HE351VE on a 12 valve

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Waiting on the adapter plate to get here, should be tomorrow.

where'd you get your actuator?
 
Why is that not a double acting cylinder?

Im gonna try this, screw with the double acting latter. After thinking about it, this setup should work. I kept running it though my head and I dont think the double acting would work well. The next version will have one to actuate the exhaust brake.

where'd you get your actuator?

Grainger, Ill get the PN if you need it. 304 Stainless steel with a return spring.

You bough it from me, right? You should have emailed or called me, could have saved you a few bucks, I hate feEbay and their fees.

Well, Atchley bought if from you off ebay. I wasnt sure if you would sell them outside ebay and we did need it by tomorrow. Unfortunately we wont be able to get to the dyno so its back to a leisure project.

Will you be able to do one for a T4 to T4i?
 
Well, Atchley bought if from you off ebay. I wasnt sure if you would sell them outside ebay and we did need it by tomorrow. Unfortunately we wont be able to get to the dyno so its back to a leisure project.

Will you be able to do one for a T4 to T4i?

Bolt holes are too close. Would again have to be a two piece design, two pieces being 3/4" thick bolting together, for an adapter thickness again of 1.560" with gaskets.

Not practical, you could elongate the bolt holes on the T4I or T4, and the ID's are so close that you could use the T4 gasket to "gasket match" both the turbo and manifold with a die grinder.

As far as elongating the bolt holes, a 1/4" carbide endmill in a die grinder works wonders :) But wear your safety glasses for sure! And probably wear gloves so you don't get plagued with splinters.

Or if you REALLY want, or have an need, yes I can make you one.

MC
four four zero, six six seven, five nine four zero (anti spam)
 
Nah, just the T4I (VGT) to T4. I think that is what the 451 uses.

Ive got the carbide and stuff, planned on doing that to this one but it doesnt come close. LOL
 
Nah, just the T4I (VGT) to T4. I think that is what the 451 uses.

Ive got the carbide and stuff, planned on doing that to this one but it doesnt come close. LOL

VGT and T4I are different. T4 to T4I, I would just elongate the bolt holes, VGT to T4 or VGT to T4I is a little much, if the nuts or bolt heads didn't run into the turbine casting. Email me for prints if you want, can even send an overlay of all 3.

MC
 
VGT and T4I are different. T4 to T4I, I would just elongate the bolt holes, VGT to T4 or VGT to T4I is a little much, if the nuts or bolt heads didn't run into the turbine casting. Email me for prints if you want, can even send an overlay of all 3.

MC

Ok, Ill give you a shout when I get the charger in hand and know for sure what flange it is.
 
Well I guess its time to get off my butt and join in and get my vgt and get it on. One question for you guys that have had them on for a while now. You havin any issues since you got it tuned the wy you want. Sticking or any heat issues with the parts you used. And what if any changes with mpg did you get when you keep your foot out of it.
 
I have been gone on a job since november 8 and will be gone till january 15 but I got to come home for a couple days and play with my truck. I know there is a little more tuning needed but I am not a big fan of the double acting cylinder. I tried changing the boost and drive fittings around and saw a little improvement. The regulators on each port helped with tuning quite a bit, I could close off one side and just adjust the other side.

The biggest problem I am seeing with the double acting cylinder is it keeps sticking open, I would guess I am running around 20cm housing most of the time luckily I have more than enough fuel to still spool it.

Maybe with a little more time I could get it right but I have tried alot of combos and cant find a way to keep the rod moving, it keeps sticking open.
 
With a double acting cylinder you could use an internal spring to hold the vanes shut, boost to open it up and compressed air to slam it shut for the exhaust brake...
 
Well I guess its time to get off my butt and join in and get my vgt and get it on. One question for you guys that have had them on for a while now. You havin any issues since you got it tuned the wy you want. Sticking or any heat issues with the parts you used. And what if any changes with mpg did you get when you keep your foot out of it.

about the same here..
on two different thanks I got 18 mpg hand calculated taking it easy on the pedal. One with the vanes closed more than the other.
Really abusing I got 14mpg
and combined racing and cruising I got 16 mpg
this is on a 24 valve with 20" wheels

I had problems with it sticking, till I took it apArt to clean everything.
I didn't do itwhen I got it first.
 
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i havent had any problems with sticking, but i did take it apart and clean it when i got it. MPG well big defference from the edge jammer turbo, MPG was around 15, now with the vgt 19 cruzin and 16 beatin it... thats with a 6" lift and 38" tires, i have about 1k miles with this turbo now and really havent messed with it at all still set to the day i installed it...
 
cool thanks for the mpg update. just wasnt sure if man. controlling it would get the bump in mpg like the elec controlling does. (well the vary few test subjects)

so i have been racking my brain on this for a long time and i think once i get my turbo (need money) what i will do is make a bracket on the turbo and use some kind of throttle cable or clutch cable to move it. and to control the cable use some kind of a actuation cylinder with a manual boost controller wounted under the dash so while driving i can tune the truck and at crusing speed open the vanes all the way. only thing i see with this is trying to put a spring on there so if the cable brakes it will open the vanes to keep from over speeding. but if i do that then it will start with the vanes open and not closed on take off and idle. give me a few days i might be albe to figure it out or just scrape the spring. and with this too you can just reach under the dash and pull the cable to cycle the vanes for a self cleaning.

