47re won't shift out of first

Bringing this back.

I got the truck back up and running, but it was short lived as the trans is now doing what it was before. I'm assuming because ambient temperatures are now higher than they were before when the trans had to warm up first.

So trans loses LU, then OD, then 3rd, then 2nd, as the trans temp rises. I'm assuming its because of the fluid thinning out at it gets warmer and leaking past a seal. I was thinking a servo at first, but that wouldn't explain losing all the gears the way it is. And last time I dropped the pan to try to figure this out, I took out the gov assembly and broke it down/reassembled it. That fixed it for a couple month. That leads me to believe it was an oring on the gov sensor/solenoid, or the gasket itself. One of the orings on the either the sensor or solenoid (can't remember, but it's the one that goes into the middle of the governor housing body) was very loose. That worried me, but it worked after I put it all back together so I didn't think about it again.

So my plan is to get new orings and gasket for the entire gov assembly/housing, and see if that works.

Does my logic make sense? Or could I be overlooking something simple? It has been a long day.
 
Ill add my 2 cents, but its not going to be worth much......

My Manual VB is doing very close to the same thing. Basically either no 3rd or 2nd and third not agreeing with each other.

Ive basically torn the trans down as far as I can with it in the truck, air tested it, you name it I did it. But with a manual VB its just flat out hard to ever tell whats going on. But to make a long story short, and the words your going to hate, its getting pulled and rebuilt! Saw way too much junk in the trans pan and all over the filter to not think there isnt something caught in there somewhere that Ill never find.

Plus I think its better in the long run to get it out, rebuilt and looked over than limp it along and possibly ruin something really expensive!
 
I am no expert here, but my understanding is that when a VB is in drive and going through gears, the pressure transducer reads pressure, and then the gov solenoid pushes more than the reading until it is ready to shift, then it allows for fluid to pass. Once again, not sure on this, that's just how I understand it. If you aren't getting power to these, is there a chance that the gov solenoid is letting fluid run past it and not letting you do what you want to?

I'd double check with someone who knows what they're talking about on this more than me, but I would think that you can make a plug for where the gov solenoid goes (or unbolt the two bolts to get the body down and tap/plug it) and see if that helps.

Mine is a built autoVB 47re. Shifts hard when I manually control it (especially locked up 1 to 2), now I'm kind of curious if unplugging the trans would effect manual positions...
 
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Unplugging it just disables OD and LU. I still have 1, 2 and 3, until it warms up.

IF the gov solenoid still controls pressure in a manual vb, then maybe that is whats wrong. I thought it and the sensor were pretty much useless in a manual, so I assumed it would be the seals around them. Maybe I'll just replace both to be sure?


Also, last time I had the pan off, there was a minimal amount of fuzz, and the filter was clean. Replaced the filter and about 7qts of oil anyways.
 
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If I just replace the orings on the sensors, do they need to be atf resistant, or just any rubber oring? I'm not sure if rubber can handle atf.
 
madmikeismad said:
If I just replace the orings on the sensors, do they need to be atf resistant, or just any rubber oring? I'm not sure if rubber can handle atf.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure, but let me see if I still have my old ones sitting in my 12V Junk drawer. I'll try and remember to look tonight. The seals were still great, I just replaced stuff while I had the pan off.

Call up a reputable trans shop with great guys to deal with (one that modifies and builds valve bodies like Lavon at FirePunk or Dave at Goerend), and see what they tell you. It might be worth it to change valve body's to gain the shops support and know for sure you've got a solid one.
On that note, I have a RedLine built trans and Lavon has helped me with some issues even though I didn't buy my trans there. So he's got my vote, and I buy my trans parts (just transducer and solenoid so far) from him/them now.
 
I have a guy I'm loyal too, but he's on vacation with his family until sometime this week lol, so I'm trying not to bother him. I know the rest of the trans is good because it still works when fluid is cold, so it has to be a temp/fluid thinning issue.
 
O-Ring Materials Compatible with Automatic Transmission Fluid
(select a material to show its compatible chemicals) Aflas (4) Buna-N (Nitrile) (4) Butyl (1) Chemraz (4) Epichlorohydrin (0) Ethylene-Propylene (1) Fluorocarbon (4) Fluorosilicone (0) Hypalon (2) Kalrez (0) Natural Rubber (1) Neoprene (3) Nitrile, Hydrogenated (4) Polyacrylate (4) Polysulfide (0) Polyurethane, Cast (0) Polyurethane, Millable (3) Silicone (1) Styrene Butadiene (1) Teflon, Virgin (4) Vamac (1)

Key to O-Ring Material Compatibility Ratings (4) Good, both for static and dynamic seals (3) Fair, usually OK for static seals (2) Sometimes OK for static seals; not OK for dynamic seals (1) Poor (0) No Data
 
By definition...sure. Or just use the ones that are good for both. I tried checking the local parts store to see what they are in the cheap assortment packs (I happened to be there anyways), place didn't have any. LOL
 
Yeah. I'm running out of time, going to use some from a John Deere hydraulic/trans oring kit that's already available. Hopefully there the right material.
 
My con leave ends this weekend, and I won't be able to work on it maybe one day a week if I'm lucky. But the seals are already on the way, so I'll just dump some more time into the vw turbo.
 
F you're on con leave you shouldn't be working on anything.
 
Nah, doc said I can do whatever I feel like trying, just be gentle. Laying under the truck isn't too hard on the knee.
 
Well, it worked for about 6 miles, then I lost 3rd, then 2nd. I did manage to get it back into 3rd once, and now overdrive and lock up are no problem. would that mean whatever controls second, and maybe third, is leaking pressure?

And I didn't think about this until after I had it apart, but on the governor housing the soft gasket goes between the governor body and the thin metal sheet right?
 
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