Burnt piston

Isn't that how everyone lowers their compression?

As a good friend of mine once said, stretching your head bolts is a good way to lower your compression :hehe::bang

On a side note, glad to hear you don't have to change your pistons.
 
Doubt touching them up with a wire wheel lowered it at all. If id did it would be very very minute.

How the hell did you fit a 4" grinder into the corners? Bring the pistons to TDC before hitting them with the wire wheel?
 
A fine scotch brite pad and some sort of penetrating oil and be very careful doing it. bring piston to TDC and vacuum out when done. Follow it up with something like brake clean that dries with no residue.
 
How the hell did you fit a 4" grinder into the corners? Bring the pistons to TDC before hitting them with the wire wheel?

Yes.

You might be surprised...you would lose approximately two to three tenths of a point per 0.005".

Well considering I can still see the STD stamp or etching whatever it is. I figure I didn't remove a whole hell of a lot to ever make a difference.

Got the valves out of the head today, I can see a tiny crack between most of the exhaust and intake valves. Also down in the seating area it looks like some there too. Its going to the machine shop on Monday to have things checked out. Cross your fingers!
 
Got the valves out of the head today, I can see a tiny crack between most of the exhaust and intake valves. Also down in the seating area it looks like some there too. Its going to the machine shop on Monday to have things checked out. Cross your fingers!

Most 12valve heads are like that
 
Well....


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#5 rod bearing got ate for dinner! Im finding tons of little surprises!
 
Fixed it for you :lolly:

haha, no metal shavings here. like at all... It has me a little confused cause there was quite a bit of material missing from that one bearing, thought I would have seen something in the oil by now. Its getting new bearings anyways. just another reason it was a good idea to yank the motor.
 
haha, no metal shavings here. like at all... It has me a little confused cause there was quite a bit of material missing from that one bearing, thought I would have seen something in the oil by now. Its getting new bearings anyways. just another reason it was a good idea to yank the motor.

VERY difficult to see stuff like that in the oil.

You may have caught it early if you did oil analysis. They would have noticed the extra copper and other bearing materials in the analysis.

In the end, you probably end up in the same situation... But it might have given you a starting point. For as cheap as they are, I would do one every 20-30k miles.
 
How many miles are on that motor, and how many did you put on vs previous owner? Do you know if the oil was changed regularly by the previous owner(s), or where the truck was driven and what it was used for?
 
Holy toasted bearing Batman !!! You are a lucky man that did not spin. How does the crank look?
 
haha, no metal shavings here. like at all... It has me a little confused cause there was quite a bit of material missing from that one bearing, thought I would have seen something in the oil by now. Its getting new bearings anyways. just another reason it was a good idea to yank the motor.

You ever cut the filter open? That's where the evidence will start forming...

Oil analysis would be another way you might have caught it earlier...

Even with an earlier warning there isn't much to do except open up the motor and figure out what is wrong anyway.
 
what injectors will you use

I thought I had stage 2 DDP, but weston found out they were stage 3's. So a freshened set of DDP3's with a little work to drop them down a little to get the fuel in the bowl.

How many miles are on that motor, and how many did you put on vs previous owner? Do you know if the oil was changed regularly by the previous owner(s), or where the truck was driven and what it was used for?

274k, I bought it with 238k so 36k me driving. The last guy that drove this truck before I bought it was a disgruntled employee and was tearing up the construction company's equipment. He even hit a deer with it. I changed the oil almost religiously every 3k, I let it got to 5k ONCE I think.

Nothing like scoring your walls with piston shavings.

Man I tell you I cleaned and cleaned those suckers with diesel and brake cleaner and all that good stuff. so I made sure there were absolutely no aluminum shavings left over, I covered the other holes so crap wouldn't get in there.

Holy toasted bearing Batman !!! You are a lucky man that did not spin. How does the crank look?

Crank looks good?! #2 and #5 bearings were the worst but the crank looked fine?? I will have some more details when I pull the crank tonight.

P.S did you get the PM I sent on Sunday? I haven't heard from the guy at all.

You ever cut the filter open? That's where the evidence will start forming...

Oil analysis would be another way you might have caught it earlier...

Even with an earlier warning there isn't much to do except open up the motor and figure out what is wrong anyway.

Yeah, we have cut it open before, but nothing recently.

Also a side note....I did find a green piece of a tubular plastic and the remains of a round ish looking metal retainer. I was told it was just a broken oil squirter. I have no idea how long that's been broken either.
 
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The crank

#2
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#5

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They honestly look fine, number 5 has some really small scratches, wont even catch a nail. Me and my dad think its fine, the pictures are a little blurry and dark, but in person they look just fine to us.
 
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