Homemade or Custom cut-off intake/port and polish job.

RacinDuallie said:
Question: Why did you apply paint on the inside of the head and plenum? I'd be leery of the paint flaking off from the multitude of heat cycles......
Click to expand...

It was cleaned prior to the manifold being installed.
 
BigYellowIron said:
Here is the one I built, on my second one now.

DSC00910.jpg

DSC00912.jpg

DSC00914.jpg

DSC00945.jpg

DSC00947.jpg

DSC00916.jpg
Click to expand...
I am really liking this piece. :evil
 
Kipo...what head is that..CR, 24 or 12 valve?

I did not hit anything...but I did not go much more than 1/2" max back and tapered to round...
 
Thats a 24 valve head , does'nt matter if it a CR the same rule applys. You just don't want to take too much of that flat bottom out of the runner.
 
you made me nervous...but it is too late.

I might have a steam powered turbo now...
 
i went pretty crazy on the pockets (to improve low lift numbers) but i dont think opening up the csa would make all that much diff

BlueBikeChassisTuneUp014.jpg


verebuild08006.jpg


back cut both valves too...

whoopie!
 
Dtanklage, Do you have some better pictures of the bowls? I'd like to compare how much you took out to what I did on mine. I just had my valve jo done and had the valve back cut. Just needs some new tappets for my cam and a weekend to throw the head and cam in.
 
To bad no one builds/makes high flow stainless valves for 12v and 24v engine, with the cutback already done like the gaser have. I worry about cutting to much off and causing the valve to weaking/break during high rpm operation. How good is the metal quality of the valve?
 
thats not wheres valves break

i have never broke a valve under eight grand anyways

and these valves are either really good or its just that the motor dont turn no rpm but both high mileage heads i have had apart looked really good

you can get valves made to any specs - ur money
 
Mike Holmen said:
To bad no one builds/makes high flow stainless valves for 12v and 24v engine, with the cutback already done like the gaser have. I worry about cutting to much off and causing the valve to weaking/break during high rpm operation. How good is the metal quality of the valve?
Click to expand...

Stainless is not good for exhaust (high EGT)

Iconel is only way to go ..:kick:
 
AsTroSS said:
Stainless is not good for exhaust (high EGT)

Iconel is only way to go ..
Click to expand...

thats funny - been 4.30/175 mph with ss ex valves

6.60/205 in the quarter

lotsssssssss of nitrous

only thing wrong with stainless is that its heavy

but again, how many trucks you see spinnin 12,000 rpm?

i use trick valve train in n/a stuff that goes 14,200 but these guys running ti retainers in their street trucks are crazy if you ask me

and ti keepers even crazier

you got 60+ psi boost in a motor that dont see 5 grand - spend your hard earned money elsewhere

my .02

don
 
Rodram2002 said:
Dtanklage, Do you have some better pictures of the bowls? I'd like to compare how much you took out to what I did on mine. I just had my valve jo done and had the valve back cut. Just needs some new tappets for my cam and a weekend to throw the head and cam in.
Click to expand...


I agree.... lets see more pics

Lance
 
how are people sealing their intake plenums to the head after porting??

Im going to go with a o-ring style seal.

Anyone got pics?

Lance
 
gasket material, tapped out a gasket, and sealed with loctite 515. don't use the cheap yellow looking cork material but the dark grey colored seem to hold up a lot better.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top