Garrett 3582 - GT vs GTX?

Manifold to be a steed and will likely be internal wastegate on the 3582 (I think). Still thinking through everything and asking lots of questions!
 
I wasn't aware a 35 could be had with an internal gate, I never really looked into it as I really like the tune-ability of the external gate.
 
Well my 3782 has an internal gate so assuming the 3582 might also. But I will find out as I need to know that for ordering the manifold correctly.
 
Todd W said:
I really enjoyed the gt55 with my gt35 but I Do agree it is not what I would choose for your goals. I am currently running the gt35 with a gt4718 with the 1.39 housing. I love it, this is a great street setup for me. I also ran an wh1c (stock) over a gt42 and liked it. Favorite street set so far is the gt35 with the gt47. Just for reference I have an A/W intercooler between stages on all of the setups I have run.

The gt35 is a great street turbo. like a stocker I get boost when i give it throttle regardless of rpm, very easy to drive and never bother looking at egt gauge unless i am really on it.

I would guess if you could try them back to back you would prefer the 35 over the 37 for your goals. But would you like it enough to justify the expense and effort of selling you current turbo and buying a 35? Your call obviously, I probably would but I waste a lot of money on this stupid truck because of my curiosity.
Click to expand...

I think I am pretty much decided on the GT3582R for the secondary with at least a 40mm external gate - is that big enough? I already have a guy who wants to buy my GT3782R so that helps. My big question is will 90 horse injectors spool the 4718? I had originally planned on the 4202 as a 4718 just seems really big for a DD/tow truck? Seems like not enough fuel for such a big charger. Other question: is a GTX compressor wheel that much of a benefit on a compound setup? Would really like to run a GT wheel on the 3582 unless there is a really good reason to run a GTX wheel. The external gate around the 3582 will help control excess drive pressure? Good to go T6 on 4202 turbine inlet?
 
The 47 won't have to light right off the bat, that's the nice thing about twins. The GT3582R is the same compressor wheel you have now, with a smaller turbine so it will light sooner. The quicker the secondary lights the more air to light the primary.

The external gate will work great, better than the internal gate on your GT3782R.

You bought BBi Stage 1's right? I wouldn't go any bigger for a DD.
 
I did buy the BBi Stage 1s. Haven't installed yet as I was trying to decide if I wanted to exchange for some Stage 2s but have decided to stay with these injectors. Although visiting back and forth with Soulezoo I have decided that I will likely go with 3788 over 4508 both with GT wheels to keep drive pressure down. That should spool nicely and be plenty air on top end beyond anything I want to do with the truck. Should have me knocking on the door for 700+ and that's good for me. What cam would yall recommend for low-to-mid range power rather than just top-end?

I want this truck to just be brutal power off idle to mid-range. In my driving it's rare to see over 2800 rpm and I want the primary screaming by 2000 rpm. Is a 40mm waste gate external big enough or too big? Any thoughts on all this definitely welcome...
 
If you are going to go with a 37 then keep your turbo, same turbine and faster spool than the 88. You won't notice the difference in compressors with your use, but you will see the difference in cost.

For the best low to mid power I am guessing that Zack will recommend the 178/208, but I would email or call him. That's the cam he recommend for me and I asked if he would change the recommendation for twins and I was told no. I am looking for grunt.
 
What about the internal gate on my turbo? Can that be wired shut permanent so it does not interfere with a good external gate? What size should the EG be? I would LOVE to keep my existing for the secondary. Would help my cost a lot... Is your truck still over there at Pat's place?
 
Last edited:
I had my internal gate welded shut so I could just use the external gate when i ran the wh1c.
 
You can get a non-gated GT37 housing, and it's cheaper than a new GT37.
 
Sounds good. I was wondering if your truck still at Pat's shop so he could get measurements to use a 3782 or does he actually have to install it on a jig to do a build. In case I need to figure out a way to get to work when my truck is turbo-less (work in another place 300 miles away).
 
