Ahale's 94 Build thread

I just pulled apart my 47rh i built last winter to look it over and swap in a billet output. The only issue i had was i had swapped in a 6 pinion planet in the rear and didn't change out the sun gear for it. Then my stock sun shell is stressed a lot so i would have to update to the 48re style. Every clutch count was increased, full manual valve body, billet input and Goerend convertor. Now with my current build in the works i plan on sending alot more though it . Its not that hard to do by yourself just take your time and double check and double check. If you have any questions feel free to send me a message. I even still have it in parts on the bench to help with anything.
 
scat said:
I just pulled apart my 47rh i built last winter to look it over and swap in a billet output. The only issue i had was i had swapped in a 6 pinion planet in the rear and didn't change out the sun gear for it. Then my stock sun shell is stressed a lot so i would have to update to the 48re style. Every clutch count was increased, full manual valve body, billet input and Goerend convertor. Now with my current build in the works i plan on sending alot more though it . Its not that hard to do by yourself just take your time and double check and double check. If you have any questions feel free to send me a message. I even still have it in parts on the bench to help with anything.
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thanks,

next time it needs a rebuild, I'm sure it will be within 10K miles, I'll be asking many questions.
 
well, guess I've nailed it down to a converter problem.

swapped valve bodies just now. I can now see a dip in line pressure when I command lockup with my manual switch. the pressure drops and comes back up.

still no lockup, shifts on the new VB are much more firm, yet when I flick the switch in drive, and come to a stop, the trans will downshift, and come down to an idle like there is no LU at all.

so now the builder of the trans (2.5 hrs away from me) has agreed to swap the converter out. but that just blows seeing its on my dime to pull it, and I wont have a truck for at least a week.

man do transmissions just hate me.... I never even removed this converter when I got the trans brand new from the trans shop... in fear that I may rip a seal...god forbid
 
You never get the nice easy fix with your trans... If it makes you feel any better my DD started slipping today for some unknown reason :soap: gotta wait till the weekend to pull it
 
ChuMaDD said:
You never get the nice easy fix with your trans... If it makes you feel any better my DD started slipping today for some unknown reason :soap: gotta wait till the weekend to pull it
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I don't feel good when anyone has trans issues lol

pulling my trans now, trans builder offered to swap the converter out with a new one.
 
SUCCESS!

new converter did the trick, no idea in hell why a brand new converter would have no lockup....but, she is doing all she should now.

just as a kick in the nuts, this valvebody does not have 2ndgear manual lockup...even when I asked for it to be modified for it. Guess I will be doing it myself in the near future.
 
this converter locks with much less excitement than my last, probably not the worst thing in when considering intermediate/output/np241 lifespan. haven't had the opportunity to nail a 3-4 locked shift yet.

once I let the converter clutch break in a bit I'll get a full bore video.

I need a real shifter to have some more fun...
 
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no, I just like to manually shift 2-3 better than letting the VB shift it, seems I can shift that particular shift better than the trans can (for this s400 that is)

1-2 shifts at about 2300 rpm in D (WOT)
2-3 shifts at about 2000, fine when uunlocked, but shifing it locked the turbo tends to fall on its face.... So I shift it manually on the colum
 
time to play lift pump. Silly FASS finally quit and I'm back to stock lift pump.

planning to try and adapt this...
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its a Procon balanced vane pump ~230GPH, capable of 250psi at 1750 rpm

I'm going to try and run it off either the crank, or the vac pump (believe that runs 1/2 speed correct?)

Im going to need to run it to target max PSI at ~3000 rpm shooting for 80-100 psi after a regulator

going to use some of these, with the "L series" belt
McMaster-Carr
 
yeah i should have thought before I added that, cam/IP is half speed.

cheapest solution would be to run off the crank, and under drive.

I'm just at a total loss as to how to begin to figure out what this pump can do in the real world. 250 psi/230 GPH @1750rpm is not much help when I don't know what kind of restriction there will after the pump. fluid dynamics dictates pressure is a measurement of restriction.... but how much.... IDK

next week, I'll chuck the somebish in the lathe, spin it at some different RPM's and observe the pressure/flow VS rpm, as well as I can with 5 gallon buckets and some #2 LOL its obviously a better Idea to get some kind of idea of what its going to do before I bolt it to the truck all Gung-ho
 
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Be sure you have the fuel inlet for that pump Above it when you go to testing, don't wan to kill your fancy new pump! Also check the maximum rpm it's rated for. My guess is its not rated anywhere close to 4k rpm. Balanced vane pumps are typically found on hydraulic systems rated for upwards of 3000psi. You've got a little oddball there.
 
YOUNG GUNS15 said:
Be sure you have the fuel inlet for that pump Above it when you go to testing, don't wan to kill your fancy new pump! Also check the maximum rpm it's rated for. My guess is its not rated anywhere close to 4k rpm. Balanced vane pumps are typically found on hydraulic systems rated for upwards of 3000psi. You've got a little oddball there.
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its designed for water, I've heard of them being used to circulate water in swimming pools. It may not be balanced vane... I need to open it up to take a look.

any idea if it will self prime once it has fuel to it? I will gravity feel fuel to it before i turn it, im sure it would not take much to screw it up.
 
a project I was playing with tonight...

going to weld the plate to the covers, after counter boring the bolts in. the bolts are from the cover brace that Weston sent me. I've noticed alot of movement on the bolts, visible by side to side wear on the pedestal brace itself, i think a tight counterbore would work well to keep the bolts snug.

and... it will look sort of like the keating machine 1 piece cover ... hopefully I'll be able to get it on/off... if not, its going to be a fancy looking paperweight.:lolly:

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ahale2772 said:
its designed for water, I've heard of them being used to circulate water in swimming pools. It may not be balanced vane... I need to open it up to take a look.

any idea if it will self prime once it has fuel to it? I will gravity feel fuel to it before i turn it, im sure it would not take much to screw it up.
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If its designed for water the diesel might eat the seals, just depends.
 
I don't believe they design it for any fluid in specific, all I know (when i called them) was the stainless pumps were designed for the broadest range of fluids....when I said fuel she told me it may, then clammed up because "our pumps are never meant for automotive applications"

either way, its an experiment, I've got no more of an idea than you about how it will work.
 
rainy day sitting in the shop on the mill.

counter bored the holes (almost an interference fit), put a rough polish on it.

not sure If I am going to weld it to the covers or not... i think I'll just leave it like it is for a while

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