95' Junker Drag Truck

The motor is fine, luckily I went back with a .020" oversized headgasket this time around to gain valve/piston clearance.

It appears that something came apart in the governor this time and it wasn't a fuel-related issue.

I will say this, it sure sounded mean with 30+ degrees timing and 5500 ish RPM. It pegged the tachometer around to the zero peg so I really don't know how high it revved....

Sorry about your luck man. It sucks to drive that far and have stuff like that happen. It was a crazy day and I didn't make it back to chat anymore before you guys left.

Also the NADP guys were really greatful for you helping them out. Pretty stand up of you to let someone borrow parts off your truck to get them back on the track.
 
Well I have finally read all 97 pages (it's taken me over three weeks) but I'm glad to say my 94 junker style project is starting out the same way. I hope to see yours run in Texas Oct 3rd. I'm assuming pdd will be there?
 

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Update: New Pump

After having a run-away in Montana, I decided to run my daily driver/tow truck in the 11.90 index even though it wasn't fast enough to run the number, for the sole purpose of qualifying points-wise for the NHRDA World Finals in Texas. Well I'm happy to report that I received the invite and we are headed to Texas the first week of October for the NHRDA World Finals!!!

Now for my pump, it turns out the #2 plunger hung up and caused the run-away, I was extremely lucky that the key shut it off because normally the shutdown solenoid does not have enough spring tension to pull back a stuck rack.

Seth Farrell came through in record time and tore down the whole pump for a complete rebuild. It wasn't cheap as far as Junker cheap, but it was still very reasonable compared to other pump shops out there. It turns out the #2 plunger was the problem however it looks like it was old damage from the pumps prior life before I bought it used so just one of those unlucky things that can happen when buying used. That said, it was good that this failure happened because the #5 cam lobe and tappet were on their way out although they had not yet showed external signs of imminent failure.

So a used 215 cam, used roller tappet assembly, and used/re-lapped plunger/barrel was installed to replace #2. Seth also installed a new set of Power Driven Full Cut Delivery Valves to help coax a little more fuel out of the pump in addition to raising the lift to port closure to take advantage of the quickest part of the stock 215 cam.

All said and done, my pump now carries a full 1 year warranty from Farrell Diesel Service and flows an impressive 650 cc's of fuel.


The pump came back in record time and it's installed and luckily the engine did not get hurt during its 4 to 5 seconds of 5500+ RPM (pegged tach on backside of zero) run-away, on my test drive tonight it purrs like a kitten. The DPC Quad Disk converter locks up firm and the higher stall makes spool-up almost too easy!!!!

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There is a drag race event this coming Saturday in St George so I will run the Junker there to test and tune in preparation for the NHRDA World Finals in Ennis, TX. I will post up time results after the event, and I can't wait to see what it will do on an all-out pass with the extra fueling!!!

Another key addition to the Junker Drag Truck is I installed one of our newest AFC LIVE stage 2 boxes to allow me to fine tune the fueling to be able to run right on the 11.90 index.

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Here is a picture of the AFC LIVE Race box we installed in Todd's Project Leftovers: Frankenstein Cummins, it includes full fueling control as well as in-cab wastegate control. There's a good chance we will build another one for the Junker so I can play with the wastegate tuning as well.

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Good to hear you are back up and running Will. We stuck #1 one weekend and then stuck #2 and #3 the next weekend. Finally wised up and drained and flushed my entire fuel system. Also, I picked up some Stanadyne lube to add to the fuel. I'm pretty sure someone dumped something in the fuel because I looked in our ice water tank and someone had thrown a Wal-mart bag in there.

The truck will never leave our site again.
 
Impressive for stock-ish pump. For some reason I thought you had a cam in the pump already?! Guess not!
 
I've read every page of this build and there is some great information in here! I can see why the triple turbo makes all the power now on frankenstein! Wish it was updated more often!
 
Update: New Slicks
Just prior to the NHRDA World Finals in Texas the first week of October, I prepped a new set of steel 15" x 12" 8-lug wheels for the new slicks. In the past, I've had trouble with the slicks turning on the wheels and with the new larger slicks, I decided to drill the rims and add screws.
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I picked up a rim drilling jig and screws from Jegs since they had the best price almost a year ago when I picked up the parts.

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The screw kit came with a drill bit, it's pretty straight forward, you drill holes where the corner of the tire bead resides so the screw hits in the middle of the bead, otherwise they will cause leaks.

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The new 33"x14.50 Good Year Slicks were picked up new but heavily discounted from a local Top Alcohol Dragster Team, I had no idea if they'd hook well on my truck, but the price was right... $150 for the pair.

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On the truck, they definitely don't tuck, but on a Junker Truck, looks are the last consideration when new upgrades are added. Besides, all the cool kids now have "stance" and purposely stick their wheels/tires out from the fender well area.

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One downside of the taller slicks is the suspension geometry is now totally wrong so the rearend will have to be lowered more. There wasn't time to get the rear lowered prior to the Texas race so for now it's still too high in the rear.

Update: Full manual Valvebody
With the upcoming turbo changes, I needed a simpler way to change the shift points, so I ditched the automatic valvebody/mechanical governor setup and went to a full manual valvebody with a B&M Megashifter.

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In Texas, I was eligible to run the 11.90 Super Diesel Index Class. This meant I had to dial back the fueling to make the truck slower and more consistent for the class. Instead of going the traditional fuel plate rack stop route, I dialed in my AFC LIVE Tuner to 20 psi, which according to the bench test sheet put the pump right at 400 cc's of fuel. I purposely deep staged during qualifying to try to dial-in the power to run 11.90 with a poor 60' from the deep stage but faster reaction time.

