95' Junker Drag Truck

Shambo said:
Be careful on moving parts around from the tranny models. I had a shop put some 47RE parts in a 48RE and messes up the rear gear and housing. So make sure it fits right and is the right size.
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The 47 and 48 are very different. To uprade the 47 to 48 standards you have to swap the whole geartrain. It sux. Don't know why a shop would put 47RE parts in a 48RE. It's like trying to go backwards.
 
yep. there is a lot of good reading in this one. great project and we have several similar tastes
 
This thing is awesome I wanna see it in the 11's. Hopefully the triple disc and full cuts get it there!
 
Big Blue24 said:
Few pictures of my modified fuel supply setup. $15 worth of Checker Auto 3/8" fuel line, $25 at Home Depot for nylon tee, brass fittings, check valve, and hose clamps. $58 for brand new ProComp Black 140 GPH Methanol rated fuel pump with stock 12 psi internal regulator spring.

For around $100 dollars, I built a fuel lift pump/pusher pump system that so far is maintaining 40 psi of fuel pressure. The cool thing about the design is I can run with or without the electrical fuel pump so if I dies, I'm never stranded, just limited to about 450 HP.

Fuel003.jpg

For a pick-up tube I used a 1/2" steel threaded 90 elbow with a brass (1/2" to 3/8" bushing) to (3/8" short nipple) to (1/2" to 3/8" bushing) to 1/2" copper pipe down to the bottom of the tank. The bushings and nipple create a way to clamp the setup to the tank. Basically one bushing is outside the tank and one bushing is inside the tank. The bushings are both threaded onto the 3/8" short nipple and are tightened down to where they lock each other to the tank wall and create an air tight seal.
Fuel004.jpg

Fuel.jpg

The ProComp Black came with the blue anodized fittings so saved a few bucks not having to buy brass 3/8" NPT hose barbs.
Fuel011.jpg

The nylon tee is about 12" from the stock lift pump. The electric fuel pump side has the straight shot through the tee, the factory fuel line feed side makes a 90* turn at the tee.
Fuel005.jpg

This brass check valve allows fuel to be sucked through it when the electric fuel pump is not running. When the electric fuel pump is switched on, it pressures up the tee and feeds the factory lift pump and feeds back down the factory line till it reaches the checkvalve which then closes.
Fuel007.jpg
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big blue, in pic 4 is that the check valve , or is it a regulator?
 
97Dodgeram said:
big blue, in pic 4 is that the check valve , or is it a regulator?
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It's a standard Home Depot brass plumbing check valve.

I set up the truck to run off of both the mechanical lift pump on it's own or using the electric pump to feed the mechanical lift pump when I'm racing.

If there wasn't a check valve, the electric pump would suck from the tank and push fuel back to the tank through the factory feed line. It would still work this way but I'd only get about 1 psi or 2 psi of pressure from the electric lift pump. With the check valve, i can get 12-15 psi from the electric lift pump.


When the electric pump is not running the factory lift pump can suck fuel through the factory feed line and through the check valve. I suppose it can also pull a little fuel through the electric fuel pump as well.

You could just run one feed line for the whole system with the electric pump in-line before the factory lift pump if you select an electric lift pump that is semi free-flowing when turned off so that the mechanical lift pump can suck fuel through it.

You could also run the electric pump in-line and be sure to turn it on before you try to start the truck and always run the electric pump when the truck is running. I drive the truck everywhere since it's street legal so I didn't want to get stranded if my $50 ebay Pro Comp Black pump failed, that's why I chose to run a new feed just for the electric pump and a check valve on the factory line.
 
Yea. Diaphram style pumps can be drawn through in the event of an electric pump failure. Inline EFI gerotor style pumps for the most part can't be drawn through.
 
yea i like the way you plumbed the fuel pump in, i think i will do the same. so that isn't even a holley fuel pump?
 
