Workstock 12 valve

For your tires, I have a set of BFG all Terrains 33x12.5x16.5 on Eagle alloys for sale. Let me know if you would be interested. Tread averages 9/32 and would like $650.
 
thanks for all the input guys. i am still driving truck on the road. no lockers are in. yet and still factory axles and driveshaft. coopercummins is always one of the top running trucks in the class along with 3 duramaxes and another common rail cummins and i believe they are running factory chargers. i am not the kind to cheat and win. i like to get out there and have fun but would like to do decent in my class. i was going to cut some fuel back to limit all the boost and heat from the hx 35. but i dont know may just turn the starwheel back a few clicks and keep plate where its at. just have a feeling im gonna explode the 35 :ft: . one truck running in that top 4 still has factory head studs and some very good tuning. would i really need a special head and pump to get up closer to the front why couldnt i get my head ported and hamilton cam? i'm new to this and i also have some good advice from another shop but hate to aggravate them to death with questions is why im throwing some of this stuff out here. again thanks for all the input
 
I hope to try 2nd 4h if I get my truck back. I'll letcha know if I can come outta the hole in that gear
 
ok my truck is a lot more stout than yours so if you can pull 2 hi i will be able to
 
Young12valve what mods do you have? What charger? I am running a 33inch tall tires
 
jl injectors lots of pump work fire ringed head new head studs i am going to be turning about 4500 not sure on turbo i have a 62 mm schwitzer s300 i got sold trying to decide on what turbo to run with i have 3.54 gears ex cab dually and 265/75/16 all around with 2 in spacers between the duels
 
well injectors are jl they are 5x22 and pump has 5 k springs and full cut dv just the basic stuff
 
young12valve said:
well injectors are jl they are 5x22 and pump has 5 k springs and full cut dv just the basic stuff
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you still running a factory pump or do you have a 13mm? i got a s363 on right now with 5x16s and a 4kgsk and 024s. i might follow your lead a little bit cuz it looks like you got a good setup going on. i'm switching over to a s466 here next week
 
I don't see the need to run a 13mm pump in workstock. You need your pump flowed for more fuel. A stock pump can flow more fuel than any stock turbo can handle. A 13mm pump is for 2.6 or bigger.
 
i am still running a 12mm i am looking to get it benched but looking to go to a 475 maybe something in that neighborhood i still have all winter to decide so ill shop around and talk to see what will be right for my set up
 
Workstock cheaters kinda piss me off even though I know 80% of em do cheat or never get teched. I would say keep it real and its better to beat the cheaters when you don't cheat. Some motor work may be required to compete real well. You have the rpm advantage with a p pump though, use it.

HE351CW would be a better turbo than the hx35, The common rails have an advantage there. I'd get one of those turbos and run that if it were me. I had one on my truck for a while and loved it, the rules (at least around here) let you swap turbos and pumps from different years of the same make. One big thing I've learned in pulling for the first season this year is that weight and traction can make a big difference. I never took last place all year with my lowly VE powered 12 valve with a stock auto trans. I never took first either but I could run with a lot of those big powered 2.6 and 3.0 class trucks with over twice or more my hp cuz I could hang 1700 lbs on the front, got my tire pressures right, my hitch height right at 26" and suspension stops. Get your truck setup just right and it will amaze you the difference.

I realize in workstock you can't hang weights but get weight as far ahead as you can and weigh as much as they allow, more weight will help especially with open axles. It takes a few pulls to get a hang of things but after a while you'll get in the groove and learn something new to better the next pull.

good luck, I'm all for the underdogs cuz i am one too
 
Smokin ACE said:
Workstock cheaters kinda piss me off even though I know 80% of em do cheat or never get teched. I would say keep it real and its better to beat the cheaters when you don't cheat. Some motor work may be required to compete real well. You have the rpm advantage with a p pump though, use it.

HE351CW would be a better turbo than the hx35, The common rails have an advantage there. I'd get one of those turbos and run that if it were me. I had one on my truck for a while and loved it, the rules (at least around here) let you swap turbos and pumps from different years of the same make. One big thing I've learned in pulling for the first season this year is that weight and traction can make a big difference. I never took last place all year with my lowly VE powered 12 valve with a stock auto trans. I never took first either but I could run with a lot of those big powered 2.6 and 3.0 class trucks with over twice or more my hp cuz I could hang 1700 lbs on the front, got my tire pressures right, my hitch height right at 26" and suspension stops. Get your truck setup just right and it will amaze you the difference.

