Studs or head bolts?

Well if head is decked and block checked for trueness then rings cut in block...5lb increments to 130lbs?
 
So what all has to be disassembled to get the head ready to be o-ringed. Pull the VC, Pull the rockers, pullthe push rods, unhook injectors lines, then what's next if I didn't already miss something?? I am going to do it myself except the machining.
 
Take the exhaust manifold and turbo off, undo the top coolant line, undo the fuel return line on the back of the head, I think a bolt or two for the alternator bracket but not sure.
 
I would also suggest ensuring that the torque wrench you are using is accurate.
I sometimes calibrate torque wrenches for the military, and you'd be surprised how variable even mil-spec wrenches are after they have been checked/calibrated. The standard variation is 4%, which is what most come from the factory with. Torque specs are checked by properly "warming up" the wrench by breaking it 6 times at 25,50,75,100% of the max rated torque as per the manufacturer. You'd be surprised how much a difference there is between a cold wrench and one that has been "broken over".
Also, proper use makes the most difference. Ensure you are gripping the wrench ONLY in the middle of the handle (this is where the wrench is calibrated at) and that you have snug fitting sockets with no play in both the fastener-socket and socket-wrench, and that you are at a perfect 90 degree angle in relation to the fastener being torqued.
It is a must that the wrench always be stored at its lowest torque setting. No more, no less. This is to ensure spring pressure in the wrench is relieved. If you accidentially left your wrench on a higher setting overnight, no biggie. Just let it sit for 30 minutes or so at its lowest setting.
Temperature is my final point- a torque wrench should be stored in a low-humidity, moderate temperature room. If not, it's ok, but make sure that it has been in this environment some time before you use it. A torque wrench that has been frozen in the backseat of your truck in the winter isn't going to be as consistent if taken out and immediately used. It might sound weird, but I keep my torque wrenches under my bed.
I hope this helps.
 
Lance said:
don't forget to unplug the temp sensor on the back side of the head
Click to expand...

Big thing right there! The plug on the end of the sensor is super easy to break off and the only place I could get one on short notice was Cummins and I believe it was nearly $60! So be very careful.

Joe Hellmann told me he has his firerings cut in the block and I think 12mm studs and he was at 127psi boost with nitrous on his old setup! IIRC.

I think the biggest key is flatness and procedure.

When I torqued my head down I think I did 25, 50, 75, 90, 105, 115, 120, 125, 130. Then when I did my retorques I started at 120 then did 125, 130, then 135. Has worked well for me so far and I am not one bit worried about putting on my new charger and cranking out 45-50psi in a couple weeks!
 
So would the bolts give the proper crush on the rings do you think Chris?
 
TURBOLVR said:
I should hope not! it could handle that stock!!:clap:
Click to expand...

It will be a pretty hefty charger! lol And my stock gasket gave out at a wastegated 40-41PSI. And it popped pretty hardcore.

I don't have any personal experince with using stock bolts and firerings but there is a guy here close to me with stock bolts at 125 and firerings in the head and its doing good! I think with the proper torque sequence it could work very well, I would just use new bolts though for sure.
 
asauer said:
It is a must that the wrench always be stored at its lowest torque setting. No more, no less. This is to ensure spring pressure in the wrench is relieved. If you accidentially left your wrench on a higher setting overnight, no biggie. Just let it sit for 30 minutes or so at its lowest setting.
Click to expand...

Alright, I've heard this different ways. Are you supposed to back it all the way off, or just to the lowest torque setting? Wouldn't backing it off all the way do the most to relieve spring pressure?
 
To answer your question, you should store the wrench at the lowest setting listed. For example, let's say your torque wrench has settings from 40-150lb/ft. To store, you should place it on its 40lb/ft setting.
Yes, it would technically relieve the most spring pressure, but I am honestly not real sure why the standard procedure is to only go to the lowest setting. I will look into it, but my honest guess is that by only going to the lowest setting, you're not loosening the assembly too much and risking it coming apart internally. Mostly, however, the reason for storing it at its lowest setting is just an easy value to tell people to set it at- so that you don't tend to leave it on whatever value you happened to be using at the time. I don't know the fatigue rates of springs and how long they take to eventually "set in", but I would assume this could be comparable to the gun world and the fact that if magazines are left filled with ammunition over years and years, the compressed spring will eventually set in and lose its spring rate, thereby causing problems with reliable feeding. Going back to the torque wrench world, this "set-in" spring would obviously affect accuracy.
A little offtopic, but an FYI to anyone looking at buying a torque wrench- around Christmas time Craftsman had their Microtork torque wrenches (cheaper line) on sale for around $40, so I figured I might as well give them a try. I bought both a 3/8- and 1/2-inch drive, and when I checked the calibration, they were actually very excellent. They were both well within the 4% range...right along with the Snap-on and others which cost ALOT more.
 
Last edited:
Plus with springs if it doesn't have tension it will slowly unwind itself over time. Nothing that would be noticeable to the eye but it has all of the energy cooped up and without tension it will try it's hardest to relieve the tension. When you go to use the TQ wrench again it will be a different length spring..again not noticeable to the eye but enough to maybe have an effect.
 
Wow this thread has me thinking that maybe I dont need to waist the money on head studs as I dont plan to ever spray this truck. maybe twins one day and big maybe on H2O someday. Thanks guy you might have just saved me about 500 bux
 
I bought a Kobalt 1/2" drive from Lowes that is adjustable from 25-250 and supposedly it is actually manufacted by Snap-On. I bought it because I needed one and instead of the marked $95 I bought it for cost at $75 lol.
 
I love cost. I can get a pretty good deal on an electric one through carquest...cost plus 10% markup for employees. Very cool when I'm ordering parts for my truck.
 
I have worked at Cummins in milwaukee for 5 years and never seen a stretched head bolt on a 5.9. They are alwas in spec. But that is in stock application. I'm going to be running stock bolts with o-rings in my new bulid. The stock torque is (for a 12V)

step 1. All bolts 66 ft. lbs.
step 2. Long bolts 89 ft lbs.
step 3. Short bolts again 66 ft. lbs.
step 4. Long bolts again 89 ft. lbs.
step 5. All bolts + 90 degrees not 90 ft. lbs.
step 6. Small rocker pedestal bolts 18 ft. lbs.

When I get mine back together I'll try to fiqure around what final torque that is but I bet it will be close to the 150, 160 you guys are saying.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top