70 More Horsepower

I have the 47RE valve body... One question, how do you get your WOT shift points to a lower RPM??? Is there different valve body springs for WOT shift points? I know Tim Barber showed me how to change the springs for the light throttle shift points, is there something similar for WOT??

Lavon

Mountaineer said:
I say your need more fuel. However you get it, it just looks like your cleaning what you have up pretty clean to almost clear.
I will have to agree with smokem and say more fuel is in order.
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So if more fuel is in order, I'm left with only a few options... a different SO VP, Monster pump, or II Dragon Flow VP44.
I feel that my injectors are sufficient to do the job.

I don't think another SO VP will help since I've ran my stock pump, a new SO from Blue Chip that doesn't make over 484HP, a Friends new II pump, and the current II pump that is 1.5yrs old

If other SO's supply the fuel then it makes me think that a monster or Dragon Flow isn't gonna be of full potential until I get the SO pump to put out what it should.

Lavon
 
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LAmiller said:
I have the 47RE valve body... One question, how do you get your WOT shift points to a lower RPM??? Is there different valve body springs for WOT shift points? I know Tim Barber showed me how to change the springs for the light throttle shift points, is there something similar for WOT??
Click to expand...

With the 47RE valve body, I throw the lockup switch before I stage, and as soon as it hits 2nd gear it locks up. As far as I know, none of the 47RE valve bodies will lockup before 2nd gear. I was scared to death to try this the first time, because you have to totally commit to it. If you try it at part throttle, you will get more shaking and vibration then you would think possible. Caution is in order though. Doing this can break things if they are not up to snuff.

To be honest I let Matt and Dave at Ultimate Transmission adjust the shift points. I take it to them and ask them to lower the shift points by 100rpm, and the do it. I do know that the kick down cable does have an effect on the WOT shift, but going to far can reduce governor pressure to the point you can smoke clutches. There is a valve in the valve body, that can be shortened as well. Go to far and you will get stacked shifts. I just leave it to Matt and Dave....

The tachs on our trucks are also pretty slow to respond. It wasn't until I had a digital tach with a recall on mine (redline box), that I realized how high the rpm was going on the 1-2 shift. On the tach it looked like about 3000rpm, and the redline it read 3274. Very consistently. I got it down to 2900 and picked up a bunch.

You should be able to pickup about a .1 in the 60', with a change in tire combination, spring clamps, shocks, and the amount of boost you leave with. This will be about .2's in the 1/4.

I would say at least another .2's but probably more like .3's once you get through playing with shift points and the lockup.

Different Drag Comp's seem to fuel differently as well. Rip (at Source Automotive) has a Drag Comp, that is almost .2's quicker on my truck then my Drag Comp is. This is back to back trips down the track. I am sure there are others out there like that too.

Hope this helps, and good luck racing QD!

Paul
 
Paul, Goerend has a 47re vb that will lock up in 1st, it was nasty so I went back to 2nd gear lock up. Maybe with a higher stall converter it would have worked better.

Good info on the tach, makes good sense.
 
paulb said:
With the 47RE valve body, I throw the lockup switch before I stage, and as soon as it hits 2nd gear it locks up. As far as I know, none of the 47RE valve bodies will lockup before 2nd gear. I was scared to death to try this the first time, because you have to totally commit to it. If you try it at part throttle, you will get more shaking and vibration then you would think possible. Caution is in order though. Doing this can break things if they are not up to snuff.

To be honest I let Matt and Dave at Ultimate Transmission adjust the shift points. I take it to them and ask them to lower the shift points by 100rpm, and the do it. I do know that the kick down cable does have an effect on the WOT shift, but going to far can reduce governor pressure to the point you can smoke clutches. There is a valve in the valve body, that can be shortened as well. Go to far and you will get stacked shifts. I just leave it to Matt and Dave....

The tachs on our trucks are also pretty slow to respond. It wasn't until I had a digital tach with a recall on mine (redline box), that I realized how high the rpm was going on the 1-2 shift. On the tach it looked like about 3000rpm, and the redline it read 3274. Very consistently. I got it down to 2900 and picked up a bunch.

You should be able to pickup about a .1 in the 60', with a change in tire combination, spring clamps, shocks, and the amount of boost you leave with. This will be about .2's in the 1/4.

I would say at least another .2's but probably more like .3's once you get through playing with shift points and the lockup.

Different Drag Comp's seem to fuel differently as well. Rip (at Source Automotive) has a Drag Comp, that is almost .2's quicker on my truck then my Drag Comp is. This is back to back trips down the track. I am sure there are others out there like that too.

Hope this helps, and good luck racing QD!

Paul
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This is great info... I appreciate it! I'm going to pay attention to my shift points and see exactly what there doing and go from there... but what you say makes perfect sense and I could see definite gains from it.

I have tried hitting the switch before the launch and it does lock in 2nd but I haven't tried it at the track.

Do you mind giving details about spring clamps? I have never done anything about suspension since it usually hooked relatively well. Also the shocks are aftermarket but have over 120K on them.

