24v p-pump and build

CorneliusRox said:
I think if you've got it bolted down to a head, you'll keep it as perfect as possible. I'd say just bolt it down to a welding table, but you might not have them gapped right to fit the flats for the seals on the head.

Do you have pictures of the flanges you are talking about?
Click to expand...

But if I use the intake plate it should be correct when bolted down. I see what your saying though.

This:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/350956376693?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Plus two of these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/351081511155?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
 
Alright, I just realized that we are talking about different things. lol
I was talking about those valve cover vents that connect two valve covers together. You're talking about making a dual inlet intake horn.

I don't think you'll have much of an issue then. I would still bolt it down, but you have more than enough material to have it decked if needed.
 
Sorry if I missed it some where, but what size turbos are you goin to be runnin?
 
Hdhorton said:
Sorry if I missed it some where, but what size turbos are you goin to be runnin?
Click to expand...


S480/87 J-Cup new style turbine FMW primary with 1.10 T-6 and s362/68 FMW secondary with J-cup new turbine with 0.83 T-4.

The t-4 short outlet actually showed up today. Had it cut for hx40.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1420235624.673999.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1420235642.025444.jpg

Now I can finally begin fabbing up hot pipe. Going with 3.5" SS.


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That's a pretty nice set up. I think after I get my pump swapped I'm going try and get a s480 to go with my 64. Might swap the garret for something different before I do, but who knows. Decisions decisions.
 
Ghostman said:
But if I use the intake plate it should be correct when bolted down. I see what your saying though.

This:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/350956376693?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

ad reads:
"Ever wonder why your charge tube pops off even when bead rolled with the best clamps at high boost pressures sometimes?
It's because your stock cover plate with actually move and stretch under boost levels it was not designed to handle. (over 30#)"

:hehe:
Click to expand...
 
TURBOLVR said:
Ghostman said:
But if I use the intake plate it should be correct when bolted down. I see what your saying though.

This:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/350956376693?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

ad reads:
"Ever wonder why your charge tube pops off even when bead rolled with the best clamps at high boost pressures sometimes?
It's because your stock cover plate with actually move and stretch under boost levels it was not designed to handle. (over 30#)"

:hehe:
Click to expand...

Yeah haha I saw that too :hehe:
Click to expand...
 
Just waiting on my 3.5" stainless steel tubing.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1420761643.561245.jpg

What is optimum size for the cold pipe and Intercooler pipe on a setup like mine, and why?


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TURBOLVR said:
I like 3.5" for the hot and 3" for the cold/IC piping.
Click to expand...


And you just use transition boots to get back to whatever size?

I wonder why did oem use 3.5" in/out on interCooler?

The outlet on the race cover is 3" slip I think, but out let on secondary is 2.5" slip I think.
 
Most OEM parts are manufactured for multiple applications, hence different size tubing, inlets and outlets.
Freightliners with the same engine use a 4" intercooler. Many aftermarkets are 3".
Turbine outlets expand to give the gasses an expansion area to accelerate them outward. When used as the secondary in compound, this isnt wanted or needed as it will lose some of the velocity needed to drive the primary. HTH.
 
Is there any special thickness ect to be used on hot pipes ? I am curious
 
97rada said:
Is there any special thickness ect to be used on hot pipes ? I am curious
Click to expand...


I think the thicker the better for heat retention. I could only find 16ga for what type I needed. It will get lots of wrap.


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Ghostman said:
S480/87 J-Cup new style turbine FMW primary with 1.10 T-6 and s362/68 FMW secondary with J-cup new turbine with 0.83 T-4.

The t-4 short outlet actually showed up today. Had it cut for hx40.

View attachment 55015
View attachment 55016

Now I can finally begin fabbing up hot pipe. Going with 3.5" SS.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


How much was that short .83? I will need one for my twins set up
 
97rada said:
How much was that short .83? I will need one for my twins set up
Click to expand...

There are a couple vendors on here that can supply them I bet. I can't really say my price because I'm a NSV. I would contact Weston, he can supply the housing and have it cut if needed. I contacted him for having the outlet flange cut to HX40. I believe the HX40 will seal alot better than the other flange would have when used in compounds.
 
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