95' Junker Drag Truck

ya ive been reading that and i also picked up this book off amazon

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Hpbooks-Hp1399-Torqueflite-A-727-Trans/dp/B000PI5QPQ/ref=sr_1_sc_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1327892287&sr=1-3-spell"]Amazon.com: Hpbooks Hp1399 Torqueflite A-727 Trans: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41WaYc8nUfL.@@AMEPARAM@@41WaYc8nUfL[/ame]

its got lots of pictures and part numbers, and its full of good tips and tricks... real good read
 
The Junker is back together and running like a top. I just re-upped the smog and registration so it's good to go for another year.


NHRDA race is coming up March 10th, I plan to be there and hopefully compete in the 11.90 Super Diesel class. If I get knocked out early, I'll be forced to re-enter the burnout contest. I have 5.5K governor springs in lieu of 4k like last year so it might fly apart if I hold it on the floor for 20-30 seconds in the burnout contest.

Does anyone know first-hand how long and how high you can rev a completely stock 12 valve with 60# marine valvesprings? I think I've hit 4600 rpm once or twice for a split second but the tach isn't functional at that rpm range so it's difficult to judge the actual rpm.
 
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I'd say you'll be floating the valves up that high. Also pretty hard on the rotating assem. But I've held 5200 for about 5 secs before and no new windows. You could hear the 60# springs allowing some float around 4500.
 
The Junker is back together and running like a top. I just re-upped the smog and registration so it's good to go for another year.


NHRDA race is coming up March 10th, I plan to be there and hopefully compete in the 11.90 Super Diesel class. If I get knocked out early, I'll be forced to re-enter the burnout contest. I have 5.5K governor springs in lieu of 4k like last year so it might fly apart if I hold it on the floor for 20-30 seconds in the burnout contest.

Does anyone know first-hand how long and how high you can rev a completely stock 12 valve with 60# marine valvesprings? I think I've hit 4600 rpm once or twice for a split second but the tach isn't functional at that rpm range so it's difficult to judge the actual rpm.

Guy who goes by WAYNES WORLD has some interesting pictures. Had 60lbs and the truck wouldn't go into OD in the 1/4 just once. Now he has nice outlines of his exhaust on his pistons. Hit 4500 rpms. He got luck with 1 bent push rod.

Posted via Velocity LG ALLY
 
If you can, share some of those tips and tricks!bI'd like some input

haven't made it to the chapter about building your trans for preformance/dragracing yet (been to busy reading on here) but once i get started i plan on starting a build thread of my own and sharing all my secrets..
 
I have heard from a truck puller about pulling the valve threw the retainer. Might be cheaper to hold the rpms down till you can get good retainers and keepers.
 
This week, I decided to work on the front end suspension downward travel to help increase the weight transfer at launch and get this truck to hook up. Before I started, I measured the static height of the front end in the middle of the fender, then jacked up the front end till the tires were just barely off the ground and remeasured. This truck in stock form had 4" of front end suspension travel.

I then started removing parts to see what was limiting full droop. The first thing I noticed was the front shock looked tight. Sure enough, I loosened it and picked up .25" of travel.

The next component to bottom out was the upper ball joint's threaded stud. The upper ball joint's stud was hitting on the backside of the bump stop. After a little bit of cutting, I removed the bump stop.

FrontTravel4.jpg


FrontTravel3.jpg


Next, I noticed that the upper control arm was binding on the spring pocket right where I did a little grinding to remove the rust and provide a little bit of clearance. By playing with the alignment adjustment for the upper control arm, I was able pivot the upper control arm rearward a little to gain more downward travel. Moving the arm rearward increases caster on the alignment, which actually adds stability at high speed.... WIN-WIN!! Caster acts much the same way as rake on on a motorcycle. More rake (think stretched out cruiser) more stability and easier it is for the vehicle to track in a straight line.
In the picture below, the upper control arm was adjusted so the upper ball joint's general location moved slightly rearward.
FrontTravel2.jpg


While I was in there, I decided to install some half ton coil springs, Moog part #7390. Well the springs are slightly longer than the stock springs, and just 0.006" smaller wire diameter so I actually ended up with the same ride height. So for future reference, go with even lighter duty that the Moog 7390 0.830" diameter springs if you're looking to lower your vehicle.
FrontTravel13.jpg


FrontTravel14.jpg


FrontTravel18.jpg


FrontTravel1.jpg



Next I needed to either buy a longer shock, or extend the shock mount. In keeping with the "budget" theme, I decided to extend the shock mount with a few pieces of 1/8" thick steel scrap I had in the corner of my garage and an old suspension bolt from my bolt bucket.

FrontTravel6.jpg


FrontTravel5.jpg


FrontTravel7.jpg



Finally some pictures of ride height vs full droop:

FrontTravel12.jpg


FrontTravel9.jpg


FrontTravel10.jpg


FrontTravel8.jpg



Now the truck has exactly 6" of front suspension travel at the stock ride height. Hopefully the new slightly longer springs will store just a bit more energy and combined with the extra 2" of front end travel, help this truck hook up.
 
Since it is at static ride height you actually have 6" of droop, not travel, since you didn't take into acount bump travel.

Garrett

Probably getting paid at work to post this from my D1
 
Since it is at static ride height you actually have 6" of droop, not travel, since you didn't take into acount bump travel.

Garrett

Probably getting paid at work to post this from my D1



Alright Mr. Technical, you win it has 6" of droop and ???" of travel....

By the way, since this is an on-road straight line race truck, all you or I should really care about is droop, right...

:hehe:
 
Yes, just bored and being technical at work.

If you ran a slightly lighter spring it would sit lower in the front, would that help by giving it more droop for weight transfer?

Garrett

Probably getting paid at work to post this from my D1
 
Does that shock extension have a 'flat' side that keeps it in position relative to the control arm?

It looks like it's not going to love life for too many miles
 
Try gasser 3/4 ton springs as well, same diameter, and depending on bed length/cab type etc, there are a few different options, thats what I have in the front of my car..
 
Try gasser 3/4 ton springs as well, same diameter, and depending on bed length/cab type etc, there are a few different options, thats what I have in the front of my car..
Do the gasser springs make it ride better?
 
They support the weight of the swap in my car, thats all I know, and waaaayy lighter than the one ton diesel springs that came with the truck...
 
The Moog 7390's I installed are for a Ram 2500 V8 or 1500 V8 Extended Cab 155" 6400 GVW. I was afraid the 1500 V6 springs would be too small for the heavy diesel. Lesson learned, if I were to spend $80 on another set of springs, I would definitely go with a lighter duty spring such as the Moog CC792 for Ram 1500 Standard Cab 135" 6400 GVW, or even lighter duty RAYBESTOS Part # 5871121 Inside Diameter=4.87" Wire Diameter=.781" Free Height=13.44" Driver Side/13.16" Pass.



By the way, the track is open tonight!!!! Weather looks good, and the Junker is ready to try out the new springs!!!
 
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