Lavon
 
My truck will lock up if you are stoped and flip the switch just kills the engine.I thought that you could just flip the switch on then when it went into second it would come on but it does not??
 
DART505 said:
My truck will lock up if you are stoped and flip the switch just kills the engine.I thought that you could just flip the switch on then when it went into second it would come on but it does not??
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It depends on your valve body, if you dont want 1st gear lockup, you need to talk to your transmission builder and have him make the proper changes.

Lavon
 
It has a Suncoast complete that was bought when tranny was freshened.
 
talk to suncoast about it... they can make the change for you. Just tell them you don't want 1st gear lockup.

Lavon
 
Any chance you have a weak vp?

I ran pretty consistent 11.80's (best of 11.76) with less then what you have.

I had a stock cam, stock intercooler, stock air horn, so vp, etc. The twins were a 35/40 16 over a 26cm 3b with an external gate around the 35/40. I had custom mach 7's, a drag comp and BD RAD. Fass 95gph at about 13psi. DTT trans with one of their old 89 converters. I would lock the convertor right after the 2-3 shift. 60's were low to mid 1.6's leaving with about 18psi boost. 3.55 gears and 265 or 285's (used both at one time or another) on stock rims. My truck was 6850 race weight.

I think you have everything you need to go as fast as you're hoping to go. My guess is something isn't working 100%.

Chris
 
c-hawk said:
Any chance you have a weak vp?

I ran pretty consistent 11.80's (best of 11.76) with less then what you have.

I had a stock cam, stock intercooler, stock air horn, so vp, etc. The twins were a 35/40 16 over a 26cm 3b with an external gate around the 35/40. I had custom mach 7's, a drag comp and BD RAD. Fass 95gph at about 13psi. DTT trans with one of their old 89 converters. I would lock the convertor right after the 2-3 shift. 60's were low to mid 1.6's leaving with about 18psi boost. 3.55 gears and 265 or 285's (used both at one time or another) on stock rims. My truck was 6850 race weight.

I think you have everything you need to go as fast as you're hoping to go. My guess is something isn't working 100%.

Chris
Click to expand...

I agree 100%... you did have a short box right? so I may be a few hundred heavier. As far as the VP, The current one was Brand new from II 1.5yrs ago, and I had also tried the second II VP when a friend bought a new one. I don't think the pump is weak.

I'm going to make a few drive line changes then work with calibrating the TPS, checking all AIT and MAP sensors and try a few different Comp boxes.

Also should I try to get a good set of 33" tires for my stock wheels or are 265's better??

Lavon
 
LAmiller said:
I agree 100%... you did have a short box right? so I may be a few hundred heavier. As far as the VP, The current one was Brand new from II 1.5yrs ago, and I had also tried the second II VP when a friend bought a new one. I don't think the pump is weak.

I'm going to make a few drive line changes then work with calibrating the TPS, checking all AIT and MAP sensors and try a few different Comp boxes.

Also should I try to get a good set of 33" tires for my stock wheels or are 265's better??

Lavon
Click to expand...

Yes my truck was a short box quad cab 4x4. As far as tires, my run to run variations were bigger then the difference i saw between the 285's and the 265's, if that makes sense. My single fastest pass was on the 265's though. A better set of tires probably would have helped me a little bit with my 60' though.

I still say you have everything you need to go that fast, something(s) on your truck just isn't working up to it's potential.

Good luck man. I hope you get it figured out soon.

Chris

I just re-read and noticed where you are planning to try a few different drag comps. I think that is a great idea. I have seen a big variation in those boxes. Some just seem to make more power then others, but i have no idea why.
 
paulb said:
I don't know what your dyno curve looks like, but you are probably shifting a little high. Mine works out best about 2900rpm. As a rule of thumb, you want the shift to happen so that the rpm doesn't drop down below peak torque. If it does, you may not be able to keep the turbos spooled. If your peak torque is about 2200rpm, having it pull down to 2400rpm at the shift would be a good starting point. I really like racing with the Drag Comp. However even though the Drag version fuels to ~3200 rpm, it will start dropping off well before that. Get it into OD quicker too if you can.
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Take a look at one of my old dyno graphs, I did this with a blown Head gasket and it was before my injector, Hx40 and ecm changes. Why no torque??? the twins usually light around 1800-2000rpm on the street.

lavon.png


Lavon
 
Do you mind giving details about spring clamps? I have never done anything about suspension since it usually hooked relatively well. Also the shocks are aftermarket but have over 120K on them.
Click to expand...

Here are some crappy pictures of mine. Those are on the forward part of the leafs.

121408_162301.jpg


121408_162300.jpg
 
When I started using them i didn't have the power to really wrap the axle, so I couldn't tell. The more power, the worse it is thought...
 
I don't have pics of my clamps (and they are pretty crude). The spring clamps help in a couple of different areas. They will reduce wheel hop, which can destroy parts. They reduce pinion angle change, which can destory parts. From a racing benefit, spring clamps will decrease reaction time, because instead of wraping the axle and moving, the truck already has the axle wrapped, so it just moves. They also tend to let you launch at a higher boost, because of the decrease tendency to having wheel hop.

Paul
 
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