HE351VE on a 12 valve

Ok, its in your company warehouse smartass. I just didnt want to type that much...


asshole
 
You guys are like old married couple, they have allways something smart to say , but they can not live withour other ....
 
dodgetrux06 said:
well with all of you having good luck with yours i guess i will just keep it simple.

well the turbos are everywhere but trying to find a manifold off a 6.7 seems to be hard. so if anyone has one they will part with let me know.
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sure the 6.7 manifold makes installation easier, but you don't want the 2nd gen exhaust sound? :poke:
 
sooter said:
sure the 6.7 manifold makes installation easier, but you don't want the 2nd gen exhaust sound? :poke:
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well if it wasnt a vgt yeah the 2nd gen sound would be nice but its just gonna go sssssssswwwwwwoooooosssshhhhhh now so why take all that time getting the down pipe, manifold, mod my air box when i can just swap in the turbo and manifold in one and bolt everything else to it. i will get the turbo on first then take the time to get a second one and throw it in the passenger seat and run a boost line to it and test out some differant ideas i have and this way i can see what it does driving down the road and not have to worry about not having a truck for work.
 
they do make some whooshing sound like a VGT duramax, but at WOT it's like a slightly muted 2nd gen sound on my truck. and in the lower rpms it's just a quiet 2nd gen exhaust sound...quieter the more it's closed up. mine whooshes around 20-25psi on my truck but goes away at higher and lower boost.

somedays i just unhook the controller and let the veins open up a bit. sounds damn good! :rockwoot:
 
Fortunately a 3rd gen manifold on a 12V or 24V doesn't make it sound like a 3rd Gen, engine rattle and sharper exhaust helps with that. Unique tone sounds good to me.
 
VMacKenzie said:
Fortunately a 3rd gen manifold on a 12V or 24V doesn't make it sound like a 3rd Gen, engine rattle and sharper exhaust helps with that. Unique tone sounds good to me.
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hmm, i was told that it does make a vp44 engine sound like stock CR out of the exhaust.


and while we're on the subject of exhaust manifolds, listen to the GDP first gen with equal length headers. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9bZyiv3KEC4&feature=related
 
VMacKenzie said:
Fortunately a 3rd gen manifold on a 12V or 24V doesn't make it sound like a 3rd Gen, engine rattle and sharper exhaust helps with that. Unique tone sounds good to me.
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I've heard from people who use the 3rd gen/Freightliner location manifolds on swap vehicles, that they definitely have more of a 3rd gen exhaust note
 
Started a new website, http://www.customfabshop.com If you guys want, I'm going to have a customer's rides section, I would be more than happy to post up your trucks. You can email me at mc_motorsports "AT" hotmail.com or customfabshop "AT" gmail.com

customfabshoplogo3.jpg
 
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You guys seams to have a VERY quick spool on this turbo setup, do i need to have a tighter converter to have the maximun benefit of this setup?
I have a heavyduty DTT single today
 
MiB said:
You guys seams to have a VERY quick spool on this turbo setup, do i need to have a tighter converter to have the maximun benefit of this setup?
I have a heavyduty DTT single today
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DTTs are notoriously tight in the first place... You should be fine, as long as it's tighter than a stock stall you should see a nice improvement. To be honest even with my slightly lower (than stock) stall Goerend converter the low end torque that my turbo builds seems to put a lot of "slip" in the TC when it's not locked. If I let it shift while locked it feels a LOT faster/stronger, just my $.02 :Cheer:
 
12VEG said:
yes please.
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4ZM06 Regulator $24.16
6W092 Air cylinder $39.15
6W171 Clevis Rod Kit $I forgot
4ZK13 Panel mount nut for regulator $0.99

The Cylinder has 1/8NPT inlet, the regulator is 1/4NPT inlets with 1/8NPT gauge ports.

You will need the clevis kit, the regulator is optional. The panel mount nut just holds the regulator to whatever you mount it too.
Regulator is brass BTW.
 
Hey guys-
I'd like to do this swap on my DD and have a few questions. I read all 26 pages but its all one big blur now haha. I'm after spool up, 37s" w/ 3.55s and too cheap to buy gears.

Has anyone tried using a 2 port waste gate actuator like
this and using a needle valve or something on the 2nd port to control bleed off of the actuator signal to avoid turbo bark? Or how about a single port actuator with a T, needle valve and check valve like some one else suggested? Would that interfere with the use of a regulator for delaying opening of the veins?

I would like to use the MCM adapter, is there a surefire manifold configuration w/ that adapter that will clear the shock tower?

I like 12Valve's configuration for the EB but have had poor luck finding a motor like that. All the small electric actuators are pricey and don't look all that stout. Anyone have a source for that kind of thing?

Thanks
 
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