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What Do You Guys Think Of Using The Coils Out Of The 2wd Dodge That We Yanked The Motor Out Of?
 
If they will fit (diameter). What about using the control arms too?
 
well we got the motor/tranny mounts made up and its sitting on its own weight now. definitley gonna need some coils. the oil pan sump is about 2 1/2 inches off the ground and if you hop on the frame rails and jump up and down you can feel the pan touch the ground. its got plenty of room around back behind the motor. just gotta throw the fenders back on and see how she looks.

Joe
 

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well measured the dodge coils and they are 6" dia. soo no go on them.

Joe
 
going to need heavier then BB springs
here is a general ideal og some G-body springs
http://www.maliburacing.com/coilspring.htm

i got MOOG 5608 springs un cut with a and iron head BBC possibly upgrade to moog 5610
this is same spring with a SBC iron head the BBC (850lb) sits about 1-1.5" lower i am currently hitting stuff with the crossmember.. i have to 1" spacers that i plan on puting in on the top side of the springs... other option is to go coil overs on the front. which is $$$$$$
l_b9554f4a5739424a66f74dd184519bcc.jpg

Malibu, what do you recomend putting on this car, to be at stock height or a little higher and support the weight and have a stiffer spring rate, so every time you hit a bump it doesnt plow the oil pan?
Thanks
Joe
 
Malibu, what do you recomend putting on this car, to be at stock height or a little higher and support the weight and have a stiffer spring rate, so every time you hit a bump it doesnt plow the oil pan?
Thanks
Joe

BBC came with 2 std depth oil pans car (~6" 6-7qt cap) and 8-9" deep 8-9qt caps

the deeper came in trucks... i put a car pan in to clear the cross member.. currently my collectors are the lowest hanging item on my wagon.

the route i would go is cut the oil pan off .5-1" above the crossmeber hieght.. .. going from a truck to car app i dont see any problem with cutting 2-4qt from your capcaity... making a kick out on the bottom of the pan.. like so.
sum-121002_w.jpg

i would start out with some 5610 moog ($91.00)springs and go from there..figure out the spring ride hieght and go form there.
both the 5608 and 5610 are 420lbin springs
08s are 14.89" tall free ~ 11" is 1625lb on each corner
10s are 15.15" tall free ~ 11" is 1743lb on each corner basicly another ~220lb capcity and same hieght...
heres a plare with alot of spring options http://www.afabcorp.com/AFCO_Dynatech_USbrake/merchant.mvc?Screen=SFNT&Store_Code=A.. call and as them..
about all i can tell you right now... i have had time to pull measuerments on my wagon lately... iirc 5.9 is ~400lb then a iron head BBC
 
how hard was it to build those mounts do u think the the gm to cummins mounts at destroke would work
 
how hard was it to build those mounts do u think the the gm to cummins mounts at destroke would work
probably but it might put the motor in the wrong spot or too high, unless you drill the frame x-member. i used the factory clam shells with the energy suspension poly inserts and a gm energy suspension tranny mount.

joe
 
BBC came with 2 std depth oil pans car (~6" 6-7qt cap) and 8-9" deep 8-9qt caps

the deeper came in trucks... i put a car pan in to clear the cross member.. currently my collectors are the lowest hanging item on my wagon.

the route i would go is cut the oil pan off .5-1" above the crossmeber hieght.. .. going from a truck to car app i dont see any problem with cutting 2-4qt from your capcaity... making a kick out on the bottom of the pan.. like so.
sum-121002_w.jpg

i would start out with some 5610 moog ($91.00)springs and go from there..figure out the spring ride hieght and go form there.
both the 5608 and 5610 are 420lbin springs
08s are 14.89" tall free ~ 11" is 1625lb on each corner
10s are 15.15" tall free ~ 11" is 1743lb on each corner basicly another ~220lb capcity and same hieght...
heres a plare with alot of spring options http://www.afabcorp.com/AFCO_Dynatech_USbrake/merchant.mvc?Screen=SFNT&Store_Code=A.. call and as them..
about all i can tell you right now... i have had time to pull measuerments on my wagon lately... iirc 5.9 is ~400lb then a iron head BBC

ok so i might just go with the 5610's and i was thinking just trim about 2" off the middle of the sump and tig weld it back together. so it looks the same just not as deep.

Joe
 
ok so i might just go with the 5610's and i was thinking just trim about 2" off the middle of the sump and tig weld it back together. so it looks the same just not as deep.

Joe

dont forget your sump pick up as well... i try to keep mine with in .5-.75" of the bottom of the pan..
basicly measuer how deep your pan is from the rail (inside) then measue the pickup while on the block.. mark and trim acordingly.
 
yeah sorry forgot to mention that too.
thanks
JOe

be a good idea to replace bushing and ball joints since its out...since you are ~doubling the engine weight
mine were pretty shot! and slopy... iirc OEM is 8.8 metric i replace them with 7/16 grade 8.. most were rusted to the metal spacer inside the bushing.. :bang the rear are longer then the front as well.

i put engergy suspension bushings in mine..
 
be a good idea to replace bushing and ball joints since its out...since you are ~doubling the engine weight
mine were pretty shot! and slopy... iirc OEM is 8.8 metric i replace them with 7/16 grade 8.. most were rusted to the metal spacer inside the bushing.. :bang the rear are longer then the front as well.

i put engergy suspension bushings in mine..
hey malibu- do you think this frame will handle 500-600 hp 1200+ ft lbs of tq? this guy that my bro(turbojoe) and i are doing the conversion for wants a twin turbo setup on it now also.
 
this car is going to be off the hook:evil or i should say no hook up at all:umno:.
Joe
 
You could always just have a couple custom coils made. I dont think its that bad of a price.
 
hey malibu- do you think this frame will handle 500-600 hp 1200+ ft lbs of tq? this guy that my bro(turbojoe) and i are doing the conversion for wants a twin turbo setup on it now also.

this car is going to be off the hook:evil or i should say no hook up at all:umno:.
Joe

current setup NO!
rear end needs MAJOR work to live back there... including the frame, upper and lower trailing arms, rear axle built 9", 12bolt or D60 needs to be back there. min 33spline axles... drag raceing 35-40spiling would be ideal. 40spline your looking a dedicate spool

the center of the frame need to be boxed or you will bend it on a good hook.

one of the thing i was/am thinking about is doing a truck arm suspenion(htink 60s C10,20 pick-up and nascar rear suspion) not the greatest and most adjustable.. def can take the power... back half either lader bar or 4-link...

me i would run a truck arm and a stack out the bed. to handl the torque... stock style tri-agulate 4 link will handle into the 9s on a gasser setup. with alot of bracing and boxing.

things i would look at frame wise to stiffen it
boxing the center section, tieing rear shock towers together
replace body mount bushings with poly or allumin
6 point cage
tieing the lower forward side of the trialing arms together with a driveshaft loop.

this following pic ties the front frame horns toegther
l_afb3ff3b413c6ae951dc1ca20ae034fb.jpg




heres a hard hooking wagon http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2yAaS9XpRd8
 
i am putting a 24v in my 72 riviera. i made motor mounts out of pieces of the dodge front control arms and 1/2 inch plate to get some cushion, although i do like the mounts u made to utilize stock frame pads. i am fortunate enough to have my hood be able to close with some light trimming, sorry i cant say the same for you. i was also thinking the truck arm idea witha 9" check out www.musclemotorsports.com used nascar parts truck arms and full floating 9"housings for stupid cheap. oh and 5" coils springs in 2 different heights up to 1000lb/in check it out
 
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