12V or 24V 2nd Gen (My 1st Diesel)

Everybody has a bad experience with 24 valves, its common knowledge that if you own a 24v its not if its when it grenades and leaves you stranded in death valley like where those guys died a slow and agonizing death.
 
badassdiesel said:
This is exactly how this stuff starts. One guy has a bad experience and then every innerweb expert out there repeats that sad story and soon its common knowledge that if you own a 24v its not if its when it grenades and leaves you stranded in death valley where you die a slow and agonizing death. Shut up doof!
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:hehe: LMFAO... You my friend are an
 

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i'd buy a 12v, to me they are easier to work on. i haven't had any problems out of mine, and if you search around you can get the parts to mod. it pretty cheap, you can pick up a fuel plate on ebay from 30-50 dollars and get your injectors and other parts pretty cheap if you look around.
 
I really want to go with the 12V, is there any way to check the KDP while I'm looking at the truck?
 
Ask them about it, if they are clueless it needs checked and fixed.other than gushing oil out the front cover, no way to check by looking.
 
Not really, look real good at the timing cover in front of the injection pump...as long as its not cracked either the CASE or the cover, I would say your okay, just get it done ASAP.... CHEAP insurance...

You know... all this chat about bad pumps, and cracked blocks, etc...

Anyway, care to mention why my truck, now with 107-110k, has a P-pumped 12v?

Not bashing the motor, I would have just p-pumped mine...but.... for some reason it was cracked on the passenger side, just below the head....doesnt matter... just swapped the whole d-train...

BTW, on the list of parts for power...

Dont need a fuel plate, dont need DVs, GSK... yeah... and... maybe if you want injectors, you can get them around 400ish.. give or take...

Besides, you forgot to mention the minimum 500 for the AirDog to replace the factory LP...

Anyway... when you find the truck you want, enjoy...


Chase
 
i really like my vp 24v but next winter the trucks getting a ppump more reliable and vps make no power over 3k rpms im gonna do a mild ppump swap for around 650hp and a s465 but ihave both a 24v and 12v a local farmer has 3 12vs all over 850,000miles and the only thing hes ever done was a new tranny they are stock and run like brand new
 
Limited said:
An electronically controled injection pump is more streetable, plain and simple. Sure, you can setup a 12v and its great, but you can't adjust anything on the fly. When your tooling down the road with your 12v all detuned for mileage and some punk in a Powerstroke starts messin with ya, your screwed, because its turned down and there is nothing you can do. Where as I crank up my ADR, smoke the stroker, then turn it back down and have a nice day.
And finally, my brother is returning his 12v to stock and building the 24v instead. It is cheaper to make 500-600 hp with a 24v, assuming you build the 12v right and not just gut everything in the P7100. Especially if you pay someone to 'tune' the P7100 and advance the timing.

24v
ADR-$600

12v
Fuel plate-$225, GSK-$125, DV's-$280, labor for timing advance-$200-400 pending shop rate.

Now your P-pump can make as much power as the VP44. Injectors are cheaper for the 24v as well. I know that the OP isn't going for power, but just sayin. And your right, the p-pump with those mods will make more power than the VP44, at least it will be easier. However, 90% of people are not going for more power than that, so it is nearly irrelevant.

Before you buy a 24v, cycle the key and make sure the lift pump still works. If it does, buy it, put a Fass or Airdog on it and never worry about it again. Just trying to give you a fair comparison. Lemme have it boys!
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My truck with an II HRVP on it would surge like a mofo at light throttle. Was only running 80hp sticks and a smarty. Poor idle too.

P-pump idles smooth, drives smooth. Want to know how to detune your 12v on the fly? Let off the skinny pedal a bit. Running the truck with the pump plateless with no AFC will get you the same mileage as a truck with the plate all the way back with a super tight AFC on the highway. If your foot has more than two positions (to the floor or off the pedal), it can be driven the same way too.


FWIW, my VP died with 7 psi WOT fuel pressure. I wasn't in death valley, but on the side of a real busy highway in the middle of winter is just as much fun.
 
one way you might be able to tell that the kdp was tabbed is looking at the timing case and you might be able to see a little gasket maker. on the in between the case, other wise you can't really tell, and with a 12v mileage doesn't really matter. i thought it did thats why i bought my truck with only 104k on it, but i've had to put more into my truck, then my brother and my dad combined and both of them have over 200k. its all about how the previous owner maintained the truck....
 
As far as the KDP, if it was cured with the jig bolt, you can look at the timing case to see if there is a counter-sunk, allen head bolt going through the side. That's what was used in my old 97 to stop it from moving.

As far as reliable, economical power, my old 97 did 328/843 with only an 11 plate and 15* timing, and consistently got me 19 mpg driving like it was stolen. Had very good towing manners. BTW, it was a 5 spd. Given the chance to do it again, I'd add a 14cm gated housing, a 60mm HX40 compressor side, 16.5* timing. My buddy has a 96 with almost that setup, runs cooler than my 97 did, and seems to pull harder.

The personal experience I have with 24 valves is with a 99 and an 01. The 99 went down 3 times, 2 vp44's and a cracked 53 block. I know I can get pics of that block, and one of the vp's is still laying in the shop. The 01 never had a problem, other than a front seal. Both had an Edge EZ, BD manifolds, 14 cm gated housings, intakes, and FASS fuel systems. Nothing special, and not very demanding mods either. Both were used to pull an enclosed trailer with varying weights up to 14,000 lbs. 99 was a 5 spd, 01 was an HO 6 spd. Take if for what it's worth.
 
That's a good looking truck Tejas. If it's enough cahs to do something with I'd be all over that. Tejas
 
Well it's got an auto. I've seem cost for a local transmission shop do the rebuild for $2500 and that just scares me.
 
FWIW you will probably want a aftermarket fuel system on a 12v over 500hp or so anyway. The P7100 kinda has an advantage also as 12v's use a mechanical lift pump that doesn't seem to go out.

I'm sure the cracked blocks and stuff happen, but until I have a problem with my 24v, I don't see the need to complain about it.....knocking on wood...
 
OK so am I thinking right about this or not...

Would it be safer to get a '01-'02 24V vs. a '98.5-00 24V considering the fuel systems?

I know the 5spd trannys tend to lose 5th gear, but any problems with the '02 6spd manual tranny's?
 
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