12V or 24V 2nd Gen (My 1st Diesel)

My job is not to tow the neophyte hillbilly line. Just because you PeePumped your 24V does not make you special or make it better.
 
badassdiesel said:
My job is not to tow the neophyte hillbilly line. Just because you PeePumped your 24V does not make you special or make it better.
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I'm special because my mom says I am!:thankyou2:

It makes it better because it drives better than it did before, and no more being left on the side of the road in -25 because it didn't feel like running that day.
 
Maybe you were not up to properly taking care of your VP? It is best for some that they go with a PeePump where they can just dump fuel of some sort in the tank and turn the key.
 
i will give you some info just put a diffent fuel pump in the 24 valves and they will do just fine, Most likely you will not find a 12 valve with under those miles most of them will be way over. If it was me find a good used 24 valve truck with the 3.55 gears cause you will use yours mostly for daily driven and your jeep dont way nothing anyway, cut the muffler off put a light programmer in like an edge with the 65 hp or quad, drop in a higher flowing air filter and you'll be set. For the best mileage look for a 2wd i wouldnt recommand getting one with any lower gear then 3.55 wish mine had them i got 4.10. With that you should see 20 mpg maybe better on the highway.
 
How much is the P-pump set up usually, is it really that complicated to install?
 
Get a nice 96'-98' year model 12v. To P-pump a 24v is expensive and takes a lot of work.
 
You want simple, reliable, and cheap...

94-98 12v, 5spd.... reliability... cant touch it... as long as there is fuel running into the fuel pump.... it will run on your garage floor with no electrical but power to the starter and shut-off solenoid.. trans, well, that speaks for itself..

If you want, you could make a few adjustments, and squeeze a little more juice out of it....

My 2 cents
Chase
 
Yes 24 valves make good power- at the cost of lift pumps, injection pumps, cracked blocks, electrical gremlins that will haunt you until the day you bale that sumbe itch, cracked exhaust manifolds, oil leaks from HELL, I would buy three actually.

Then you can have one running while you work on the other 2.


Lets look at it with common sense. Only a fool would by a 53 block. So you start looking for a truck with a non 53. You find one, great, one problem eliminated.

Next you install an Air Dog, first thing becasue you know the lift pumps are weak. Several hundred dollars on top of the truck cost already.

A week late the VP- 44 dies, because the teenager before you ran the snot out of it with 0 fuel pressure, there is a $1000+ bill.

You put that on. 6 months later your fuel pump is fried again?

WTF! you cry!! turns out the fuel got hot and fried the electronics, so sorry.

You buy another pump, and start looking into fuel coolers for petes sake.

6 months later, that NON 53 block you looked so hard for? CRACKS.
The story goes on and on.


94-98 12 Valve?
Fix the dowel pin when you get it, good to go for a million miles. 450HP streetable HP with 22 MPG. Unheard of in a 24 valve.

Facts boys, boys, facts. But I'm the one thats clueless.

Do a search on the problems I listed above.
 
Sledpuller said:
Yes 24 valves make good power- at the cost of lift pumps, injection pumps, cracked blocks, electrical gremlins that will haunt you until the day you bale that sumbe itch, cracked exhaust manifolds, oil leaks from HELL, I would buy three actually.

Then you can have one running while you work on the other 2.


Lets look at it with common sense. Only a fool would by a 53 block. So you start looking for a truck with a non 53. You find one, great, one problem eliminated.

Next you install an Air Dog, first thing becasue you know the lift pumps are weak. Several hundred dollars on top of the truck cost already.

A week late the VP- 44 dies, because the teenager before you ran the snot out of it with 0 fuel pressure, there is a $1000+ bill.

You put that on. 6 months later your fuel pump is fried again?

WTF! you cry!! turns out the fuel got hot and fried the electronics, so sorry.

You buy another pump, and start looking into fuel coolers for petes sake.

6 months later, that NON 53 block you looked so hard for? CRACKS.
The story goes on and on.


94-98 12 Valve?
Fix the dowel pin when you get it, good to go for a million miles. 450HP streetable HP with 22 MPG. Unheard of in a 24 valve.

Facts boys, boys, facts. But I'm the one thats clueless.

Do a search on the problems I listed above.
Click to expand...

Yeah, You hit it dead on!!

When you look in autotrader, why do you think there is twice as many 24 valves vs. 12 valves?
 
