95' Junker Drag Truck

npe3484 said:
What are you using for a trans cooler now that the heat exchanger is MIA?
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Haven't decided yet, I've thought about adding a fan/cooler setup under the bed and then routing fluid through the factory cooler up on the radiator.

I've also thought about adding long heater hose lines and running the factory heat exchanger down by the transmission. The overall weigh bias front to rear is terrible right now so I'd like to mount any added weight from fluid coolers in the rear. At the same time, it's not always cost effective to run 20' of line just to move 15 lbs rearward.
 
I used this one Derale 15800 Derale Electra-Cool Remote Oil/Trans Cooler mounted under the bed.

DE_1163_Derale_Oil_Cooler_3x.jpg


The plan is to use the 160* thermostat that comes with the cooler as my sole means of fluid cooling. I'll add the stock auxiliary unit in front of the radiator if temps can't stay under control with just the Derale and fan.

I got sent to South Carolina for work the day after getting my trans re-installed (finally), so I can't give you any good input yet. Hopefully I'll be back home by the weekend.
 
shiftycapone said:
Thats a good lookin hot pipe ya got there Big Blue:woohoo:
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Yeah, it was professionally built.....


I was going to use it on my HT60/HX35 or HE351 setup for my 98' Daily Driver but it was just a little too long to keep the factory heat exchanger and it's a little big for just an HX35 if I go that route.... so I decided it would be a nice addition to the Junker!


Oh, and I'm going to blow away your best time of 11.8 using salvaged parts from your truck!
 
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Big Blue24 said:
Yeah, it was professionally built.....


I was going to use it on my HT60/HX35 or HE351 setup for my 98' Daily Driver but it was just a little too long to keep the factory heat exchanger and it's a little big for just an HX35 if I go that route.... so I decided it would be a nice addition to the Junker!


Oh, and I'm going to blow away your best time of 11.8 using salvaged parts from your truck!
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I'm sure you will! Too bad that's an old time....or is it? You may never know lol.

Give me a lil time to deal with having to take my baby off the road, then it's diet and cage time. We will see who's faster then!:stab:

If you need one built for the ht60 for the tow rig I got ya covered. 3" pipe fits well, and I can make it short as you need to fit. Hit me up Will!
 
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I got a set of homemade billet JBWeld freeze plugs installed. It took about an hour total to clean and JB Weld 3 freeze plugs on the side of the block and one on the rear of the block. The fourth freeze plug hole on the side of the block still has the block heater assembly and I decided to leave it in for now.

I had originally planned to drill and install machine screws to stake in the freeze plugs, however I decided it would be faster and easier to just clean the bore, sand with the dremel tool to roughen up the block surface and then add a coat of JBWeld epoxy steel. Time will tell if this is an adequate fix to prevent freeze plugs blowouts.

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My silicone hoses and boots came in so I was able to get the cold pipe between the chargers built.
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I used a 3.5" to 3" 45 degree bending reducer to transition from the HT4B outlet to my 3" coldpipe. In the past, I had bad luck with silicone bends right at the turbo outlet, however, that was in a single turbo application running at 50 psi boost so much higher outlet temperature. I can only guess right now but I think the pressure between stages will be 30-40 psi and a substantially lower temperature.

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For the high pressure charge air pipe that runs from the HE351cw outlet to the charge air cooler, I used (2) 90* 3" mandrel bends and (1) 45* 3" mandrel bend. I'm guessing pressure in this pipe will range from 70 to 100 psi and air temperature could reach 500*F. There are very few options for silicone couplers/tubing rated for 500*, with the appropriate aramid/kevlar reinforcing and high temp silicone. My solution is to use standard silicone couplings but to make sure the mandrel bent tubing is butted tightly at the splices to help protect the silicone couplers from the extreme heat. The HE351 outlet is a 2.75" hose discharge and a 3" pipe fits snug so that the 2.75" to 3" silicone reducer only has to provide an airtight seal but is not exposed directly to the 500* discharge air.
Coldpipe1.jpg


Next is a 45*3" mandrel bend, the straight cut on the 45 is butted tight to the straight leg of the 90 and a 3" silicone coupling is used as the air tight seal. This joint could have been welded but after a little practice with my cheap flux core welder, I determined that I would probably leave traces of wire and spatter inside so I went the silicone route.
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To finish the charge pipe, I need one more 90* 3" mandrel bend, it's a straight 90* shot into the charge air cooler and I have a 3.5" to 3" straight silicone reducer for that connection. This connection has me worried since this silicone coupler will have a lot of exposure to the high temp boost. I plan to run the 3" mild steel pipe into the charge air cooler as far as it will go but after about 2" it hits the taper inside the cooler. If I can't get this silicone coupler to hold, I plan to up-size the charge air pipe right before the cooler to 3.5" so that I can use a straight 3.5" aramid coupler.
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If the IC connection becomes a problem just make a metal strap for it to hold it together, while the silicone boot makes the seal.

Looking good Will. She's gonna chit and git.
 
YOUNG GUNS15 said:
I bet you break your input on the 2nd pass. lol
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Nah I bet he has to strap all those silicone joints first....

While I admire the simple, cost effective setup, I believe straps will be manditory with that setup in a drag race setting.
 
Blue... where did you order your boots from? mainly the 3" to 2.75" reducer for the 351cw? the build looks great by the way!
 
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