Big Blue24
Comp Diesel Sponsor
- Joined
- Jan 5, 2008
- Messages
- 6,320
I finally got the motor back into the Junker Drag Truck.
I installed it with the cylinder head removed to provide extra clearance for my tight working space "side entrance" motor hoist position.
Finally resting on the motor mounts:
Next I hit the deck of the block with a light coating of Copper Spray-a-Gasket by Permatex. It applies similar to a coat of paint and helps fill some of the smaller voids and low spots, it supposedly also helps with heat transfer. I started using it years ago on exhaust flanges and turbo gaskets and it seems to actively reduce the amount of exhaust leaks.
In keeping with the Junker Theme, I tried to save a few $$ and run this Victor Reinz .010" oversize head gasket. The whole top-end gasket kit was less than the cost of a plain Cummins head gasket. We'll see if it holds up????
Then using two long headbolts as guides threaded through the alignment dowels on the block, the head was lowered into place.
Then the pushrods and rockers were installed so all (26) headbolts could be torqued-down. Utilizing stock used head bolts that were pre-lubed with motor oil, I followed the factory bolt sequence starting with the center two bolts between cylinder 3 & 4 and worked outward repeating the 26 bolt torque sequence in torque steps of 50, 75, 90, 100, 110, 115, 120, 125, and finally 130 ft-lbs. At 130, (4) of the shortest exhaust side bolts started to get soft and would not quite reach 130. These bolts were exchanged one at a time for (4) different used head bolts which eventually did reach 130 ft lbs. I then stepped up to 135 ft lbs on all (26) bolts and several turned past 90* indicating I was at maximum clamp load for the fasteners. After letting the bolts sit for an hour, I went back and hit all (26) bolts with 138 ft lbs.
***It should be noted that previously with high mileage original bolts that were not removed nor lubed, I was able to get 145-150 ft lbs before the bolts went soft/started moving 90* on a single torque step. I attribute the higher torque before to the added friction of dry bolts. Freshly lubed bolts do not seem to require as much torque as old dry bolts to achieve maximum clamp load.
With a new gasket, the gasket continues to settle as it experiences heat cycles. This is why it's important to re-check and re-torque new gaskets after some run time. Obviously as the gasket settles, the clamp load provided by the bolts, studs, or whatever you use will decrease and why it's important to regularly check bolt torque and re-apply as required.
I installed it with the cylinder head removed to provide extra clearance for my tight working space "side entrance" motor hoist position.
Finally resting on the motor mounts:
Next I hit the deck of the block with a light coating of Copper Spray-a-Gasket by Permatex. It applies similar to a coat of paint and helps fill some of the smaller voids and low spots, it supposedly also helps with heat transfer. I started using it years ago on exhaust flanges and turbo gaskets and it seems to actively reduce the amount of exhaust leaks.
In keeping with the Junker Theme, I tried to save a few $$ and run this Victor Reinz .010" oversize head gasket. The whole top-end gasket kit was less than the cost of a plain Cummins head gasket. We'll see if it holds up????
Then using two long headbolts as guides threaded through the alignment dowels on the block, the head was lowered into place.
Then the pushrods and rockers were installed so all (26) headbolts could be torqued-down. Utilizing stock used head bolts that were pre-lubed with motor oil, I followed the factory bolt sequence starting with the center two bolts between cylinder 3 & 4 and worked outward repeating the 26 bolt torque sequence in torque steps of 50, 75, 90, 100, 110, 115, 120, 125, and finally 130 ft-lbs. At 130, (4) of the shortest exhaust side bolts started to get soft and would not quite reach 130. These bolts were exchanged one at a time for (4) different used head bolts which eventually did reach 130 ft lbs. I then stepped up to 135 ft lbs on all (26) bolts and several turned past 90* indicating I was at maximum clamp load for the fasteners. After letting the bolts sit for an hour, I went back and hit all (26) bolts with 138 ft lbs.
***It should be noted that previously with high mileage original bolts that were not removed nor lubed, I was able to get 145-150 ft lbs before the bolts went soft/started moving 90* on a single torque step. I attribute the higher torque before to the added friction of dry bolts. Freshly lubed bolts do not seem to require as much torque as old dry bolts to achieve maximum clamp load.
With a new gasket, the gasket continues to settle as it experiences heat cycles. This is why it's important to re-check and re-torque new gaskets after some run time. Obviously as the gasket settles, the clamp load provided by the bolts, studs, or whatever you use will decrease and why it's important to regularly check bolt torque and re-apply as required.
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