6.4L Cummins Build Complete and awesome.

Cflanery88 said:
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Mahle 6.7 QSB STD. Pistons with .030 flycuts ordered from Enterprise.


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Nice thing about the QSB pistons is not actually having to take a lot of material off the crown for the flycuts, should't drop CR much. Very nice build. Are the Wagler rods fractured cap?
 
VMacKenzie said:
Nice thing about the QSB pistons is not actually having to take a lot of material off the crown for the flycuts, should't drop CR much. Very nice build. Are the Wagler rods fractured cap?
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The Wagler rods have a machined tongue and Groove designed to align and lock cap to eliminate offset caps and maintain a true bore.
 
Cflanery88 said:
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Three generations of water pumps I decided to go with the 2nd gen pump all the way to the right. Bolt pattern and sealing is all the same.


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Is there a proven benefit to one over the other?
 
What's the pump in the middle with no weep hole and the impeller shielding ? I've never seen it... I've seen many of both the other styles.
 
I know the pump on the left (the 6.7 pump) flows more than the 5.9 pump.
 
QMFB said:
What's the pump in the middle with no weep hole and the impeller shielding ? I've never seen it... I've seen many of both the other styles.
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That was the pump that came up for a 06 5.9 common rail. Weep hole is on the outside under the pulley. Same as what came off my truck. The one of the right is 2nd gen style and the plastic impeller is for a 6.7. All are interchangeable. And the only benefit I see in the one on the right is I've heard the shielding can come off of the middle pump but does flow more, and the plastic impellered pump can deteriorate and also spin on the shaft but flows more than both other pumps so I've heard.
 
Well that explains it. I've got one Early '04, and two 6.7's...
 
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Guys night in the shop tonight at my buddy Jims was a success. DNJ GOV pressure solenoid swap, BD 94-99 transducer conversion, and a new harness did the trick. Pretty sure the connector for the harness was cracked causing trans fluid to leak into the connector was the main cause of my problem.


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Don't know anybody running it but I thought I'd give it a try.
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Knowing you obviously have a built trans, why the D&J setup?

Only asking because I was told by a couple folks to leave it out when I built my 48re. I had one installed before building the trans, and it's not installed now.
Claim was too high of line pressure and wasn't needed for a rebuilt trans. I was directed to run a brogwarner (metal body GOV pressure solenoid) and leave my D&J setup out.

I now have shiny billet parts not being used.
 
Red Sleeper said:
Knowing you obviously have a built trans, why the D&J setup?

Only asking because I was told by a couple folks to leave it out when I built my 48re. I had one installed before building the trans, and it's not installed now.
Claim was too high of line pressure and wasn't needed for a rebuilt trans. I was directed to run a brogwarner (metal body GOV pressure solenoid) and leave my D&J setup out.

I now have shiny billet parts not being used.
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Me and my buddy both just switched to the DNJ setup and love it so far. The GM gov pressure solenoid is suppose to be built better and be more reliable. And line pressure has everything to do with how the valve body is setup and adjusted not the actual gov pressure solenoid. I had the upgraded borg in mine which I don't think it or the transducer was bad but they are prone to fail or flood with higher line pressure. The GM one will withstand a higher baseline line pressure. I'm currently at 200psi max line pressure and will be going for between 210-220 when the trans come back out. I noticed immediately the first time warming the trans up how much better the trans shifted and preformed Vs having the Borg solenoid.
 
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Finally got around to weighing her. That's with me in the drivers seat. Hopefully heading to the track tomorrow.


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Well didn't get to race tonight due to a rain cancellation but they are hoping to have a go at it again next Friday. Also my buddy decided he needs some air bags lmao.


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