With all the reading on forums and talking face to face with actual owners of this truck that drive and work them everyday and thanks to your help, I want a 12V. I'm looking for a 2nd Gen. 12V manual trans. 4x4. I've got time to look, no rush here. I've got this summer and next fall semester. The point I'm at now is that I'll probably sell my built Jeep TJ and later when I'm done with school I'll have time and money to build and wheel a rig. My Jeep is just way to nice to trailer it only and I just don't have the money to keep the Jeep and buy a new truck and trailer, it would be nice, but I just can't do it. So guys keep your eyes for a 12V for me, I would appreciate it. Anymore advice is welcomed as well.
 
badassdiesel said:
Says the guy making 450hp with his 12v. See the problem Tejas is that people are really good at picking up stuff on the innerweb that they have no first hand knowledge about and repeating it verbatim because they think it will make other people think they know what they are taking about. Don't fall for it. Putting a decent fuel pump on is a cheap price to pay for the drivability a 24v will give you over a 12v. You're not building a 1000hp sled puller right...
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Sledpuller said:
Yes 24 valves make good power- at the cost of lift pumps, injection pumps, cracked blocks, electrical gremlins that will haunt you until the day you bale that sumbe itch, cracked exhaust manifolds, oil leaks from HELL, I would buy three actually.

Then you can have one running while you work on the other 2.


Lets look at it with common sense. Only a fool would by a 53 block. So you start looking for a truck with a non 53. You find one, great, one problem eliminated.

Next you install an Air Dog, first thing becasue you know the lift pumps are weak. Several hundred dollars on top of the truck cost already.

A week late the VP- 44 dies, because the teenager before you ran the snot out of it with 0 fuel pressure, there is a $1000+ bill.

You put that on. 6 months later your fuel pump is fried again?

WTF! you cry!! turns out the fuel got hot and fried the electronics, so sorry.

You buy another pump, and start looking into fuel coolers for petes sake.

6 months later, that NON 53 block you looked so hard for? CRACKS.
The story goes on and on.


94-98 12 Valve?
Fix the dowel pin when you get it, good to go for a million miles. 450HP streetable HP with 22 MPG. Unheard of in a 24 valve.

Facts boys, boys, facts. But I'm the one thats clueless.

Do a search on the problems I listed above.
Click to expand...

This must be some of that innerweb yikity yack that Badassdiesel was referring too.. BAD DIESEL your the doof... :kick:
 
Please fellas, don't bash the 24v unless you have personaly owned one and had said problems. It just isn't fair. That being said, this is my experience with 24v's.

The VP44 is not as weak as it is made out to be. Mine had 160k on it, ran for like 6 months or so with 0psi (not sure how long exactly as I hadn't checked) Pulled it, raced it, ran a Smarty and Jammer 4's with 0psi and I could not kill that pump. I replaced it only because I got a deal on a low mileage pump that was newer, but my original pump is still running on another truck.

I have never in my life heard of a cracked block anywhere but on the internet. Take that any way you like.

I have never heard of a VP44 that had adequate fuel supply dying, anywhere but on the internet. You can take that any way you like.

An electronically controled injection pump is more streetable, plain and simple. Sure, you can setup a 12v and its great, but you can't adjust anything on the fly. When your tooling down the road with your 12v all detuned for mileage and some punk in a Powerstroke starts messin with ya, your screwed, because its turned down and there is nothing you can do. Where as I crank up my ADR, smoke the stroker, then turn it back down and have a nice day.
And finally, my brother is returning his 12v to stock and building the 24v instead. It is cheaper to make 500-600 hp with a 24v, assuming you build the 12v right and not just gut everything in the P7100. Especially if you pay someone to 'tune' the P7100 and advance the timing.

24v
ADR-$600

12v
Fuel plate-$225, GSK-$125, DV's-$280, labor for timing advance-$200-400 pending shop rate.

Now your P-pump can make as much power as the VP44. Injectors are cheaper for the 24v as well. I know that the OP isn't going for power, but just sayin. And your right, the p-pump with those mods will make more power than the VP44, at least it will be easier. However, 90% of people are not going for more power than that, so it is nearly irrelevant.

Before you buy a 24v, cycle the key and make sure the lift pump still works. If it does, buy it, put a Fass or Airdog on it and never worry about it again. Just trying to give you a fair comparison. Lemme have it boys!
 
