95' Junker Drag Truck

Big Blue24 said:
She's alive!

Yesterday afternoon I finally got the Junker put back together. The new input shaft did the trick, line pressure drop during lock-up is just 10-15 psi and it quickly ramps back to pre lock-up pressure.

Cruising in 3rd, line pressure is running 185 psi. Cruising in overdrive unlocked, line pressure is running 205 psi. WOT in overdrive unlocked, line pressure ramps up to about 215-218 psi. WOT in overdrive with the converter locked 200 psi, and a huge grin on my face!

I rolled into in 3rd locked with the windows down and at 80 MPH, there is a definitely loud screech from the rear tires. Might be the cooler weather, but it feels like it's pulling harder than it ever has in the past.

I double checked at 65 MPH, it can definitely turn over these smooth 285/75/16's aired down to 25 psi. It'll spin so hard I have to lift because it goes sideways as the white smoke rolls out of the fenderwells.... lots of fun.
Click to expand...

get a video of this!

Garrett
 
Man, it's impressive what you've done with that truck. Don't go and get yourself hurt or killed in that dang thing thou. What have you got up your sleeve for going faster in that thing? I guess where you are the racing year last longer.
 
gwhammy said:
Man, it's impressive what you've done with that truck. Don't go and get yourself hurt or killed in that dang thing thou. What have you got up your sleeve for going faster in that thing? I guess where you are the racing year last longer.
Click to expand...
Safety is one of the next upgrades. I do have a fire jacket and helmet for the track. I also have double drive shaft loops in case I lose a u-joint. Once it starts running consistent high 11's, I'm going to spend $350 for a roll cage kit.

As far as more power, I have 5 more upgrades in mind:
1. (Free) Spring controlled wastegate so I can get boost up to around 90 psi.
2. (Free) Full cut DV's. I have them, just don't want to install until the current setup is tapped out.
3. (Free) Increase timing, I'm running just under 25* now, I think it will make more power with 28-30* timing.
4. ($140) Add a third lift pump, probably a Walbro 392 to dual feed the pump at the front port. I hope to be able to get WOT fuel pressure to maintain about 75 psi.
5. ($600) Buy a set of 5x.020" or 5x.022" injectors and install them.


jmd025 said:
Bart Wheels 4125408 - Bart Wheels Super Trucker White Wheels - Summit Racing Equipment

Bart Wheels 413-5408 - Bart Wheels Super Trucker Black Wheels - Summit Racing Equipment

Better price?
Click to expand...

Wow, that's a good price on wheels, much better than the $133 a piece I was looking at before.
 
Big Blue24 said:
Safety is one of the next upgrades. I do have a fire jacket and helmet for the track. I also have double drive shaft loops in case I lose a u-joint. Once it starts running consistent high 11's, I'm going to spend $350 for a roll cage kit.

As far as more power, I have 5 more upgrades in mind:
1. (Free) Spring controlled wastegate so I can get boost up to around 90 psi.
2. (Free) Full cut DV's. I have them, just don't want to install until the current setup is tapped out.
3. (Free) Increase timing, I'm running just under 25* now, I think it will make more power with 28-30* timing.
4. ($140) Add a third lift pump, probably a Walbro 392 to dual feed the pump at the front port. I hope to be able to get WOT fuel pressure to maintain about 75 psi.
5. ($600) Buy a set of 5x.020" or 5x.022" injectors and install them.
6. Hamilton 188/220 camshaft :)



Wow, that's a good price on wheels, much better than the $133 a piece I was looking at before.
Click to expand...

:tree:
 
I'm pretty sure you can get steel cragars for cheap.... I have 15x10s cragar v5s on my jeep that were ~$50 a piece
 
I own (4) 15x10 cheap chrome cragar or bart or ???, I bought them used for less than $20 a piece. They work fine for my Nascar/Roadrace 27x10 slicks, and will work fine with my new 29.5 x 11.5 slicks.

The reason why I'm looking at 14" wide rims is to run my buddy's 29 x 18.50 Mickey Thompson bias ply D.O.T race tires. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MTT-6559/

I don't know that they'll hook any better than my newly acquired Mickey Thompson ET Drag Slicks 29.5 x 11.5 x 15.