Mine is still there, but I think he builds them as a unit and would need your turbo (I cold be wrong). Shop for a used HE351 to run for a few weeks??
 
Your truck repairs going ok? I need to call Tom and visit with him on this secondary. I bought my 3782 from him so sure he can figure a cost effective way to re-use my turbo. Although I do have a buyer for it already if I want to go with a different turbo. I would really like to try a 3582 just to see how it would compare but will need to choose one or the other.
 
I would strongly encourage you to do the 3582 as the secondary. I have a 3782 over 4508 both GT models, and am comfortably (as far as air, smoke, and EGT are concerned) making about 900 to the wheels. Truck is an 06 with 165 nozzles. I tow a max of about 10,000 lbs. and do need to think a little about how I drive it as the turbos are somewhat big and lazy for that. I love it on the street, just playing, and if you don't mind a quick shot of smoke during spoolup, it lights quick. What I mean by this is if you floor it hard with no boost, it lights pretty good. If it is already making 15- 20, it just burys the gauge instantly when you hit it. I have a 50mm ED external gate and 2nd gen manifold, but not a steed, PDI I think, 3 piece.
My opinion, the 3582 and 4202 combo would be perfect for you. It will spool quicker, make more boost cruising, and with an external gate (tuned properly) it will not have any back pressure issues at all. Also, no need for the T6 flange on the primary, mine has a 1.28 with a T4 foot, and I can only get above 1:1 above 70 lbs. of boost.
You won't believe how easy it is to make 600 hp with that truck. And it will pull the bend out of a river!! Good luck....
 
Pull the bend out of a river! Never heard that one before... Wow 900 with a 3782/4508!
Would I be better off with the GTX wheel on the secondary (3582) or the GT wheel OK? I would prefer the GT wheel as I hear the 11-blade GTX are dead silent. So here's my final plan and check it for any suggestions: GT3582R over GT4202R. Hamilton 178/208 cam for towing and DD. 40 to 50 mm external gate on a steed. 10mm stroker CP3 from H & S or Shane. CAC from Hellmann. And I already have the BBi Stage 1s. Fleece coolant bypass have but not installed yet. Need a couple more gauges too. Also head studs / springs.

All the other stuff (entire drivetrain) has already been done. When its all finished should be an extremely strong DD/tow rig that will be a blast to drive on the street and get good mileage. Definitely appreciate the advice on the 3582 as I have really been struggling trying to figure out the final configuration for the twins. I am in line for Pat at Big Twin Diesel to build up the twin set. GT wheels on both compressors OK?
 
Last edited:
I still need to find out if the GT35 housings can fit a GT37 with machining, that would be sweet.
 
commtrd said:
...So here's my final plan and check it for any suggestions: GT3582R over GT4202R...
Click to expand...


You will regret going with the 4202R in about 6 months when you want more than 650 HP.

If you have the cash, you'll probably end up going back with a 4718 and the whole time asking why you didn't just get it to begin with.... LOL


Good luck, it's your truck and your choice.
 
Nah I think the 4202 is going to be just fine. This truck is my work truck/DD/tow rig/fishing/hunting etc. truck and it just does not get hot rodded at all. Right around 600 is where a whole lot more cash has to come out of my creaky old wallet for fuel, transmission, head work and stuff like that so I had to really sit down and say "What do I REALLY want to do with this truck"? And what I really don't need is 1000 hp. I need the power down low and relatively good fuel mileage. This truck is a truck not a hot rod.

Now someday I DO want to build up another little short-bed regular cab with a fire-breather cummins and just go all the way with that one. But there I would have minimal weight and huge hp so the speed rush will be intense and will have my tow truck to tow the little one to the track to play. Sticking to my plan with this truck...

Another thing I want (and really need to do) is take welding classes and get a shop set up so I can properly do my own fab work. My meager welding skills are really holding me back from doing what I want to do. Like I would fab up my own twin turbo piping and build drive pressure gauge isolation and and...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top