draw bar hitch angle ???

05hummincummins

05hummincummins

smoked ya
Joined
Sep 5, 2009
Messages
79
On a 2.6 ppl hitch it can not be mounted no farther forward than center line of the rearend. max degree is 25 degrees . Min distance is 44 " from center of the rearend. No higher than 26" to hook point. So with those distances always being the same is there advantage of having it at 25 degrees compared to say 15 degrees? I no everyone has a different opinion and im wanting to hear them. Im getting ready to start building hitch and wanna do it right the first time. The rear is welded completely solid.
 
If you mount it directly over the centerline of rear axle, 44" back, and at the top of the frame (can't remove bed interior for 2.6,) for a 26" hitch height the steepest angle you will get is ~15*. Lots of trucks hook very well with near zero angle off of a reese style hitch. How the rest of the truck is set up makes a difference
 
Ok then lets say in a perfect truck the rest of the setup is perfect. Would it help? The whole floor wouldn't need to be removed. Prob no bigger than a stack whole.
 
In a perfect world, more angle should help with hook (other factors contributing to a better one anyway). Bubba and ptpullingchassis have a lot of experience on setups and might chime in to help out here. There's some reading on the subject on Pulloff right now, but it seems like most of it is wind.
 
A draw bar hitch is only helpful to control nose lift. If you can't make your chassis setup control your nose lift, a draw bar hitch will. Because the angle of the hitch will always change to match the angle of the chain and it will never go past that point. At this point the angle you have set your draw bar to comes into effect controlling nose lift. This is only possible with enough traction to transfer weight quickly. Another reason you will see this type of hitch used is mainly for adjustability over a Reese style hitch. On another note if you are determined to build one it should be adjustable in every way possible. Draw bar hitches are most suited to 2 wheel drives because of their need to control extreme nose lift.
 
I am in the middle of the same thing so I am subscribing bet is off and leaf springs are out and cleaning the frame up
 
I like to run it at the angle of the chain as long as rules allow.

When the hook point is behind the rear of the frame it is usually best to just scrap the draw bar and just get a hook point on it that won't bend.

If set on using a drawbar, knowing how the attachment points to the frame will affect the chassis is huge.

You can put the coolest drawbar on ever, but if the attachment points to the frame are crap you might as well throw the whole thing in the scrap bin.
 
bubba2400 said:
I like to run it at the angle of the chain as long as rules allow.

When the hook point is behind the rear of the frame it is usually best to just scrap the draw bar and just get a hook point on it that won't bend.

If set on using a drawbar, knowing how the attachment points to the frame will affect the chassis is huge.

You can put the coolest drawbar on ever, but if the attachment points to the frame are crap you might as well throw the whole thing in the scrap bin.
Click to expand...

Now what do u mean by the attachment points being crap?? The adjuster bars will run to the rear and attach clear out at the hook point ,,
 
05hummincummins said:
Now what do u mean by the attachment points being crap?? The adjuster bars will run to the rear and attach clear out at the hook point ,,
Click to expand...

If it's connected to the frame in the wrong places there is no reason to use a drawbar setup because it will do nothing for the truck. Also remember that a drawbar setup can weigh more than a simple receiver style or simple rear mounted hitch.
 
05hummincummins said:
On a 2.6 ppl hitch it can not be mounted no farther forward than center line of the rearend. max degree is 25 degrees . Min distance is 44 " from center of the rearend. No higher than 26" to hook point. So with those distances always being the same is there advantage of having it at 25 degrees compared to say 15 degrees? I no everyone has a different opinion and im wanting to hear them. Im getting ready to start building hitch and wanna do it right the first time. The rear is welded completely solid.
Click to expand...


We haven't installed a draw bar hitch in any of the trucks we've built or updated in the last 3 or 4 years. If your chassis and hitch is set up correctly you shouldn't need a draw bar hitch.

Make sure the hitch is rigid no flexing.
Eliminate frame flex behind the rear axle.
These first 2 are very important.
Control overall frame flex.
We control front end lift with the front suspension stops.
 
Here are a couple of examples of what we have been building.
photo-2.jpg

photo-1-2.jpg

photo1.jpg
 
But I notice that those receivers are on angles. Is more angle better in this setup? Also looks to be that the frames lower than the top of the tires is that what makes this setupbwork ?
 
Nah, the stiffness of the frame mounting what makes it work.
Not loosing hitch height thru a long unsupported span.
Top couple examples look a lot like Engler hitches.
 
PTPULLINGCHASSIS are you normally staying negative rake on your setups or any rake if any?
 
Troy, most of his are setup that way and work good in are area. Mine will be this year but still don't have rear welded in solid. I can also go back to the drawbar if needed. Going to try both
 
05hummincummins said:
Now what do u mean by the attachment points being crap?? The adjuster bars will run to the rear and attach clear out at the hook point ,,
Click to expand...

6651CAAC-F2AC-49DD-AD42-D431FDEE1EE0_zpsy8pfdcc6.jpg


86D54A7C-9AE2-4155-A0A4-39ECEFF3F0D1_zpspgydlr4d.jpg


More than one way to skin a cat but IMO do all your frame triangulation under the frame. With the draw bar top link in tension and the bottom a bit of compression you can't make a lighter hitch and keep the weight forward.
 
I agree joesixpack that's how I build mine. I also put multiple mounting points for the front of the hitch between the frame. So I can flatten it out or put a bunch of angle on it.
 
I thought about that but then a guy would need to make it telescope well and add some weight. Unless you can push it into cheat territory (greater than 25 degrees) I'd be surprised to see much difference. Did you fool with it much to see any changes?

I know mine now hooks harder than it ever did.
 
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