) off of the valve stems.
Mark them so they can be installed in their original
position.
 
bh10 said:
This correct for a 24v, but on a CR after you do the # 1 In + Ex, 2 In, 3 Ex, 4 In, 5 Ex, you spin the crank 360 degree's not 180 like the 24v, on the # 2 Ex, 3 In, 4 Ex, 5 In, 6 In+Ex, IIRC.
Click to expand...

Its the same for a CR as it is for the 24v as it is for the 12v. Its always at TDC on the #1, first set is on compression, second set is on exhaust stroke. To find #1 compression quickly, watch the #6 valves. When they overlap, you are at TDC (close enough for valve lashing) on #1. To find the exhaust stroke, watch the #1 cylinder valves for overlap. Now do the other half of the valve lash.
 
i know on my 12v when i had that hollow knock kinda like hitting the bottom of a coffee can i had cracked valve seats and had to have them replaced and that fixed it.
 
from the sound of it, it could be many things. I know when I had em lashed last it went away. I guess I'll start replacing the cheap stuff first. Anybody want to make a list of things to check. Like I said earlier, this internal stuff is all new to me
 
Tate said:
Its the same for a CR as it is for the 24v as it is for the 12v. Its always at TDC on the #1, first set is on compression, second set is on exhaust stroke. To find #1 compression quickly, watch the #6 valves. When they overlap, you are at TDC (close enough for valve lashing) on #1. To find the exhaust stroke, watch the #1 cylinder valves for overlap. Now do the other half of the valve lash.
Click to expand...

Good to know I was told the VP'd 24v were different from the CR's.
 
Of course he did:hehe:

Do you trust the shop that did them to torque them properly? Check the nuts, and anything that moves. I'd definitely pull the pushrods and make sure they are straight/undamaged.
 
relentless did it, the last time he did he told me when it does it again to bring it in and we will start trying different things, but my work schedule is pretty crazy and cant really schedule an appoinment and hate just dropping by to do it.

im gonna put the stock push rods back in. i think it may have something to do with the billet rods i have in. the ends are alot different then the stockers. they are hogues rods tho, i was hoping he'd chime in so i could see if anyone else has had a problem like me that was running his rods
 
bh10 said:
This correct for a 24v, but on a CR after you do the # 1 In + Ex, 2 In, 3 Ex, 4 In, 5 Ex, you spin the crank 360 degree's not 180 like the 24v, on the # 2 Ex, 3 In, 4 Ex, 5 In, 6 In+Ex, IIRC.
Click to expand...

You always spin it 360 degree's not 180. You turn it 360 so you will be on TDC exhaust stroke.
 
Well if Relentless did it I wouldn't worry about the work.

I would say start another thread on the rods, but you know the haters will flood it.

I'm wondering if maybe Greg hasn't chimed in because he has heard of this before and would rather not deal with it on the open forums (not bashing, and not accusing Greg of hiding an issue that may or may not have surfaced a few times.) I'd shoot him a PM.
 
Tate said:
Its the same for a CR as it is for the 24v as it is for the 12v. Its always at TDC on the #1, first set is on compression, second set is on exhaust stroke. To find #1 compression quickly, watch the #6 valves. When they overlap, you are at TDC (close enough for valve lashing) on #1. To find the exhaust stroke, watch the #1 cylinder valves for overlap. Now do the other half of the valve lash.
Click to expand...

or you could just do it the way its listed on pg 1?

adj the int when the ex for that cyl starts to open and adj the ex when the int for that cyl starts to close

its actually more accurate to adj them this way

a 2 position method is easy, but what do you want?

easy or accurate?

with the 2 position method it is possible for 2 of the valves to be slightly on the ramp

in ea position...

so you stand the chance of having 4 loose valves

or do it as above and you know they are all correct

good luck with it, don
 
he probably knows i didnt buy the rods and recieved them as a gift from a competitor. oh well. ill try shooting him a pm
 
I have not had any problem with my MaxSpool Push rods to date , doesn’t mean that that it can’t happen .you would be the first , I have over 350 sets out there , the first 10 sets were 3/8 cups since then they are 10mm cups. My 7/16 taper wall pushrods have this same cup.


They are guaranteed, if they were a problem . There has been zero problem with them to date , the Nitro Flash Truck, and BreakSmart Dragster both run them , one has the 3/8. And the other the new 10mm +.200 and neither has had any issues , doth engines are 6000 + rpm engines.
I would recommend using rocker studs if the rocker bolts are loosening off. If you see no damage on the push rods then its has to be something else , the damage would be very obvious .
I would point towards the cam ,

As to how to lash rockers , this is a great way , and will work from the smallest engine to a Pro Stock engine

When the exhaust rocker starts to move to the corresponding intake

When the intake is almost closed to the corresponding exhaust ,
Simple , but it works
 
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