big popping problem!!

Well my ad 45 psi spring will be here to to hopefully rule out that one I'll rip it apart tonight and see again
 
The timing definitely slipped. Clean the gear and pump shaft real good before installing it when you reset it. Dry em with compressed air too.
 
But it could not have slipped with it keyed. There is no possible way which is why im stumped so I'll check it tonight after work. Also I noticed this morning I have a fuel leak in the return line that bolts to the injectors, the crush washer is bubbling. But I don't think that's the problem but I could be wrong
 
If the pump gear is keyed and the gear is not the adjustable type, how do you adjust the pump timing?
 
LReiff said:
If the pump gear is keyed and the gear is not the adjustable type, how do you adjust the pump timing?
Click to expand...


You can't!


That's why I agree with others that the timing has slipped or it was never set right to begin with.
 
Sounds alot like what mine was doing. Around 2000-2200 if you floored it from there it would pop slightly then after 2200 it would clear up and pull "normal". Thought it was fuel pressure, but went from 16* to 19* and solved the problem. Seems like a timing issue to me.
 
Cause it does not matter what way the gear goes on the pump shaft casue its a equal around so you pop it off turn pop it back on
 
12VALVEADAM said:
Cause it does not matter what way the gear goes on the pump shaft casue its a equal around so you pop it off turn pop it back on
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I think we are having a slight communication problem.

What I and others' think when you said your pump gear is keyed:
A groove has been cut into the pump shaft and a half-moon shaped key had been installed in the pump shaft. One corresponding groove has been cut in pump gear. In order to install the pump gear, it has to be aligned with the custom pump shaft key. Therefore, no matter how far you turn the motor forward or back again, eventually you have to turn the motor until the pump gear groove lines up with the half-moon key on the pump shaft therefore these two components cannot move independently of eachother, which means timing cannot be changed.

Now, please help resolve the communication barrier so we can help you figure out why your truck is running like it has slipped "low timing".
 
I understand what everybody is saying. I was just told by a pump builder here in Colorado that I could just pop off the gear set the timing through the pump and pop the gear back on without a problem, that's what I went off of when I did mine. So I am guessing that this info that was told to me is wrong if all of you are saying the opposite. So I guess I can't do that? I'm getting confused real fast now lol I have done everything to my truck and this is the only thing that has me stumped
 
You said above youre return line is leaking... I would get that taken care of asap. Idk if its creating the whole problem but i guarantee that it doesn't help anything. It leaks when its idling but when its under pressure its sucking air which would make it smoke and run a little off. I understand your keyed gear... Groove in pump shaft and groove in gear. A piece of key stock to mate the two and hold it in place, its still a good idea to clean it really well and when you put the gear back on good and tight. We take mine to about 185 ft-lb.
 
to OP... can you breifly give a run down on how you performed the timing advance on your truck step by step. I'm starting to agree with everyone else and think your timing is WAY off... Also, are you using the Snap On timing set?
 
12VALVEADAM said:
I was just told by a pump builder here in Colorado that I could just pop off the gear set the timing through the pump and pop the gear back on without a problem
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Seems as though this "pump builder" neglected to mention once you set the plunger lift on the pump you needed to return the engine to TDC...
 
95-12valve said:
Seems as though this "pump builder" neglected to mention once you set the plunger lift on the pump you needed to return the engine to TDC...
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And, once you return the engine to TDC, the custom keyway will not line up.


On a normal (non-custom cut keyway) truck, the pump shaft is tapered and the pump gear is tapered, they can move independently of eachother so you can set timing wherever you want then reinstall the nut on the end of pump shaft that pulled the tapered gear into the tapered pump shaft and locks-in the timing setting.
 
I have been telling ya for two weeks Adam its the timing. We know its not an injector issue because you changed 3 sets out.
 
I don't think he has a keyed gear....he says he can put it back on any place he wants, so it can't be keyed.


You're timing slipped. If you can hammer on it, and it clears up, that's exactly how all mine have acted when the timing slipped.

Find a new pump guy...one that knows what he's doing and not blowing smoke up your butt about a keyway;)
Chris
 
It is a good idea to have the pump gear keyed, to prevent the timing from slipping. You cannot do this without having an adjustable timing gear. The only way you can change your timing is buy jumping the gear one tooth. I don't remember how many teeth are on the pump gear, but I am guessing one tooth is going to be about 6* of timing.
 
Big Blue24 said:
And, once you return the engine to TDC, the custom keyway will not line up.


On a normal (non-custom cut keyway) truck, the pump shaft is tapered and the pump gear is tapered, they can move independently of eachother so you can set timing wherever you want then reinstall the nut on the end of pump shaft that pulled the tapered gear into the tapered pump shaft and locks-in the timing setting.
Click to expand...

Exactly:thankyou2:
 
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