95' Junker Drag Truck

[YOUNG GUNS15]

I would like to know about this plate as well.... easy access without removing valvebody? Any advantage to drilling big?

I drilled mine out with the larger drill bit that came in the transgo TFOD 3 (full manual kit) idk how big the hole is, dont really have anything to measure it either! so hammer lockup it is!

 

[Big Blue24]

I would like to know about this plate as well.... easy access without removing valvebody? Any advantage to drilling big?

Yes, easy access without removing the valvebody.

According to Transgo's instructions, the larger the hole, the higher the pressure going to the lock-up clutch in the torque converter. This is a vent hole so I suspect, the larger the hole the faster it develops full lock-up pressure, not that it necessarily creates more pressure.

Ever considered getting your spare cryoed before putting it in? A friend did that to some rearend parts that he kept overloading and breaking. Never had a prob after that.

I've thought about it, but haven't researched the expense to cryo treat it. I thought I read somewhere that Wide Open Performance up in UT has cryo treating equipment.

 

[YOUNG GUNS15]

There was some debate on that. I cant remember when or where just that cryoing it might take the stretch or "give" that the shaft has and break it faster. Not sure where I read that but it was on compd somewhere.

 

[12vriviera]

The debate was about heat treating then croying a part, whether it should be cryoed after heat treatment or not.. The heat treatment will surface harden the part and cryoing will relax the metal "grain" into a uniform structure, whether that wil work for this part or not is still up for discussion

 

[YOUNG GUNS15]

Ive got a stock input I could send off for the right price. But i will save my money, this billet input is fine.

 

[Got Smoke?]

I've thought about it, but haven't researched the expense to cryo treat it. I thought I read somewhere that Wide Open Performance up in UT has cryo treating equipment.

Ive got a stock input I could send off for the right price. But i will save my money, this billet input is fine.

Call Peter @ South Bend they can Cryo it for a decent price I'm certain of it.

 

[Big Blue24]

I got the tranny pulled out today.

The seal for the torque converter looked good, no cuts or tears.

Lots of clutch debris on the filter and in the pan.

Picture of the overdrive section.

Overdrive clutch pack looked great.

You can still read the part number on the clutch friction

The backside of the first friction is discolored (darkened) and has just a little bit of wear.

The steels and the rest of the frictions in the overdrive clutch pack look brand new. If you read back through the original build, this clutch pack was altered with a 48re backing plate which provided enough room to install 6 full-thickness frictions.

I have more pictures of the other clutch packs, just not enough time to upload right now, carnage pictures to follow.

 

[Big Blue24]

2nd gear band, looks to have a little discoloring, but overall it's in great shape.

Just a cheap generic Raybestos flex band that came in a cheap ebay rebuild kit.

 

[b4ctrooper]

Ever considered sanding the steels for some better "bite" out of each pack?

 

[Got Smoke?]

Do you have any pictures of the trans with ONLY the pump removed? I'm curious what it looks like with the direct drive clutch pack sitting in there. Weighing my options and trying to decide how far I wanna go and how much money I want to spend to fix my 2-3 prob you commented on.

Thanks

 

[RJM06590]

You should look into a magnefine inline trans filter. They're cheap and catch a heck of a lot.

 

[12vriviera]

Is that just a regular filter with the bottom cut off or is that a special brand of some sort?

 

[BgBlDodge]

The early 12v's came with an open filter style like that. I forget the years though.

 

[Big Blue24]

The early 12v's came with an open filter style like that. I forget the years though.

Pre 96' (non RE) came with the thin Dacron type filter. What's sad is that's the 2nd or third filter that's been in this tranny, it's had the fluid dumped a few times to say the least and at just $7 for new filter and gasket, no sense reusing a filter if you drop the pan.