my other thought is to make my own elec controller. why use the junk factory stuff. but same basic concept of the last one with the cable and then to conrol the cable use either map, tps, or load% (which edge juice with att. can monitor dont see why you couldnt tap into it.) to supply the varying voltage to control the servo to move the cable. and with an over ride switch once flipped will move the servo to actuate the EB. this is the most simple elec controller i have come up with. and have come up with a few other ones. like a blitz sequential boost controll I-D (look them up kinda pricey but might work) i need to read more about it but looks to me that it might allready be a stand alone controller we need. it moniters the ecm and then will adjust boost or can be manually adjusted. but like i said i need to read more about it cause this might not be the case. but would be perfect. if thats how it worked. and there are many other brands out there this is just one that i had seen first. i think any kind of a elect box that when supplyed with X voltage mores X distance and when supplyed with more voltage mores farther would work perfect.

one thing i am thinking would work good for the voltage to control it would be oil pressure. i need to see if and how it varies but something as simple as and oil pressure sending unit would work as rmp and load increase so does the oil pressure. thus with the sending unit the more oil pressure the more voltage it would send to the servo or controller to move the vanes.

so i guess what i need to do is tap into or put in another sending unit and hook up my multimeter and go drive around.

so what do you think. thoughts ideas think it will work. and i belive the biggest prob they have elec controlling this turbo is useing the factory electronics. why not rip them off and make your own. and with the cable to controll it heat is no longer and issue for the electronics.

my brain hurts but i cant stop thinking about it im possessed. wish i had a turbo and manifold so i could just try stuff out and see. if anyone got one let me know.
 
dodgetrux06, lol when i first started reading about the vgt idea i had as many thoughts as u do, seems to never end, even after i mounted the turbo. lol in the end i just used a 7.3l actuator to open and close the vanes, it pulls open at about 16 psi, and i set it to close about 1/4" from being all the way closed- brake mode. the truck runs around 55mph with about 6 psi. but when u get on it and hit 16 psi u can fill the vanes open and i hit about 35 psi...
 
yeah im sure thats the way i will go. but i guess my thoughts were that at crusing speed if i could just open it all the way thus dropping boost and drive pressue down as far as i can my freeway mpg would be better. for us without and egr the advantage of the vgt is spool up but for the 6.7 its spool up and also the added drive pressue to make the egr work. so since we dont have an egr i dont need to be running 5psi of boost and the drive pressue at a steady speed. i guess thats why i want to do an incab adjustable controller either just a cheap manual boost controller or some kind of electronic one. i dont know maybe all this thinking has drove me mad and the wastegate actuator is the best way to go.

but with the wastegate actuator. and all the talk about tuning with spring and such i dont see why i cant just use my stock wastegate actuator from my 06 put stops on the turbo so it cant move past certin points and then instead of all the tuning with springs and such just use an electronic boost controller to controll the wastegate actuator. thay have them so adjustable its crazy. and can set what the boost does for each gear your in. you can adjust when it starts moving the wastegate and when it will be fully open. from what i am reading and seeing about them it pretty much can make a vgt that is manually controlled with boost or drive presure act like the vgt elec controlled like it is when its in a 6.7.

so by doing that and programing each gear i can program it so in 5th gear (or overdrive what ever you wanna call it) i can set it to keep the vanes open. i need to see since you can have it do so many things so if i do this and i kick it down it will then let the turbo vanes close to give me boost again to gain speed. and then drop back off and open the vanes.


ok another thought. when i have my cruise set when i come to a hill it closes my wastegate lets my boost climb giving more power to get up the hill. if i could find a way to just use this so at crusing speed set the cruise it opens the vanes and if more speed is required it closes them a bit gets to speed and opens them back up. and the only time i can have the vanes open for max mpg is with the cruise set. see i have lost it too many thoughts going on in my head. prob is this has been going on for like a year now.
 
yeah im sure thats the way i will go. but i guess my thoughts were that at crusing speed if i could just open it all the way thus dropping boost and drive pressue down as far as i can my freeway mpg would be better. for us without and egr the advantage of the vgt is spool up but for the 6.7 its spool up and also the added drive pressue to make the egr work. so since we dont have an egr i dont need to be running 5psi of boost and the drive pressue at a steady speed. i guess thats why i want to do an incab adjustable controller either just a cheap manual boost controller or some kind of electronic one. i dont know maybe all this thinking has drove me mad and the wastegate actuator is the best way to go.

but with the wastegate actuator. and all the talk about tuning with spring and such i dont see why i cant just use my stock wastegate actuator from my 06 put stops on the turbo so it cant move past certin points and then instead of all the tuning with springs and such just use an electronic boost controller to controll the wastegate actuator. thay have them so adjustable its crazy. and can set what the boost does for each gear your in. you can adjust when it starts moving the wastegate and when it will be fully open. from what i am reading and seeing about them it pretty much can make a vgt that is manually controlled with boost or drive presure act like the vgt elec controlled like it is when its in a 6.7.

so by doing that and programing each gear i can program it so in 5th gear (or overdrive what ever you wanna call it) i can set it to keep the vanes open. i need to see since you can have it do so many things so if i do this and i kick it down it will then let the turbo vanes close to give me boost again to gain speed. and then drop back off and open the vanes.


ok another thought. when i have my cruise set when i come to a hill it closes my wastegate lets my boost climb giving more power to get up the hill. if i could find a way to just use this so at crusing speed set the cruise it opens the vanes and if more speed is required it closes them a bit gets to speed and opens them back up. and the only time i can have the vanes open for max mpg is with the cruise set. see i have lost it too many thoughts going on in my head. prob is this has been going on for like a year now.

I guess 4 years of successfully running a He431V with manual controls on a 20mpg 500hp '98 12v 5-spd just went down the drain...:hehe:
 
lol lots of thoughts, all i know is my edge jammer was a 62-65mm housing not real sure but somewhere in their and with my current setup mpg are a lot better, even cruzin on the highway at 80mph.
 
well with all of you having good luck with yours i guess i will just keep it simple.

well the turbos are everywhere but trying to find a manifold off a 6.7 seems to be hard. so if anyone has one they will part with let me know.
 
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