The first qualifying run was unimpressive as I forgot that I had to shift and hung 1st gear against the governor for a second or so. Despite the shifting error and terrible launch due to the taller slicks truck still ran a 12.1 @ 121mph. The trap speed shows the power potential of the new Hamilton Head and Hot Rod Farrell Diesel 887 (215) Pump.

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The very next pass was qualifying for the 10.90 index class, so I flipped the full power mode switch on the AFC LIVE tuner just prior to staging. This allows full boost to the AFC/Injection pump and enables 650 cc's of fueling. My previous best 10.90 @ 126mph was with the old 500 cc 160 pump so I was expecting to run well under the index just to see what the new setup was capable of.

The 15 psi launch was too much for the not-yet-tuned suspension/big slick setup and the truck bounced, on the second or third bounce about 10' off the line, the stock output shaft broke and I was done racing..... big drive/tow from Utah to Texas to attempt 2 passes.

A billet output shaft has been sourced and is ready to install, the new shaft does not have provisions for the mechanical governor or speedo gear so it's a good thing I upgraded to the full manual valvebody.

In order to safely tow my truck the 20+ hours back from Texas to Utah without park or an e-brake, I had to rig up some 2x4 blocks as screwed down wheel chocks keep the truck locked down on the long tow. Necessity is the mother of invention.

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Who's output were you able to source? We searched and searched a year or so ago without any luck. Rusty TCS Arizona was going to make one as you said no gov. gear but was months out on them so we went with suncoast billet 2wd output conversion.
 
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It has to have been shock load failure if the shaft is rated for 2700 ft lbs and my truck makes a measly 1600 ft lbs.

I ran some numbers and it looks like this TCS Canada 300 maraging steel shaft measures 1.034" in diameter with a 0.254" diameter bore in the center. This leaves 0.789 square inches of material to handle the work load.

Comparing that to a TCS Arizona 300m shaft, it measures the same 1.034" diameter but has a smaller 0.192" diameter bore in the center. This leaves 0.811 square inches of material or 2.8% more material.

I'm going to try a TCS Arizona shaft this time around, hopefully it performs as expected.

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I ran Rusty's shafts for years, but as of late final machining seems to have lost a touch of quality control. I had to file burrs off the grooves for the seals to fit properly. I also had two separate sub 500 hp trucks snap his inputs recently. Both had been in the trucks about a year, so I'm not sure if it was a bad batch or what. We repaired the first one (handy part about a 2 piece shaft) and I know the kid hasn't been driving the truck any nicer. The other we switched to a TCS Canada shaft, Paul has been treating me very well up there. Plus they carry most of what I need to build the 68RFEs too. Save that hub, Paul will likely be more than obliged to press an Aermet shaft into your hub if it checks out good.
 
Who's output were you able to source? We searched and searched a year or so ago without any luck. Rusty TCS Arizona was going to make one as you said no gov. gear but was months out on them so we went with suncoast billet 2wd output conversion.

Also this ^^^ I know I had talked to Rusty a few years ago too, but hadn't heard anything about it.
 
Also this ^^^ I know I had talked to Rusty a few years ago too, but hadn't heard anything about it.

Yes, it was a stock output shaft that broke.

Rusty had a billet 2wd output in-stock, said he made them for someone who was racing their 2wd 48re a while back and hasn't sold one in several months till I called. So I lose the speedo and governor but since I'm running a full manual VB, the governor shaft hole is a weak point that I no longer need...
 
I swapped to a dhd tcase and planned on opening up the boss for the speedo sensor and epoxying the speedo gear to the shaft.



4 yrs later I still have a new speedo gear in the glove box and no speedo.
 
Update: Billet Output Shaft & New Transmission Fluid

The stock output shaft on the 47rh transmission has lived through quite a bit of abuse, but it was definitely on borrowed time upon close inspection:

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Clean break at the speedo spur/splined area.

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Looking closer at the splined portion where the yoke for the driveshaft rides, it's clear that this shaft had been pushed beyond it's limit a few times....

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This one crack is almost 6" long and runs a spiral pattern around the whole shaft:
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All of the cracks start at the stress-riser points on the stock splines:
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Here is the new billet output shaft. I had to tear down the whole overdrive assembly to replace it but it's in, and the repair is complete. Going to a billet output shaft sacrifices the speedo spur/gear and the mechanical governor. I had recently switched to a full manual valvebody so the loss of the governor wasn't a big deal, but losing the speedometer makes it more difficult to drive this truck on the street.... oh well, it's a full blown race truck now anyway...

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I drained the old fluid from the pan while I had the tail/OD housing removed from the tranny, so I refilled the Junker with our new transmission fluid: Power Torque ATF, it took about 10 quarts to get it full. The Power Torque ATF is thinner than the hydraulic fluid I was running before so it did raise the stall speed on the converter a little.

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Now that the truck is fixed, we plan to get it on our dyno first to see how much power it makes with the current compound turbo setup, and then it will become the shop test mule on the dyno for the next few months till race season this spring. We've got a few different turbo setups to test and it's nice to have dedicated test mule with a good head and injection pump to really see the limits of all these new turbos that are hitting the market....
 
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For a free speedo, I downloaded a free GPS speedometer to my cell phone and set it on the dash. There's tons of them available. Big analog digital numbers. Good for seeing how much a speedo is off for tire height changes too.
Sweet build too.
 
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