Ahale's 94 Build thread

Oops, my bad on that. It should lockup no problem with that manual switch. Are you sure there's 12v going to the middle prong and that the ground is solid?
 
Im guessing so if the OD is working, Ill try a full manual lock up switch tomorrow.
 
issue #1
I now have a lockup switch wired directly to the transmission. (orange/black wire) still no lock up... I assume it must be a faulty lock up solenoid?

issue #2
... driving along today, I suddenly lost all gears. I was able to put the truck in N and wait a bit, then I had gears again. limped it home, pulled the pan, adjusted the bands, replaced the filter. everything is OK so far. there was a good amount of clutch material in the pan, enough to tint the fluid a shade darker than red.

issue #3
this trans has a 47RE filter on it. plastic/metal style with only two bolts. not the open 3 bolt style a 47RH should have. Is this due to the fact that the filter extension for the ATS deep pan adapts a 47RH to the RE style filter?

I wonder if the transmission builder threw RE parts into this transmission. the trans came out of a 98 dodge, that (i was told) had a 47RH swapped into it to replace a NV4500. they told me an RH was used so the truck would not need a RE harness, and apparently it had manual switches to control lockup and OD.... gut feeling tells me this transmission builder thought the trans was an RE and now I have some kind of RE/RH mutt. UGH

issue #4
im sick of playing transmission games.
 
ahale2772 said:
issue #1
I now have a lockup switch wired directly to the transmission. (orange/black wire) still no lock up... I assume it must be a faulty lock up solenoid?

issue #2
... driving along today, I suddenly lost all gears. I was able to put the truck in N and wait a bit, then I had gears again. limped it home, pulled the pan, adjusted the bands, replaced the filter. everything is OK so far. there was a good amount of clutch material in the pan, enough to tint the fluid a shade darker than red.

issue #3
this trans has a 47RE filter on it. plastic/metal style with only two bolts. not the open 3 bolt style a 47RH should have. Is this due to the fact that the filter extension for the ATS deep pan adapts a 47RH to the RE style filter?

I wonder if the transmission builder threw RE parts into this transmission. the trans came out of a 98 dodge, that (i was told) had a 47RH swapped into it to replace a NV4500. they told me an RH was used so the truck would not need a RE harness, and apparently it had manual switches to control lockup and OD.... gut feeling tells me this transmission builder thought the trans was an RE and now I have some kind of RE/RH mutt. UGH

issue #4
im sick of playing transmission games.
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Really sorry for you luck with this man. It always sucks when you don't know 100% what you are trading/buying from someone else and the skills/knowledge of what they did as well
 
ChuMaDD said:
Really sorry for you luck with this man. It always sucks when you don't know 100% what you are trading/buying from someone else and the skills/knowledge of what they did as well
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true, thanks

it was build by a reputable shop in CT, I trust what is in it, but clearly something is off.

worst comes to worst, I but a suncoast master rebuild, and build it my self.

the price of the kit, and my labor is worth the piece of mind. needs to come apart for better levers anyways...
 
Have you tried swapping solenoids with a known good one yet or testing it at all? meant to add that to my original post
 
I have my old 47rh sitting in the shop, i can swap the solenoid out of it tomorrow.

edit
never mind... it has no valve body in it.
 
I know a big difference with the re and RH valve body is the mid plate. I bought an ats rh that turned out to be a re and I had a weak first gear and an extremely firm reverse. I took apart my stock one and the ats and sure enough I had to do some swapping around.
 
are the electrical connections on the outside of the trans completely different between RE and RH?

I guess I just need to start by identifying exactly what the innerds of this thing are.

normal driving, the trans shifts fine, manually shifting its nice and firm, I have not even been over 20 psi of boost yet with this auto, to say I have been nice to it is an understatement.

I would assume that an RE would not even function in a truck with RH wiring?
 
Re has more pins on it. I don't know exactly but if I were to guess six pin sticks out. If it were a Franken VB you'd know it.
 
ahale2772 said:
are the electrical connections on the outside of the trans completely different between RE and RH?

I guess I just need to start by identifying exactly what the innerds of this thing are.

normal driving, the trans shifts fine, manually shifting its nice and firm, I have not even been over 20 psi of boost yet with this auto, to say I have been nice to it is an understatement.

I would assume that an RE would not even function in a truck with RH wiring?
Click to expand...

This may help...

