Why no "street" compounds with the primary out front?

i drove in with a single and left with compounds....all i had to work with was a 180°, 90°, and what i had left over from the old school style twins....took me about 5hrs from when i drove in till i was out "testing" for leaks

came in looking like this
416594_361390560559755_100000664413856_1184355_382237147_o.jpg

left looking like this
341273_361666120532199_100000664413856_1185325_447376671_o.jpg


here is a set i built for a customer in a 2011
414664_350549864977158_100000664413856_1158307_277133474_o.jpg
 
therabbittree said:
I would also like to see the mounting bracket / supports.. I would think it would be best attached to the engine vs the frame. to keep flexing etc unless the hot pipe has a flex bellows in it etc...
Thanks,
Deo
Click to expand...

I've (unfortunately) seen a few now that are just a piece of flat stock running from the oil drain diagonally down to the block. while this may do ok for a while, it eventually will crack both the mount and the hotpipe. The brace should be triangulated to completely prevent motion/vibration from fatiguing the metal. $.02
 
Lance@Alligator said:
i drove in with a single and left with compounds....all i had to work with was a 180°, 90°, and what i had left over from the old school style twins....took me about 5hrs from when i drove in till i was out "testing" for leaks

came in looking like this
416594_361390560559755_100000664413856_1184355_382237147_o.jpg

left looking like this
341273_361666120532199_100000664413856_1185325_447376671_o.jpg
Click to expand...

No AC, battery, or inner fender, and a hood stack! Musta been tough to fit. :lolly:
 
I saw a picture of the DPS primary mount and it was a joke. All it was, was a two bolts on the bell housing with a clamp coming off that clamped onto the down pipe.
 
i cant see how any of this is easier than the "normal" over/under placement of twins....

the set I built this week has a 10 inch long hotpipe, primary turbo drain hose is a straight shot, "cold" pipe is relitivly short, and it would take me less than 30 minutes to tear them down to nothing.

so why? besides wow factor of looking at a turbo that is sitting where your battery once was
 
ahale2772 said:
i cant see how any of this is easier than the "normal" over/under placement of twins....

the set I built this week has a 10 inch long hotpipe, primary turbo drain hose is a straight shot, "cold" pipe is relitivly short, and it would take me less than 30 minutes to tear them down to nothing.

so why? besides wow factor of looking at a turbo that is sitting where your battery once was
Click to expand...

Only reason I can see is a primary too large to fit in the low position
 
the 6.7 kit was a 2nd gen set up i made work on a 4th gen. the chrome pipe was the only thing i didnt change much, just cut a little off the end to make it shorter
 
Lance@Alligator said:
the 6.7 kit was a 2nd gen set up i made work on a 4th gen. the chrome pipe was the only thing i didnt change much, just cut a little off the end to make it shorter
Click to expand...

Not to go too off topic, but is your truck running again Lance? I saw it parked by the shop with a cute little hat on the stack last time I was in CDA
 
still sitting since the engine let go the end of March last year. pulled the injectors and looked with a bore scope, it has awesome vertical scoring on the cylinders 0 compression in #1 and 2 cylinders and about 125psi on #3....thats where i gave up testing
 
ahale2772 said:
i cant see how any of this is easier than the "normal" over/under placement of twins....

the set I built this week has a 10 inch long hotpipe, primary turbo drain hose is a straight shot, "cold" pipe is relitivly short, and it would take me less than 30 minutes to tear them down to nothing.

so why? besides wow factor of looking at a turbo that is sitting where your battery once was
Click to expand...

Do a reverse secondary and the hot pipe is uber short (mine will consist of a 3" tight radius elbow, and approx 1/2" long piece of 3" pipe), and the cold pipe won't be much longer than a traditional set. But like I said earlier, besides the wow factor to having the big charger front and (slightly off) center, there really isn't much advantage over a traditional placement.
 
For the guys running compounds like this how close are the turbos from each other (primary turbine to secondary compressor). I'm in the process in building a set in my Dakota but I'm wondering how close is "safe" for the heat.
This is the space i have.
IMG_20130317_192317_937.jpg
 
Why is near everyone putting the secondary up high? this seems to waste a lot of room.
 
TURBOLVR said:
Why is near everyone putting the secondary up high? this seems to waste a lot of room.
Click to expand...

I was wanting to since its going in a dakota but no matter where i put it there is no room. I decided for the traditional way since it'll make my down pipe sooo much easier and there isn't anything that could can get damaged by heat
 
I understand the space constraints in a swap truck. I was more interested in why it was done on factory Cummins Dodges?
 
My guess is to get the cold pipe over the alternator. Mine is near factory location but that was determined by the header.
 
TURBOLVR said:
I understand the space constraints in a swap truck. I was more interested in why it was done on factory Cummins Dodges?
Click to expand...

I like mine down low nearly out of sight. ..I convinced one moron that all the piping was a custom air box to make it whistle more.
 
TURBOLVR said:
I understand the space constraints in a swap truck. I was more interested in why it was done on factory Cummins Dodges?
Click to expand...

I have built them both ways. On a street truck, I prefer the primary tucked under because you don't have to relocate the battery. If it is a competition rig or one that you wrench on constantly, I like the primary up top. I can pull either turbo off independently in about 15 mins. With the over/under it is more of a hassle.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top