I realize in workstock you can't hang weights but get weight as far ahead as you can and weigh as much as they allow, more weight will help especially with open axles. It takes a few pulls to get a hang of things but after a while you'll get in the groove and learn something new to better the next pull.

good luck, I'm all for the underdogs cuz i am one too
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Pile 3-400 lbs on the passenger floor, throw the floor mat over it and at a glance no one will notice. You will most likely get away with it. If your a tall guy you can probably get 1-200 lbs on the drivers floor, just strap it to the seat to it cant slide forward. Thats the extent of my cheating for stock classes. even if they are not teching ill leave the bottle out despite knowing other guys are not doing the same.
 
they allow hanging weights in this class in ky 8500 lb factory unmodified turbo of any 1 ton or less diesel pickup truck they can be interchanged. but have to have stock configuration. so im assuming no vgt on 12 valve?
 
Smokin ACE said:
I never took last place all year with my lowly VE powered 12 valve with a stock auto trans. I never took first either but I could run with a lot of those big powered 2.6 and 3.0 class trucks with over twice or more my hp cuz I could hang 1700 lbs on the front, got my tire pressures right, my hitch height right at 26" and suspension stops.
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You are right, setup means everything, but if you can even be within 50 foot of 2.6 and 3.0 trucks, then the 2.6 and 3.0 there must not be what it is here in Ky. Most 2.6 trucks here are probably 800+ horsepower. No way a 300hp truck could get close. With my truck the way it sits now, I was about 30ft behind most guys in the work stock class 2 years ago. There are some things i could have done to get it better, but i still would have been a little behind them.
 
1pieceatatime. said:
Pile 3-400 lbs on the passenger floor, throw the floor mat over it and at a glance no one will notice. You will most likely get away with it. If your a tall guy you can probably get 1-200 lbs on the drivers floor, just strap it to the seat to it cant slide forward. Thats the extent of my cheating for stock classes. even if they are not teching ill leave the bottle out despite knowing other guys are not doing the same.
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This or under the seat if they can't tell. But if you can hang weights in workstock then all the better, especially if you can weigh up to 8500. Build a solid weight bar or box that sets at least 1500 lbs 60" from the centerline of the axle. How far they hang out can help just as much by how much weight you can hang. Take full advantage of all the rules allowed and go to the edge.

And yes you want the HE351CW (04.5-07 5.9 dodges) not the variable vgt or ve off the 6.7s

You guys are a lot more competitive back east than compared to where I'm at. 2.6 class is a strong class here as well but the trucks are usually only 600hp good running trucks. The same to Common Rails win 2.6 every time. 3.0 class is what I'm in now and I really like this class. There is some dang good runnin 800-1000hp trucks in this class but I'm in it for fun, not to win. If I beat some big hp with my lil VE then thats cool but if not I don't get all butt hurt about it. Plus I can stay consistent every pull with my truck and actually run pretty good every time. I can be behind the winner anywhere from 10 to 40 ft. Depending on how many trucks show. Some of these trucks come and can't get movin or something blows up every other pull. Yeah they may have more hp but if their truck can't hold it all together then they still lose and I can still beat them with not a very good pull. Its part of the game, if you want to win you gotta keep it together too.
 
Smokin ACE said:
This or under the seat if they can't tell. But if you can hang weights in workstock then all the better, especially if you can weigh up to 8500. Build a solid weight bar or box that sets at least 1500 lbs 60" from the centerline of the axle. How far they hang out can help just as much by how much weight you can hang. Take full advantage of all the rules allowed and go to the edge.

And yes you want the HE351CW (04.5-07 5.9 dodges) not the variable vgt or ve off the 6.7s

You guys are a lot more competitive back east than compared to where I'm at. 2.6 class is a strong class here as well but the trucks are usually only 600hp good running trucks. The same to Common Rails win 2.6 every time. 3.0 class is what I'm in now and I really like this class. There is some dang good runnin 800-1000hp trucks in this class but I'm in it for fun, not to win. If I beat some big hp with my lil VE then thats cool but if not I don't get all butt hurt about it. Plus I can stay consistent every pull with my truck and actually run pretty good every time. I can be behind the winner anywhere from 10 to 40 ft. Depending on how many trucks show. Some of these trucks come and can't get movin or something blows up every other pull. Yeah they may have more hp but if their truck can't hold it all together then they still lose and I can still beat them with not a very good pull. Its part of the game, if you want to win you gotta keep it together too.
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Reading comprehension skills are an important part of truck pulling. :rules:
Other pullers tell me im cheating when i run suspension stops, however, i made mine adjustable so i can conform to any travel requirements listed in the rules.
 
the workstock guys around here are 600 horse easy id say. stiff competition here in ky. i should have my truck out to play next year. prolly wont be no where near the top but ima have it setup right before i ever pull
 
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