Needless to say, one way or another, the Junker Drag Truck is going to have more traction next season than it did this year.
 
I've welded ribbons in alot of wheels when I used to run sand rails. I think marsh racing wheels sells them or have a sheet metal shop roll some. Just a thought if you have the time and equipment.
 
Yeah I was commenting on 2 wheels threads and got the sizes flip flopped! We are looking for 15x14s here, doh!


Yep, Marshs ! Forgot about them.
 
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Update

I went to the track tonight and the rear end didn't last one full pass. I broke the driver's side axle shaft right at the side gear splines.

Axle1.jpg


Axle2.jpg


Axle3.jpg


Axle4.jpg


Axle5.jpg


Axle6.jpg



Axle8.jpg


Axle9.jpg


Axle10.jpg




Any ideas on how to get the rest of the broken shaft out? The carrier is full of welded steel so I can't access the side gear from the inside.

Axle11.jpg



Here's a quick video of the blazing 15 second pass, at least it has a short and sweet burnout at the start.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UZ4nEl6aWig"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UZ4nEl6aWig[/ame]
 
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Big Blue24 said:
Update
Any ideas on how to get the rest of the broken shaft out? The carrier is full of welded steel so I can't access the side gear from the inside.

Axle11.jpg
Click to expand...

Can you remove the carrier from the housing? Would make it much easier. You could drill or weld something onto what's left of the axle and use a slide hammer to pop it out. Might want to do a full inspection of the side gears too while you're in there.
With the carrier out of the rear, you could put the assembly in a press and push it out that way. That would probably be the best way to do it.
 
Side gears are welded...
I am down with 1/4 20 tap, thread and slide hammer it out... Clean and do it again!
 
24vriviera said:
Side gears are welded...
I am down with 1/4 20 tap, thread and slide hammer it out... Clean and do it again!
Click to expand...

How should I go about drilling it? It appears to be fairly hard steel.

I wonder if I heat the whole carrier and then hit the broken end with some of that freeze-off in a can if it wouldn't shrink enough to fall out.

Maybe find someone with an arch welder and have them stick a couple of rods to it and see if if will come out?
 
Cobalt drill bits at the proper speed... The freeze off may work, I wouldn't stick rods to it yet, as you risk splatter on the splined area...
 
You can try and drill and tap the end for use with a dent puller or homemade threaded stud puller to yank it out. Drill slow with decent bit with heavy pressure and use plenty of cutting lube. Drill your hole a size bigger for ease of tapping harder materials. Shop vac chips out and clean real good before trying to pull it out.

Good luck.
 
Here's the carrier up on the bench. I tried to drill through the welded portion because it's pretty soft but as soon as my bit started getting into the side gear, it stopped.

The easiest place to drill would be through the center pin and then use a punch to drift the axle fragment out. My problem is that dang center pin is hard steel, my bit won't even scratch the surface. Looks like I need to fork over the money for a good drill bit. Does anyone have a recommended brand and/or style of bit to drill through the center pin. I'm thinking a 1/4" hole will be large enough to drive out the axle fragment.

003.jpg


Center pin picture from the other side of the carrier:
002.jpg


001.jpg
 
May sound dumb but make something to cover the good side and force feed it grease till it moves its if welded solid enough to hold the grease. Like use a rubber style freeze plug to plug it off drill and tap the plug to put a grease zirk in it. Long shot but maybe cost ya 10 bucks if that.
 
Big Blue24 said:
Here's the carrier up on the bench. I tried to drill through the welded portion because it's pretty soft but as soon as my bit started getting into the side gear, it stopped.

The easiest place to drill would be through the center pin and then use a punch to drift the axle fragment out. My problem is that dang center pin is hard steel, my bit won't even scratch the surface. Looks like I need to fork over the money for a good drill bit. Does anyone have a recommended brand and/or style of bit to drill through the center pin. I'm thinking a 1/4" hole will be large enough to drive out the axle fragment.

Center pin picture from the other side of the carrier:
002.jpg
Click to expand...


Forgot the centerpin was welded in. I guess the press idea is definately out. Messing with serious heat or cold might do it, but also affect reliability in the future. You may be better off picking up another carrier. You could always shop for a full blown spool!
 
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