Custom radiator

Exposure time per sq inch per sec is less...ie higher velocity per pass....but the pass length is longer...i think friction/restriction and heat soak will affect it.

Did anyone check if the cross sectionaal area of the tubes per pass is greater than the inlet? If not...it wont work.
 
I've been runnin it for about 6 months and its working just fine .
Truck runs cool all the time , my fans don't eaven turn on unless I'm sitting in traffic or in town, as long as there's a little airflow across the rad it runs nice and cool
 
You just described the same experience i have with my oem single pass...

Let some factual testing do the talking...not vague opinions.

Multi pass does not cost pennies more than single...and if it worked better in the same footprint....why would oem not do it?
 
cquestad said:
Exposure time per sq inch per sec is less...ie higher velocity per pass....but the pass length is longer...i think friction/restriction and heat soak will affect it.

Did anyone check if the cross sectionaal area of the tubes per pass is greater than the inlet? If not...it wont work.
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Higher velocity in the fluid will yield better cooling do too the coolant being in a turbulent state constantly. The passes are longer definitely. Heat soak shouldn't be much different than a non triple pass radiator, I think?

I was concerned about the cross sectional area as well. I'll double measure and double check my math but I'm pretty sure the cross sectional area of each pass is equal too or slightly larger than the inlet. Additionally after each pass the coolant will be lower temp and therefore less pressure per pass. My reasoning for doing this is to attempt to get the exit temp as close to ambient as possible and maintain it there no matter the conditions. If this is the case then I should be able to successfully run my W/A intercooler off the radiator. That's a whole different topic though.

I think I definitely will run a test on my radiator and the oem radiator to measure the delta P between the two once I finish it.

Side note-Anyone have any great ways to cut 1/8" aluminum. I have tried cut off wheels and saw zaw. Cut off wheels suck and saw zaw blades don't last at all no matter the brand. This aluminum is pretty tuff stuff! Also the cheapest weld in female 3/4" NPT bungs I could find where like $8 each. Anyone know of any cheaper ones?
 
Ok, I double checked and the inlet is about 1.77 sq. in. and CSA of a pass is about 0.86. So it's 105% larger. So taking a spin off from the ideal gas law, if volume of chamber is halved pressure will double, but as the coolant cools off with each pass the pressure demand will drop. So if you can cut inlet vs outlet temp in half or better, it should also drop pressure. Correct?
 
cquestad said:
You just described the same experience i have with my oem single pass...

Let some factual testing do the talking...not vague opinions.

Multi pass does not cost pennies more than single...and if it worked better in the same footprint....why would oem not do it?
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You can come test mine if you want factual testing....not vague opinions.
The multi pass on mine was due to my Cummins Conv. and me WANTING my inlet and outlet on the same side instead of what the crackheads at Dodge did with the upper hose running across the truck! The fact that Zack and I both run electric fans was because of needing more room for our secret squirrel s!@#, the extra cooling was just a side-benefit.

Almost forgot the LOL, that way you're not real sure if I'm being a smarta!@# or not!
 
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And besides, stock sucks! Just wait untill I get time to polish it, better get your shades on!
 
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Ford 6.0 core=top & bottom tanks. Zack scores the aluminum then hits it with a shot of liquid nitrogen and breaks off like glass.
 
The threaded bungs are just a 3/8" aluminum coupler cut in half and the bottom tank has a divider in it to route water across
 
Ghostman said:
Nice work! That thing is super shiny! My aluminum is more dull white looking. :doh: Where did you get the weld in bungs, and how did you cut yours?

EDIT: looking at those pics again, how did you get a double pass with the inlet and outlet both at the top?
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LOL We use cutoff wheels to cut small stuff like this. I couldn't resist man!
 
Those must be some interesting dividers. Still looking for a better way than cutoff wheels.

But that radiator must be a triple pass, not a double.
 
Yea , tripple pass , we were gonna do a double but since rad tanks are up and down I had to tripple pass it . I cut mine with a bymetal blade on my jigsaw , the cutoff wheel leaves trash in the aluminum and contaminates the weld really bad
 
spooled05 said:
Yea , tripple pass , we were gonna do a double but since rad tanks are up and down I had to tripple pass it . I cut mine with a bymetal blade on my jigsaw , the cutoff wheel leaves trash in the aluminum and contaminates the weld really bad
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I think I have noticed that contamination. I go behind them with a tiger paw and clean it off. Ill try more blades I guess. Any brand better than dewalt?
 
Ghostman said:
I think I have noticed that contamination. I go behind them with a tiger paw and clean it off. Ill try more blades I guess. Any brand better than dewalt?
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I Found a wheel made for aluminum and stainless, its green in color and works like a champ..
Check out your local welding supply shop..
 
24vriviera said:
I Found a wheel made for aluminum and stainless, its green in color and works like a champ..
Check out your local welding supply shop..
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I'll look into those. I also went to harbor freight and bought some white blades like. 5 pack for $8. They actually cut better and last longer than the dewalt blades and cheaper!
 
Your run of the mill wafer wheels will always leave contamination. they aren't really made for non ferrous materials. you can try using a stainless dedicated brush, and clean with acetone after your cuts. that may help with the weld contamination. Really perfect long cuts can be difficult and take practice. you might want to try marking up your aluminum and taking it to a local shop that has a shear. What grade aluminum are you using?
 
Any carbide toothed wood saw blade or non ferrous blade will crush aluminum in chop saws, table saws, hand circular saws, sawzals, band saws....heck even little 4 inch battery saws or that same blade on a grinder.
 
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