 

[Big Blue24]

Picture of the direct clutch pack. This pack was modified in the original build by installing a different backing plate. To get the pack thickness within spec, I used a combination of (3) smooth hi-energy clutches designed for the forward clutch pack and (3) ribbed hi-energy clutches designed for this (direct) clutch pack. Basically, shifting clutches have ribs to allow for quick fluid evacuation, smooth clutches are designed for maximum holding capacity but apparently don't do as well in shifting packs because they lock-up slower due to fluid trapped between the friction and the steel.

Bushing looks to have normal wear, I'm not going to touch it on this rebuild.

The (3) ribbed clutches look great, just normal wear and tear from high torque 2-3 gear shifts.

The (3) smooth clutches have a few small hot spots on them, and there are a few small areas starting to flake-off. Not even close to failure but a little concerning. Let me put it this way, I'm not going to install smooth clutches in the direct clutch pack this go around.

Here is a used ribbed clutch right next to smooth clutch from the same clutch pack, it's clear which one is holding up better. Both clutches have "high - energy" friction material.

 

[Big Blue24]

The forward clutches looked fine, however, the backing plate came out with all the tabs broken off. I bought a used forward clutch pressure plate and installed it as a backing/reaction plate to gain clearance for extra clutches. I have not yet decided if I'm going to buy another used pressure plate or if I'm going to get the stock backing/reaction plate machined to allow for extra clutch clearance. I recall the snap ring being a really, really tight fit and that's probably why the tabs broke.

The selectable thickness wear washer looks great and I plan to reuse it. When I first installed this tranny it had 0.041" input shaft play, when I removed it today with a few thousand hard miles and roughly 130 1/4 mile passes, it measured 0.050" input shaft play.

The aluminum front planetary looks fine, I haven't decided if I'm going to upgrade to steel or stick with aluminum for now. It's difficult to spend $100 on a steel planetary when the aluminum one has held up so well. Has anyone actually stripped the splines or destroyed an aluminum 5 pinion planetary?

 

[Big Blue24]

Here are the pictures of the low/reverse band and drum. If you recall my earlier posts when I first overhauled this transmission, I had trouble during the first few miles and actually lost reverse for a little while. I eventually figured out that the valve body itself had worked it's way loose from the main body of the transmission and had major hydraulic leaks which led to erratic shifting and not enough pressure to fully engage reverse. In the process, the low/reverse band took a ton of abuse, so much in fact that I had to tighten the adjuster all the way down just to get the band to engage because so much clutch material had been worn off. Fast forward to today after a few thousand miles and a bunch of manual 1st gear launches at the drag strip and this what I found:


A metal band :hehe: , all of the friction material is worn off in places.

It looks like the band ground its way into the drum as well, I wonder what the wear spec is for the drum :hehe: , as bad as it sounds, I might reuse this drum since I rarely used manual 1st or reverse with the quick spooling twins.

 

[RJM06590]

Eh it it with some 400 grit LOL

 

[b4ctrooper]

The aluminum front planetary looks fine, I haven't decided if I'm going to upgrade to steel or stick with aluminum for now. It's difficult to spend $100 on a steel planetary when the aluminum one has held up so well. Has anyone actually stripped the splines or destroyed an aluminum 5 pinion planetary?

:bow: What's your secret on that one?! I'm just shocked about that (thought you upgraded that already), and the stock input. Everywhere I read those are the weakest links in the hard parts. Maybe you're just not abusing it correctly? :hehe:

You could check out a local trans shop to see if they're willing to part with a used steel planet. I'm sure you'd get a good deal on one if you also offered your aluminum planet in trade plus cash.

 

[sdime89]

The aluminum front planetary looks fine, I haven't decided if I'm going to upgrade to steel or stick with aluminum for now. It's difficult to spend $100 on a steel planetary when the aluminum one has held up so well. Has anyone actually stripped the splines or destroyed an aluminum 5 pinion planetary?

[/QUOTE]

I have seen a few break in stock trucks but several trucks i have owned that are turned up never broke them idk i guess its a chance you run into im not changin mine unless it breaks