97Dodgeram said:
yea i like the way you plumbed the fuel pump in, i think i will do the same. so that isn't even a holley fuel pump?
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I had a spare holley blue that I used to carry around in my 99'. I tried it on the Junker and it started leaking after a few minutes of run time. The Blue series are not compatible with diesel fuel and eventually leak. The one I tried to use had less than 2000 street miles on it from my other truck. It then sat with diesel fuel residue inside for about 10 months and in that time the diesel had destroyed the seals. The Holley Black is methanol compatible so I assume it will hold up just fine to Diesel. The Black pumps are almost $200, so I went for the Ebay $50 Holley Black knock-off pump.

So far the pump is doing fine (no leaks), however, I'm going to play around with my lift pump setup again because these 160 pumps seem to respond really, really, really, well to high 50+psi lift pump pressure.
 
Dang, I still got a holley blue waiting to go on. Guess I'll run it till it dies, then go to the black pump.
 
I'm sure you already know but a $120 Walbro 255LPH will hold that 50psi all day long up to around 700HP. I run them on my CR's. I've boost regulated them up to 88psi at around 500HP. I do recommend NOT going with an Aeromotive A1000 regulator. Their Universal is a much better piece IMO. Here's a pic of my 03. The regulator dumps straight in to the CP3. It's also upside down. The return port is on the top and it's the highest point in the system. That's my version of an Air Seperator.

IMG00502-20110430-1521.jpg
 
Big Blue24 said:
I had a spare holley blue that I used to carry around in my 99'. I tried it on the Junker and it started leaking after a few minutes of run time. The Blue series are not compatible with diesel fuel and eventually leak. The one I tried to use had less than 2000 street miles on it from my other truck. It then sat with diesel fuel residue inside for about 10 months and in that time the diesel had destroyed the seals. The Holley Black is methanol compatible so I assume it will hold up just fine to Diesel. The Black pumps are almost $200, so I went for the Ebay $50 Holley Black knock-off pump.

So far the pump is doing fine (no leaks), however, I'm going to play around with my lift pump setup again because these 160 pumps seem to respond really, really, really, well to high 50+psi lift pump pressure.
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how well do you think the pump would do as a single set up on a 12v? how much hp did you think it can supply? i would probably "boost" it with my factory ford e-fuel pump behind it...
 
TRUBBS said:
how well do you think the pump would do as a single set up on a 12v? how much hp did you think it can supply? i would probably "boost" it with my factory ford e-fuel pump behind it...
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Holley pumps are only good for 10-15 psi depending on the spring. That is not enough fuel pressure.

If you fed the Holley with 10-15 psi from another pump, then the Holley would put out 20-30 psi which is barely enough pressure for a p7100 injection pump. Besides that, the bottom plate and shaft seal on the Holley would start to leak right away.


No, I don't think the Holley or any knock-off with the same engineering as the Holley is a good lift pump for a 12 valve cummins motor. The Holley is a good pusher/campaign pump, but ultimately the factory mechanical pump does the higher pressure 25-60 psi work.
 
so looking at yout last picture, the fuel hose you can see with the barb fitting on it is the one from the tank/holley pump then the other line feeds into the filter/pump?
 
The last picture shows the 3/8" fuel line feeding the factory lift pump. The second to last picture shows the tee: 9 o'clock goes to the factory lift pump, 6 o' clock goes to a check valve and then to the factory feed hard line that runs back to the tank, 3 o' clock goes to the Holley Black (Ebay knock-off) electric pump and then back to the factory tank in 3/8" line to the home made 1/2" copper draw straw shown in pictures 1 & 2.
 
Big Blue24 said:
The last picture shows the 3/8" fuel line feeding the factory lift pump. The second to last picture shows the tee: 9 o'clock goes to the factory lift pump, 6 o' clock goes to a check valve and then to the factory feed hard line that runs back to the tank, 3 o' clock goes to the Holley Black (Ebay knock-off) electric pump and then back to the factory tank in 3/8" line to the home made 1/2" copper draw straw shown in pictures 1 & 2.
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would this way work or is it to plain jane to work correct, i was thinking of just runing the supply line from my ford pump directly into the stock cummins lift pump and leaving it at that, just to boost the cummins pump. could/would doing it that simple work?
 
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