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i my self have both in my hands now, drive them both and besides the vp44 burning up, my 97 rides alot better than my 01 donno why it just does.... i would never sell my 97, it's easy to work on and fun to tinker with... and the dashes in the 98.5 and up crack and thats no fun to put in... so, if your not talking bout engine wise i'd still go w/ a 2nd gen 12v just my opinion....
oh and the there are plenty of the 12v w/ lower mile the black one in my avatar is my 97 w/ 150,xxx miles.... motor's a virgin, as in no power adders, until i got it, fresh paint, and picked it up for $8,xxx, you just have to be patient, i waited a year or so looking for that truck, just do your research and know what you want and don't settle... thats my advice
 
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take it you really need 4x4?

with the std trans i wouldnt get 4x4 unless i absolutely had to have it

or if you go with a auto 4x4 would be fun for drag racing!
 
Limited said:
Please fellas, don't bash the 24v unless you have personaly owned one and had said problems. It just isn't fair. That being said, this is my experience with 24v's.

The VP44 is not as weak as it is made out to be. Mine had 160k on it, ran for like 6 months or so with 0psi (not sure how long exactly as I hadn't checked) Pulled it, raced it, ran a Smarty and Jammer 4's with 0psi and I could not kill that pump. I replaced it only because I got a deal on a low mileage pump that was newer, but my original pump is still running on another truck.

I have never in my life heard of a cracked block anywhere but on the internet. Take that any way you like.

I have never heard of a VP44 that had adequate fuel supply dying, anywhere but on the internet. You can take that any way you like.

An electronically controled injection pump is more streetable, plain and simple. Sure, you can setup a 12v and its great, but you can't adjust anything on the fly. When your tooling down the road with your 12v all detuned for mileage and some punk in a Powerstroke starts messin with ya, your screwed, because its turned down and there is nothing you can do. Where as I crank up my ADR, smoke the stroker, then turn it back down and have a nice day.
And finally, my brother is returning his 12v to stock and building the 24v instead. It is cheaper to make 500-600 hp with a 24v, assuming you build the 12v right and not just gut everything in the P7100. Especially if you pay someone to 'tune' the P7100 and advance the timing.

24v
ADR-$600

12v
Fuel plate-$225, GSK-$125, DV's-$280, labor for timing advance-$200-400 pending shop rate.

Now your P-pump can make as much power as the VP44. Injectors are cheaper for the 24v as well. I know that the OP isn't going for power, but just sayin. And your right, the p-pump with those mods will make more power than the VP44, at least it will be easier. However, 90% of people are not going for more power than that, so it is nearly irrelevant.

Before you buy a 24v, cycle the key and make sure the lift pump still works. If it does, buy it, put a Fass or Airdog on it and never worry about it again. Just trying to give you a fair comparison. Lemme have it boys!
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How many vp44 pumped 12v are out there??? How many p pumped 24v are out there??? If you want to make it fair dont forget to mention the 500 dollars for the airdog and 150-200 dollars to install the airdog on the 24v. You can also put a valet switch on the 12valve to make it more tame for highway use.. I do not own a vp44 powered cummins, my brother inlaw has replaced his pump 2 times on his 2000, and it has less than 60000 miles on the truck.. I guess the best way is to just search and make your own descision on witch one will better suit you.. I love my 12v just as much as the next man that loves his 24v.. I also really like my CR to, but the 12v is just more fun IMO.. Good luck with what ever you choose..
 
Limited said:
Please fellas, don't bash the 24v unless you have personaly owned one and had said problems.

I have never in my life heard of a cracked block anywhere but on the internet. Take that any way you like.

I have never heard of a VP44 that had adequate fuel supply dying, anywhere but on the internet. You can take that any way you like.

!
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Ok, so I am a liar until you see the POS 1999 model in the driveway!! cool!!

Where are you located? I would love to show you what a cracked 53 looks like that has been lock and stitched twice. Would you believe pictures?
neighbor lost one the other day...stock truck...

We lost a44 with 19-21 PSI, due to heat, there again I guess it didnt happen becasue I posted it on the net?!?!?!?!?!!??

The things I posted are true, and not rare by any means.:bang:bang:bang:bang

I love my 24!!!:banned:
 
wpeschel said:
This must be some of that innerweb yikity yack that Badassdiesel was referring too.. BAD DIESEL your the doof... :kick:
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This is exactly how this stuff starts. One guy has a bad experience and then every innerweb expert out there repeats that sad story and soon its common knowledge that if you own a 24v its not if its when it grenades and leaves you stranded in death valley where you die a slow and agonizing death. Shut up doof!
 
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