2364747910_b0d47b55c6_z.jpg


I believe RH's have a connector with only 2 maybe 3 wires. The RE's have the 8 wire connector

Edit: A RE could work with RH wiring but it would have some items not working correctly or having the signal/voltage being pulled from a different source. But doing this would be extremely noticeable
 
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ChuMaDD said:
This may help...

2364747910_b0d47b55c6_z.jpg


I believe RH's have a connector with only 2 maybe 3 wires. The RE's have the 8 wire connector

Edit: A RE could work with RH wiring but it would have some items not working correctly or having the signal/voltage being pulled from a different source. But doing this would be extremely noticeable
Click to expand...

^thanks, mine has 2 three pin connectors, RH it is

hooked up a line pressure gauge today reading off the acc piston port.. 60ish psi at idle, 100 psi max (no lockup, so still not a good way to find a max reading). Pulled the pan, checked the lockup wiring.

with the key on, flipping the lockup switch i can hear the solenoid engage. It does not return... I assume fluid pressure pushes it back or something.

so I'm 100% at a standstill as to what could be preventing lockup.

next, I adjusted the line pressure allen screw, rotated it 5 full 360 degree turns CCW. this brought line pressure to about 110 psi idle, 160 ish max. (once again, still no lockup) trans feels a TON more firm. I would place a bet the low line pressure was the reason for so much clutch material in my pan.


the search continues for my nonexistent lockup:bang
 
If you'd like, you can try out my vb. the trans is on a bench and will remain there for some time. I haven't set line pressures though so don't bend your band strut. Shoot me a text if you wanna figure something out, 978548800nine
 
ahale2772 said:
are the electrical connections on the outside of the trans completely different between RE and RH?

I guess I just need to start by identifying exactly what the innerds of this thing are.

normal driving, the trans shifts fine, manually shifting its nice and firm, I have not even been over 20 psi of boost yet with this auto, to say I have been nice to it is an understatement.

I would assume that an RE would not even function in a truck with RH wiring?
Click to expand...

there is the wiring for the reverse light/neutral safety switch.... you could be tapping into that. The rh is stupid simple if you have od then you have power, only possibility is a bad ground or solenoid is bad. The rh and re are the same inside minus Governor, vb and output shaft I believe. my rh has on cirlcle plug on the side with 3 wires for od and neutral safety switch and a plug farther up for od and lock up. I said f u computer and made it obey my every whim.

*edit i really should read all the post before I post some thing, sounds like a vb issue then.
 
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BramanteCummins said:
If you'd like, you can try out my vb. the trans is on a bench and will remain there for some time. I haven't set line pressures though so don't bend your band strut. Shoot me a text if you wanna figure something out, 978548800nine
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I've got a buddy close to me willing to do the same thing, so I'm going to try that. i appreciate the offer.

if all goes well I should be able to swap the whole VB out tomorrow and see how it all works.

another big issue I have right now, is that the trans will not downshift to 1st gear at a stop unless I wait 15-20 seconds. a few times Ive caught it trying to take off in 3rd gear. clearly that will wipe out the band in notime.

you can probably tell why I'm eager to get this POS valvebody out of my transmission.

the new VB, is the one I sold off my old RH after swapping the NV into my truck. I sent it back to Tim Barber at TRE after I took it out, and had it looked over and modified for 2nd gear lockup. i think it will be a good fit for the truck.

I'm planning to get a ratchet shifter for the truck soon, and making some kind of center consol to also run the lockup and OD switches to it. sick of manually shifting the stock column shifter.
 
Lostnwalmart said:
there is the wiring for the reverse light/neutral safety switch.... you could be tapping into that. The rh is stupid simple if you have od then you have power, only possibility is a bad ground or solenoid is bad. The rh and re are the same inside minus Governor, vb and output shaft I believe. my rh has on cirlcle plug on the side with 3 wires for od and neutral safety switch and a plug farther up for od and lock up. I said f u computer and made it obey my every whim.

*edit i really should read all the post before I post some thing, sounds like a vb issue then.
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yeah im definently not tapped into the round plug, but good point.

is the Cheetah sts shifter really the way to go for a manual style shifter?
 
ahale2772 said:
yeah im definently not tapped into the round plug, but good point.

is the Cheetah sts shifter really the way to go for a manual style shifter?
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The cheetah is awesome, no doubt. But if you cheap out like I did... get the B&M pro ratchet. It's a great shifter, and plenty of fun :)
 
Lostnwalmart said:
To put it simply I have yet to hear one owner complain about it.
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what kind of cable does it come with? is it a custom deal to get it mounted to the trans or a bolt on?

are you using the button on the handle for lockup?
 
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