Header Fab (LARGE PICS- 56K dialup users are hereby warned)

well the header was later wrapped but we never dyno'd it, it was wrapped due to the fact that I melted my radiator overflow line...lol. here is the header... now this is on a car mind you but same concept.. it was a turbo car of course..
 

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I had a large header on the truck on the dyno first 1 5/8" and long. The truck didn't respond to it very well. We lost about 100# of tourque down low, 1200-2000 rpm. Around 2800 rpm the header started to work but the engine was about done. It made the engine "peaky". The smaller header spooled the turbo qicker, drive presure was brought down to a little over 1-1. The egt was droped about 100 degrees on the short pulls. Torque stayed the same but with about 4# less boost. You'll have to excuse me for the vague terms. I don't have the data in front of and won't for anoth 5 days. The truck was an 05 cr that made just under 500 hp
NickTF said:
What do you mean by "start to react"? Good results, better spool, more hp, or a combination of the above?
Click to expand...
 
the shortest (log style) will result in the fastest spool up, you will also have the highest drive pressure (which will hurt top end), and usually hotter egt's

an individual runner manifold wont spool as fast, but will gain top end.

obviously, a turbo is a restriction. the more volume your exhaust manifold has the longer its going to take to get the turbo moving (not even considering heat loss).
 
jcj said:
I had a large header on the truck on the dyno first 1 5/8" and long. The truck didn't respond to it very well. We lost about 100# of tourque down low, 1200-2000 rpm. Around 2800 rpm the header started to work but the engine was about done. It made the engine "peaky". The smaller header spooled the turbo qicker, drive presure was brought down to a little over 1-1. The egt was droped about 100 degrees on the short pulls. Torque stayed the same but with about 4# less boost. You'll have to excuse me for the vague terms. I don't have the data in front of and won't for anoth 5 days. The truck was an 05 cr that made just under 500 hp
Click to expand...

that's good info... not everybody runs around with a data-logger!!!

thanks for the comparason numbers
 
I have it all logged, just not in front of me as I'm away from the shop. The last time I screwed with any of it was in 05. I was done as far as adding fuel to the truck. I know the header would have come to life with more fuel.
 
http://images.dieselpowermag.com/ev...challenge_trucks+cummins_diesel_wastegate.jpg

Thats the one I want to run. Also in post #45 on this thread.

http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39375&page=3

I think it would definately help improve spoolup which is what I personally am interested in.

I think if building one yourself it would be hard to justify the extra cost and complexity of an equal length. But for homebuilt one like Joefarmer and Bodie's manifold would make a noticable difference and be a lot easier for the actual fabrication.
 
I totally agree with you Muddin. Bodie and Joe's manifolds will work for the simple fact that they'll give the exhaust a direction to go. That's 80% of the battle.
 
To finalize this post, I spent the last 2 days welding the wastegate bungs and ceramic coating the header/downpipe. I've been driving the vehicle around and I don't think spoolup is much different than a stock manifold. I don't have a datalogger, so take that with a grain of salt. The sound isn't any different either.

The first time ceramic coating didn't stick to part of the manifold, I think it was too thick and cracked when it cured @ 700F. You can see the shiny ceramic on the down pipe, but then on the manifold it flakes off at bare metal. Also, the wastegate riser and dump tube were welded in today. The last picture is the 50mm Synapse 'gate with a diet coke can for comparison.
ceramic_coating_failed.jpg

ceramic_coating_failed2.jpg

synapse_wastegate.jpg


The ceramic coating without messing it up- it comes out nice after sandblasting the flaky stuff off and correct application. You can see it's white right out of the oven, then the carrier agent is polished off with steel wool.
header_fab_coating2.jpg

header_fab_coating1.jpg

header_fab_coating5.jpg


Polished ceramic downpipe
header_fab_coating4.jpg
 
Last edited:
where did you get that coating from? will this work with a normal oven or will i need something that goes hotter?
 
Brandon just uses an old traditional oven for his coatings, but you don't want to use the one in your kitchen. Your food will never taste the same.

I'll let him tell you details on the coating.

Lavon
 
yea i can find an old cheap oven on craigslist...but i didnt know if 500* was gonna be hot enough to cure this stuff.
 
Good work Brandon - please buy a TIG machine!

Pressure waves certainly do exist in any exhaust manifold, and can be taken advantage of in forced induction mills.

We send all of our hot parts to the coater for thermal barriers... using the kitchen oven is a good way to get shot by the spousal unit.
 
My kitchen oven that I use only allows 500F unless you modify it. Mine will go to 675F on my thermometer if I set it right below Broil.

I use Caswell Coatings' Cerakote Ceramic.
http://www.caswellplating.com/powder/ceramics.html

I really do want a TIG- I bought paint instead this time around. Next time it will be a TIG.
 
Good work Brandon, you have great metal fabbing skills.

I thought about build a less escotic of exhaust manifold. I thought about get a square tube and just run six manifold tubes to the square tubes. The stock manifold isn't balance and designed to be equal lenght. I think once you put a turbo on a engine, the advanages of balanced long tube headers are less important to the end result of making more HP. Why didn't you put a second turbo under? Must be that single turbo rule thingy again. :bang
 
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