95' Junker Drag Truck

Was that a 32 spline or 35 spline axle? I've seen guys weld a long piece of solid stock to them then weld a piece across to form a T and use a crow bar to help get them out.
 
fill the clean side cavity with grease. use good axle as slide hammer and cram grease through diff and out other axle hole.... should cost about 6 bucks.

and that axle material is actually pretty soft and porous on the inside. the outside is hardened.
go to local tool supply and buy a cobalt drill bit. high speed steel sucks. use cutting oil and dont turn it faster than about 250 rpm.
 
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I was able to remove the broken off axle stub. I ended up removing the center pin from the carrier with the persuasion of a mini sledge and then beat the broken axle pieces out from the back side.

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I also picked up a used 32 spline stock axle locally. I decided to paint it so I can monitor twist and see if I truly am overpowering the axles or if the broken axle was a fluke.

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Big Blue24 said:
I got all of the mandrel bent tubing from Columbia River Mandrel Bending... mandrel-bends.com, they have a "builder's kit" option that gives a little discount if you buy a set of bends: 180's, 90's, and 45's.

The tight radius is mostly due to the fact that I'm using 3" for the cold pipe instead of 3.5" or 4" like most people.

The inside diameter of the HT4B outlet is 3" so I didn't see a point in going larger on the cold pipe, plus the fact that 3" is quite a bit cheaper.

I checked and it is possible to come straight out of the HT4B with a 90 and straight into the 180, however, this puts the 180 pretty close to the air filter (I only run a filter on the street, but I do want my filter to fit with ease since it gets installed and removed so frequently) and I'm running a large 6" inlet air filter so I decided to come out of the HT4B with a 45* and then a 90* over to the 180*.

The silicone parts are ordered so I should have a few pictures posted next weekend.
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What radius is that 180 bend?
 
Columbia River is great, been dealing with them for many years.
Quality is good, price is great.
 
If you get on Columbia River's B-stock mailing list you can pick stuff up cheap!!!
 
2141pete said:
If you get on Columbia River's B-stock mailing list you can pick stuff up cheap!!!
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I just signed up for that.


Big Blue24 said:
Easier/non-toxic to weld. I believe paint adheres better to raw steel vs aluminized, and it's a buck cheaper to boot!
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I went with raw, got a 180, 90, and silicone couplings for about 50 bucks. You can't beat that for a cold pipe.
 
any updates? back together now? i just spent the last 6 hours getting up to speed on the build as i am in the market for a 2wd of my own to put all my parts on... im also going to take a swing at building my own auto trans! thanks for the inspiration!
 
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